Any advice for '95 Sidekick restoration?

[Nunapitchuk]

    OK, all cleaned up. Started doing some body work. It is going to be a lot as I discovered many more areas of damage during the cleaning than I had previously known about. I started a facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/SidekickRebuild...page_panel

to share my progress with any interested. I would also love to see/follow others who like to share their learning on similar projects -- the curve is steep.
I am wondering about reassembly order, like what is the easiest order to put the car back together?

[fixkick]

looks good, like shinny new nickle
id build the body first, a perfect rolling chassis, brakes working too. (leave off front parts, for easy access, and lower damage, installing engine, and
then drop in trans and engine as one.
radiator near last.
then front parts.
hood last of all.

---

saw all your images...
i last did a near same red car. was 97.
it too was $500 hulk.
mine had zero rust, blown engine, and i pressure washed it too. for max clean.
assembling a clean car, is super easy,and fun.

[Nunapitchuk]

Thanks Fixkick. So, when I finish the body work I should install; fuel system (tank & lines), then suspension system, then brake system. Leave the front bumper assembly and upper radiator supports off and, when they are ready, connect the engine, transmission, and transfer case together and install as a single unit. OK. that will be my long-range plan. So, the exhaust system will go in after or should I put the pipes in place before I attach the suspension?

I have left the wiring harness alone thinking I would just use it the way it is. Then I was thinking maybe I should rewire the whole thing with new wires. Then I started looking at the wiring diagram and all the different types of connectors that are used and decided I should just leave the wiring alone. Any thoughts on 20-year-old wiring?

[fixkick]

id do all things, that make hard jobs more easy
surely a fully fitted out body is that, leaving room for together engine/trans drop in, rad out, and front off better. as seen now.
exhaust is last, if a/t
the cat hits the transmision on a/t/
do dont know your trans.there. only engine.
the exh, last can help in all cases. is my guess. but can be tied to side with 5speed engine drop. on a/t the trans likes to jam against the CAT.
a rolling chassis. with only front and rad missing
and if a/t no front exh. sections.

id work in the body first.even workng brakes.
jacking working on a body ,sans engine,andtrans is more easy ,lighter an safer. and if 2 people , perfect , one works body,other engine-trans
what i do, is while engine is in machine shop, getting fitted out, i work body 100%

if 4wd?, last is prop shafts then lube the transfer case. after eng/trans drop

rolling chassis are easy to work,
you can stand in enging bay and do things, fix harness there,fiddle brake parts, and more.

new wire are near impossible. no connectors sold (unless each is pig tail spliced, and that be ugly.)
id inspect the stock harnesses clean and retape it.
most are good, or repair with new splices and shrink tubing
i spent a whole day under hood making all harness super good, .

make sue pins are not damaged, all. there.

[Nunapitchuk]

Thanks Fixkick, you are just so cool!

Sounds like good advice to me. My plan is coming together. Started practicing with the body filler yesterday after studying youtube videos. Will probably be doing body work for a few weeks, but have to wait for summer to do paint job. So I will finish fixing dents and then start on the suspension/axles/differentials and put the suspension back in first.

I also bought steel to make a custom front bumper and roof rack. I am going to order a winch to put on the front (mainly for looks). And a couple of super-bright accessory lights. So that stuff will take a while too. I can fit it all and then take it off for engine/transmission/transfer case installation (yes, 4 spd Aisin auto trans w/ 4WD).

I have a suspension kit that I ordered from LowRange with new springs and shocks. It is suppose to raise the body about one and a half to two inches over the stock height. I got it mainly so that it would be a little taller and easier to get in and out (don't have to scrunch down into the car) and it is suppose to have a little more "travel" that I am hoping will give a softer ride over local roads (frost heaves and bumps). I am one of the (if not the) slowest drivers in Alaska so I do not expect problems with a slightly higher center of gravity.

OK. back to work. Later.

[fixkick]

just 2cents.
not sure your goals and tools and space
but working a roiling body is easy and more safe.

forgot about frost heaves. no fun that.

good luck you and keep warm.

[Nunapitchuk]

I found this little plastic ball and cage rattling around in gas tank when I started cleaning up the tank. Can't find anything like it in my books. Do you know what it is and where it goes?

[fixkick]

the roll over
check ball
that fell off with filler neck hoses, removed,