air intake (heated vs non-heated) and IAC bypass

[kthnos]

fixkick, i also fitted that fuel pressure gauge we talked about.

news is so and so (can`t be 100% accurate right now; didn`t have the time to do the leak down test properly with a watch).
but here is the preliminary data:

-key ON once: 28-30psi
-key ON twice: 32-34psi
-pressure after 1minute (rough estimate of time): ~25psi
-pressure at idle (cold or hot its the same): ~30psi

based on the criteria on your site, these are almost acceptable numbers.

i will have to repeat the test(s) tomorrow and then hope that the fuel filter replacement (next week to be installed) will bump up the figures a bit.
what worries me is that the fuel filter was supposed to have been replaced by PO less than 1 year ago (roughly 8k kms ago).
but it looks like an unknown brand thing to me, so i ordered a Bosch. i just hate no-name and junk-name parts.
i don`t care if its just a screw or not; if it ain`t proper i want it replaced.

so, whats your opinion on the K&N AIR filter btw? is it a myth that an expensive air filter (like this one) can improve performance?

[fixkick]

good the injectors do not leak, very good.
the key on pressure is low. 36-43 is spec,
higher end is at sea-level . seem slow to build up,id suspect filter, now.
the shunt test of 55psi will show pump is robust. but that short hose at FPR to rear is very hard to pinch. and if old harder.

idle is 30-37
but when engine starts, hot, the 19"hg vacuum , causes the FPR pull pressure down about 6psi
most do 40 keyon ,then drop to 34.

for full power at WOT, you need 36psi, min, at sealevel.
old FPR can leak inside and lower pressures (wear) and stick. many this old are on death throws.'walking wounded"
we also know the check ball in pump is good now, good #2

the pump runs for 3 seconds, usually gets full pressure in one second. (ran say yesterday, not drained with new filter. might take 3 keys on. to prime it.)

the filter (air ) only with no filter at, might add 1hp at wot. but the dirt would be bad.
so all filters restrict (except the centrifugal types (huge spinning drum and motor) but media filters all restrict, on to next same micron hole sizes.
but some have deeper pleats.. and ive never checked that. but would suck more air for longer time, to make it full of dirt.. sure.
id buy the one with the most filter area... if so inclined, usually just happy for one to last 1 or 2 years and pop a new one in.

nothing wrong with a wix or any other filter, top brands,

but oil filters i like "PURE-one". with the tighter media it has.

one other trick to see fuel filter issues
is its test port, 6mm screw at filter banjo bolt, if pressure is 50psi there just key on, the filter is packed.
seen many do that. and slow pressure rise at rail too.

[kthnos]

good the injectors do not leak, very good.
the key on pressure is low. 36-43 is spec,
higher end is at sea-level . seem slow to build up,id suspect filter, now.
the shunt test of 55psi will show pump is robust. but that short hose at FPR to rear is very hard to pinch. and if old harder.

idle is 30-37
but when engine starts, hot, the 19"hg vacuum , causes the FPR pull pressure down about 6psi
most do 40 keyon ,then drop to 34.

for full power at WOT, you need 36psi, min, at sealevel.
old FPR can leak inside and lower pressures (wear) and stick. many this old are on death throws.'walking wounded"
we also know the check ball in pump is good now, good #2

the pump runs for 3 seconds, usually gets full pressure in one second. (ran say yesterday, not drained with new filter. might take 3 keys on. to prime it.)

the filter (air ) only with no filter at, might add 1hp at wot. but the dirt would be bad.
so all filters restrict (except the centrifugal types (huge spinning drum and motor) but media filters all restrict, on to next same micron hole sizes.
but some have deeper pleats.. and ive never checked that. but would suck more air for longer time, to make it full of dirt.. sure.
id buy the one with the most filter area... if so inclined, usually just happy for one to last 1 or 2 years and pop a new one in.

nothing wrong with a wix or any other filter, top brands,

but oil filters i like "PURE-one". with the tighter media it has.

one other trick to see fuel filter issues
is its test port, 6mm screw at filter banjo bolt, if pressure is 50psi there just key on, the filter is packed.
seen many do that. and slow pressure rise at rail too.

i am talking about the K&N air filter specifically (if you have any feedback/thoughts on this i meant).

just came upstairs from the garage. did a little more testing with the gauge.
initial numbers that i posted were right after the gauge installation (maybe an air pocket there?).
somehow, this is what i got now with the leak test: (double checked)

-key ON once: ~34psi
-key ON twice: ~38psi
-pressure after 1minute: ~38psi
-pressure after 10minutes: ~36psi
-pressure after 30minutes: ~30psi

i need to check idle pressures now, but its getting late so it will wait till tomorrow.
thanks again for your help fixkick!

[fixkick]

all looks good.
iv'e no idea how k/n can make such claims. More power when the stock filter exceeds the CFM flow of the engine, in this case tiny, 1.6L and huge filter.

not sure of all hype put out by K/N ,
i don't watch tv so, can't say.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

the tests here real.

[kthnos]

new data.

hot idle pressure = 28psi constant.
gunning the throttle makes 30-32psi for an instant then falls back down to ~28psi.

what gives?

[fixkick]

what altitude.
most folks below 1000 ft but no all.
like Denver, all readings are wrong there, (at first blush)

if below 1000 feet
the filter is clogged
or PFR leaks. (the 16v FPR moves everytime you move your right foot and after 20 years the insides of it get worn and can leak deep inside.)
or pump is weak?
if the shunt test passes the pump is ok.
if the filter is ok, and the shunt passes, the FPR is bad. (proven at this point)

[kthnos]

what altitude.
most folks below 1000 ft but no all.
like Denver, all readings are wrong there, (at first blush)

if below 1000 feet
the filter is clogged
or PFR leaks. (the 16v FPR moves everytime you move your right foot and after 20 years the insides of it get worn and can leak deep inside.)
or pump is weak?
if the shunt test passes the pump is ok.
if the filter is ok, and the shunt passes, the FPR is bad. (proven at this point)

i live on the beach. ie, sea level.
if the fpr leaked, why am i getting 30psi after almost 30minutes at key-on?
shunt-test? please elaborate?

[fixkick]

ok, good, im at 500 ft so we are both low, all my readings are at 500ft.

do you have this hose??
the 6mm ISO thread, fits this.

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg

a clogged fiter will read over, rail pressure. and as high as 55psi shunt pressure.
good question, the valve in the FPR can leak at different rates at different vacuums.
when you cut the key the leak rate in the FPR is at zero vacuum. (not a wear point here, its frozen here parked, unless towed to pikes peak, lol)
when you start the engine the FPR is now operating the valve in the 20 year,wear zone..(torture zone) and can be too much, leaking.
after, all only, it sets pressures as all engine loads.(load = vacuum)



my chart based on sealevel real measurements. is only complex due to the 3 vacuum gages uses world wide, HG, BAR and KPA.

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/re...-mpi-g.jpg


your key on is ok, 38psi, very good.
your
hot idle pressure = 28psi constant. (seems ok, its near 30, hot engine, idle not varying, and normal vacuum is 20 inches)
gunning the throttle makes 30-32psi for an instant then falls back down to ~28psi.

most car gunned, will hit 36 easy, but takes aggressive throttle action for 1 second WOT,
better is the usage for a hand vacuum pump, where we can get all those engine variables out of the picture.

start engine, and pull the vac line , see 36 psi. then quickly (we know yours does 38 already so skip this)
and pump fast to 20inches HC so the rich fuel don't hurt your CAT. see 30 psi
then pump it now pump up 26"inches HG ( see 21psi.)
this checks all 3 points. by hand,
if wrong normal driving check vacuum driving. and at idle.

what to watch for is inconsistency, FPR this old can be good in 1min and bad next, and repeats due to super warn out FPR , inside, or cracks in diaphram that seem to seal now then fail next, repeat.

[kthnos]

i guess i shall replace the filter with a Bosch and re-check.

perhaps dishing out 80$ for a new FPR might be inevitable.

[fixkick]

last car , i used my remote fuel pressure sender, to see if it messed up.
it didnt. but other did..
one guy on here, poor dude, someone stuck bamboo sticks it , to run huge pressures,hiding clogged injectors,

its just a common failure at 20years.
i think yours is working most the time , or all time time.
it's not dead.

your car runs good, and mpg ok.