a host of issues

[OHIOX90]

The saga continues. I am still losing coolant. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. I am not putting out a great deal of white smoke. I would imagine that it is leaking out the reservoir because sometimes it is over the full line but other times it is empty. I am adding coolant everyday. I keep the scanner hooked up so that I can keep and eye one it. It consistent runs at 174 degrease sometimes it will spike at 240 and then just go back to 174. I do not see any puddles when I park at work or overnight.
My hope is that is is not a head gasket leak, but I am afraid that is what I will find. I think on Friday I am going to buy a Leak Detector Kit (NAPA # BK 7001006) to confirm or deny unless anyone has a better idea.
Thank you

[fixkick]

the bad head gasket can water, and slowly increase until the steam out the tail become, very bad.
what about 3 blades on the water pump gone, 1 leaf and circulation is small, 240 is bad.

240 moving or parked?
yes, the leak detector is nice to have
there is one more test, (if sure RAD is good, and pump)

is in my jeep FSM. 2008. "it says no leak gage in shop, do this"
in a nut shell a very short test (dead cold block)
1: pulls fan belt to water pump pulley, pump dead
2: drain coolant to thermostat level , keep it there. below.
3: thermostat housing off and stat removed !
4: start engine, look down that STAT PIT and run engine for few minutes, Not to boiling never) look for bubbles , they will show up immediately. very cool test. not too hard either.

the rad tubes are easy to check with any IR pyro gun ($15 harbor fright) the bad tubes have same temp top and bottom 2inch down from top and 2 inches (about) up from bottom.
this is a hot engine thermostat working and top hose hot test.
this proves with no effort the tube is clogged, if no differential temps found there, about 50F drop at all times hot.
a very sexy tool it is... love this tool for RADs..

good luck to you .