a host of issues

[OHIOX90]

I have a 1996 Suzuki X90 (U.S.) with the 16 valve 1.6 liter engine.
It is running horrible.
My gas mileage has dropped by half (around 10 miles a gallon).
I noticed the the fuel pump is running all the time (not just a few seconds after the key is turned).
When I checked the spark plugs I noticed that the number 4 boot that goes down onto the spark plug has a hole in the side of it.
The brakes. Some times I have great pedal and other times it goes down so low that it will scare you.
When I drive it to work and I park I can hear the coolant in the overflow bottle bubbling.
I bought my first ever compression gauge and coder reader/scanner (MaxiScan MS509) to try and help me diagnose the problem.
I am still reading the instructions for the scanner part but the code reader gave me P-0125, P-0340, P-0300, P-1500, P-1715.

I have no idea if any of these things are related? I know I have a lot to learn but and am trying to buy the correct tools as time and money permits.
Any help to point me in the right direction for a place to start would be appreciated.
Thank you

[fixkick]

I have a 1996 Suzuki X90 (U.S.) with the 16 valve 1.6 liter engine. (what transmission? 3/4/5speed?_)
It is running horrible.
My gas mileage has dropped by half (around 10 miles a gallon). (limphome in effect, CEL glows running?) or real high fuel pressure, or leaking injectors.)

I noticed the the fuel pump is running all the time (not just a few seconds after the key is turned). that is ECU going nuts. it only runs 3 seconds, key on , only. (never heard any 96 doing this) no G16B.

When I checked the spark plugs I noticed that the number 4 boot that goes down onto the spark plug has a hole in the side of it. (new wire set)_ this will set P0304 only.
The brakes. Some times I have great pedal and other times it goes down so low that it will scare you. Master cylinder seems to be on way out. did engine rpm drop very low, as brakes acted funny, low means below 800RPM?
pedal effort or pedal distance down? did pumping the brakes , fix this fast.? that is gain a high hard pedal>?

When I drive it to work and I park I can hear the coolant in the overflow bottle bubbling. (over heating and is real)

I bought my first ever compression gauge and coder reader/scanner (MaxiScan MS509) to try and help me diagnose the problem. (a true investment, with pay back,....)
wow, a whole bunch.
I am still reading the instructions for the scanner part but the code reader gave me P-0125, P-0340, P-0300, P-1500, P-1715.
you're doing great.

I have no idea if any of these things are related? I know I have a lot to learn but and am trying to buy the correct tools as time and money permits.
Any help to point me in the right direction for a place to start would be appreciated.
Thank you

that pump stuck on is nasty symptoms...id replace the relay now, or swap it for the main relay. they are mounted on the right side of heater-A/C box.

125 engine overheated, might be, due to misfire and marginal radiator. at same time. mifires can dump extra heat to the coolant. easy.
the ECU dont lie about this the ECT sensor read way too hot..... and didnt fail the ECT test so i believe it.

300 is all cylinder random misfiring,,,, its real.
340 is CMP gone nuts, and will cause all P30x codes. 1 in 10 signals missing from CMP sets this. if CMP was dead spark ends.
340 in this case means its dropping out , or this hall sensor is not hitting on all 4 cylinder stars.
its real.

1500 starter stuck on, wow, that is rare, a bad starter or bad key switch sticking in spring loaded start position, if true the starter would explode. and make a huge noise before. This is just the KEY line, stuck high, if

1715 is tranny error. means park neutral switch failure PRNDL , means car is in park and car moves. impossible. but they detect it..

if car has a m/T transmission and a A/T ECU this will set.
or the PRNDL switch is bad, many are this old.

the fuel pump on, keyon, not started, that might be ECU in BACKUP mode, (horrid documention by SUZUKI but is real)
backup mode is 10x worse than limphome, it means the ECU is totally lost. the main processor cant compute.

id make sure i have 13.3v to 15v at all time running, no 12v power loss to ECU or DIZZy
no corroded ECU fuses (there are 3 fuses)


that 340 is critical as is overheating. i have no docs. telling me what the ECU does when overheating is detected. other than 125s, newer cars cut out cylinders to cool the engine, not this car, it might go to limphome, a wild guess. but that be wrong, as that make more heat.


340. dizzy connector loose. , dizzy bad. dizzy overheated? , or 12v dropping way low, or the ground strap to dizzy is loose.
see my bad grounds page here. for 96

you have an A/T ECU in a M/T car.
m/t car, with 71E2x or 71E3x ecu?


the overheating , can cause many odd ECU reactions.
but the ECU can go to limphome and it does throw extra heat to the water jackets and out tail pipe as the retarded timing cause fuel to burn too long
too long is more wasted heat, and radiator with a set of clogged tubes will cause overheating, just at limphome hits.
95;s are far worse in this regard. (OBD1 limphome is very big punishment)

if #1 cylinder compression is 170 or more WOT< and not at 80psi the timing belt did not slip.
you can check spark timing, more easy, if spot on, the belt did NOT Slip, a 5min test. strobe light in hand.


good luck to you and happy New year, CHEERS!

---

critical grounds.

http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html

[OHIOX90]

Thank you and Happy New Years to you as well.

I am going to just go right back down the list.
My X90 does have an automatic transmission with the original ECU.

My gas mileage has dropped by half (around 10 miles a gallon). (limphome in effect, CEL glows running?) or real high fuel pressure, or leaking injectors.)

Yes the CEL glows running.

I noticed the the fuel pump is running all the time (not just a few seconds after the key is turned). that is ECU going nuts. it only runs 3 seconds, key on , only. (never heard any 96 doing this) no G16B.

Sorry, just so I am clear when the key is in the off position the fuel pump is not running. But when the key is on you can hear the fuel pump running. If I had the key turned on for 20 seconds the fuel pump will run the entire time. You can also hear it in the fuel pressure regulator. I did swap out the fuel pump relay with the main ECU relay (10 minutes ago) and the fuel pump still runs when key is on.

When I checked the spark plugs I noticed that the number 4 boot that goes down onto the spark plug has a hole in the side of it. (new wire set)_ this will set P0304 only.

I went and bought a brand new set of plug wires and they are now installed.

The brakes. Some times I have great pedal and other times it goes down so low that it will scare you. Master cylinder seems to be on way out. did engine rpm drop very low, as brakes acted funny, low means below 800RPM?
pedal effort or pedal distance down? did pumping the brakes , fix this fast.? that is gain a high hard pedal>?

I didn't notice and drop in RPMs when I applied the brake (but I will make sure to look for this next time). The pedal distance down, very close to the floor before the brakes started to stop. But you are correct pumping the brakes brought it back to "regular pedal" for a little bit.

I did check all of the grounds on your "critical grounds" page. No signs of corrosion and all are tight.



So if I am thinking correctly brakes, starter and parking switch (are a problem) but are not related to any of the engine issues.

I am going go start it up and check to make sure i have 13.3v to 15v at all time running, no 12v power loss to ECU or DIZZy
no corroded ECU fuses (there are 3 fuses).
Then I will drive it around the block to get to operating temp and check the compression on the #1 cylinder. If it is at 170 (WOT) or about no need to check the rest? Correct?
If good then I can check the spark timing ( I have a timing light and a beat up timing cover).

Should I clear the codes now? Or just leave them be until I figure more stuff out.

Again thank you for your help.

[fixkick]

Thank you and Happy New Years to you as well.

I am going to just go right back down the list.
My X90 does have an automatic transmission with the original ECU.

My gas mileage has dropped by half (around 10 miles a gallon). (limphome in effect, CEL glows running?) or real high fuel pressure, or leaking injectors.)

Yes the CEL glows running. (sorry sure it is , DTC set.

I noticed the the fuel pump is running all the time (not just a few seconds after the key is turned). that is ECU going nuts. it only runs 3 seconds, key on , only. (never heard any 96 doing this) no G16B.

Sorry, just so I am clear when the key is in the off position the fuel pump is not running. But when the key is on you can hear the fuel pump running. If I had the key turned on for 20 seconds the fuel pump will run the entire time. You can also hear it in the fuel pressure regulator. I did swap out the fuel pump relay with the main ECU relay (10 minutes ago) and the fuel pump still runs when key is on. that is real bad, did the pump stop running with relay pulled key on
yes, ECU has gone nuts, no , the pump has been hot wired, by grimlens. a very dangerous ECU. to drrve.

When I checked the spark plugs I noticed that the number 4 boot that goes down onto the spark plug has a hole in the side of it. (new wire set)_ this will set P0304 only.

I went and bought a brand new set of plug wires and they are now installed.

The brakes. Some times I have great pedal and other times it goes down so low that it will scare you. Master cylinder seems to be on way out. did engine rpm drop very low, as brakes acted funny, low means below 800RPM?
pedal effort or pedal distance down? did pumping the brakes , fix this fast.? that is gain a high hard pedal>?

I didn't notice and drop in RPMs when I applied the brake (but I will make sure to look for this next time). The pedal distance down, very close to the floor before the brakes started to stop. But you are correct pumping the brakes brought it back to "regular pedal" for a little bit.
MC is heading south , im sure its not the booster, sounds like rear front section of MC is leaking down and only have rear brakes.

I did check all of the grounds on your "critical grounds" page. No signs of corrosion and all are tight. VG



So if I am thinking correctly brakes, starter and parking switch (are a problem) but are not related to any of the engine issues.
the parking errors to ECU will cause it to inject fuel as though not cranking. and may be weak fueling cranking on cold days.
the ecu sees you crank and works very hard to keep injection working good, as battery voltage falls....
but yours is showing parked while driving... my guess is the PRNLD switch is intermittent.

but right, these errors are not making 300s or 340s.


I am going go start it up and check to make sure i have 13.3v to 15v at all time running, no 12v power loss to ECU or DIZZy
no corroded ECU fuses (there are 3 fuses).
Then I will drive it around the block to get to operating temp and check the compression on the #1 cylinder. If it is at 170 (WOT) or about no need to check the rest? Correct? if the #1 is high that means the timing belt didnt slip, or not by much,if so.... usually it drops to 80, with belt slip....
if #1 is low then i check all 4, if all 4 low the belt has slipped. (do it wide open throttle, 75% or more.. to get bench mark readings.
check them all, my reason for #1 is its close, and if reads 80psi , in 5min test, its really good to know fast. if it reads good, i still read them all.
but belt slip is so common. if you see them all low, the ignition timing will be way off unless someone reset it to track the lies of the cam (bad)
If good then I can check the spark timing ( I have a timing light and a beat up timing cover).


Should I clear the codes now? Or just leave them be until I figure more stuff out.
yes clear them and see how many come back.
keep in find, moving parts around , on engine can trip codes, key one. the ECU does many monitors, all time key on , running or not.[/color




Again thank you for your help.

[color=#FF0000]your fuel pump scares me. never seen that ever. unless hacked.
one guy , did, one time hot wire the FP relay and burned the ECU FP relay transistor to a crisp and it shorted, and pump ran full time.
may persons do this hot wiring because of this false belief that pumps run full time. they do not. (but yes running engine and spark good)
hot wiring is very popular with some, the guy that did that used a paper clip and landed on the wrong pins. BOOM let the smoke out.


cheers.

[OHIOX90]

Good afternoon, it is a balmy 20 degrees and snowing here in Ohio. Hope you weather is better.

This morning I went out and pulled the relay for the fuel pump and left it open. I turned the key to the "on" position and the fuel pump did not turn on.

This morning I cleared all of the codes and drove it around for 20 minutes. What a difference a new set of plugs made. No lights came on while driving.

When I got back I did have to let it set for a few minutes but I did the compression test twice . After pulling the fuel pump relay, unplugging the distributor and using a shovel to hold the pedal down to WOT.
The first group of numbers are:
Cylinder #1 160
#2 155
#3 170
#4 160

Test 2
Cylinder#4 160
#3 160
#2 155
#1 165
It did run and sound better while driving around. I was looking at data on the scanner (I can see this paying off already). The data said that the temperature was 184 degrees but when I pulled pack into the garage and shut the engine off I could hear bubbling coming from the reservoir .
For the couple of dollars the fuel pump relay costs I could go ahead and replace it anyway and see what happens? But if that concerns you that it runs all the time it sure concerns me.

Thank you

[fixkick]

Good afternoon, it is a balmy 20 degrees and snowing here in Ohio. Hope you weather is better. 45F rising to 60 by Wed.....

This morning I went out and pulled the relay for the fuel pump and left it open. I turned the key to the "on" position and the fuel pump did not turn on.
ECU has gone tad nuts.hummmmmm

This morning I cleared all of the codes and drove it around for 20 minutes. What a difference a new set of plugs made. No lights came on while driving.

When I got back I did have to let it set for a few minutes but I did the compression test twice . After pulling the fuel pump relay, unplugging the distributor and using a shovel to hold the pedal down to WOT.
The first group of numbers are:
Cylinder #1 160 ALL GOOD , A RUNNER !
#2 155
#3 170
#4 160

Test 2
Cylinder#4 160
#3 160
#2 155
#1 165
It did run and sound better while driving around. I was looking at data on the scanner (I can see this paying off already). The data said that the temperature was 184 degrees but when I pulled pack into the garage and shut the engine off I could hear bubbling coming from the reservoir .
is it half full of AF? that reservior?
For the couple of dollars the fuel pump relay costs I could go ahead and replace it anyway and see what happens? But if that concerns you that it runs all the time it sure concerns me.

Thank you

bubbling, new rad cap.?
and pray. you running 50% anti freeze ? im sure you are, but must ask.


hot IDLE , parked, will the ECu hold closed loop status?
hot , running , not fast, say 40mph , flat ground, steady foot, runs closed loop? (final goal this)?


I forget if its possible to see ECU p/n sticker with out removing it. (mirror) just the last digits, 70Exxx?? suffix?)

56B will be 70Exx for you or like that. 56 is 8Valve engines. and US AT or US MT....
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/tag3.jpg

glad it sound better !!

cheers and happy new year.

[OHIOX90]

Well after a few days of "Daddy can I" and "Honey will you" I should have some time to get back into this over the weekend.

I am running the premix 50/50 coolant (new thermostat and a year old radiator cap). I do not have any excessive smoke coming out of the exhaust. No antifreeze smell and no coolant in my oil. One thing I did notice by leaving the scanner hooked up is that the coolant temperature will get up to 230 and then drop back down to the 174 range. Most of my driving is on flat ground so it usually stays around the 174 mark. When I do come to some big hills or stop and go city driving the temperature will increasing to the 230 and then back down to the 170. Which I think I should expect (seems like getting hot then thermostat opening and cooling down) it's just the temperature swing seems a little vast to me. But maybe it is right where it should be. The temperature gauge on the dash stays right in the middle the entire time.

I will get some ECU pictures this weekend.

Thank you

[fixkick]

if not frigid out, like in alaska, they block the rad with carboard, say 1/2
G16B, and 1996 intake man
ECT scans? 170to 230F? 40degrees swing. seems excessive to me. That 170 is bad, its too close to ecu , warmup/hot normal spec.
uses the thermostat that has a rubber ring that is 5mm thick (vert) and fits around the STAT and in to the 4mm ring in the base housing pit.
if not, it floats and goes quite crazy. it will surge.
my car runs 195 like a flat line.
yes, the dash gage is slow taking 5min to settle ,its a snail.

yes, im packing Xmas stuff in attic now.....and is cold. 17f this am.


make sure STAT is wax down, bleed front, (uphill) and rubber ring intact.



yours must look like stat on the right.

[OHIOX90]

I will get a new rubber ring for the thermostat and replace it and make sure it is facing the correct way (I am pretty sure it is). When I bought the last thermostat the parts guy wanted to sell me a paper gasket. I knew better so I reused the rubber one. I see they offer 2 thermostats a 180 and a 195, i got the 180.

Our high today is 13 and a chance for a little more snow to go with the 4"s we got yesterday.

[fixkick]

yes the old 92 has both types , 92 is transition year. paper to plastic is my lil joke...
the old one must be good or it would leak. ring gasket.
must be too cold out,or fan clutch stuck on,

---

im not sure but below 10F , maybe cardboard, added to front of radiator.... the guys in Montana do that all time, even mack trucks, hell the new macks have built in front variable grill louvers
50% blocking.