90 tracker woes.

[jonmr1]

Just finished water pump, timing set, oil pump, reman head and all the small supporting items. Plus keyway repair and new bolt.
Installed all per the kick fix site ( sorry, old habits)
So, nipple on cam gear at 12 crank cog as well.
Dizzy at 11.
Prime oil pump,
Using test fuel.
Only get fire from tb.
Will not crank...obviously.

Triple checked the timing.
Did the coarse dizzy adjustment .


90 tracker stock 8v.
Quality parts. No bull****

Help

Edit* ran before taken apart due to needing water pump and fix oil leaks from foolish po or ppo

[fixkick]

Just finished water pump, timing set, oil pump, reman head and all the small supporting items. Plus keyway repair and new bolt.
Installed all per the kick fix site ( sorry, old habits) it's my site, you are very welcome to use it.
So, nipple on cam gear at 12 crank cog as well. (crank 12pm, cam at 12PM is fire #4)
Dizzy at 11. Dizzy at 11 and cam cog titty spoke at 6pm , not 12. , 1,3,4,2 CW dizzy rotation.
Prime oil pump,
Using test fuel.
Only get fire from tb. ( a reverse flame thrower, sorry could not resist, it will run, for sure, so dont worry.)
Will not crank...obviously. (if compression is over 150 cold the crank and cam are timed, if that is ok, the just dizzy now)

Triple checked the timing.
Did the coarse dizzy adjustment .


90 tracker stock 8v.
Quality parts. No bull****


elaboration, if cam is timed.
dizzy timing.
crank at TDC 0 mark (scale)
cam titty 6pm down. See my sneak a peak page, for how. easy.
dizzy at 11 , and wired 1,3,4,3 clock wise.
lash loose on #1


good luck to you, hope you get 28mph all day.
Help

Edit* ran before taken apart due to needing water pump and fix oil leaks from foolish po or ppo, (i feel that pain, sorry)

[jonmr1]

So if the nipple is at 12 and the crank at 12 should I insert dizzy on cylinder 4 tower?
Or pull dizzy rotate crank one time ( crank at 12 and nipple at 6) and reinsert with rotor pointing at #1 tower?


Thanks

[jonmr1]

Rock on! Got it to fire!
Valves noisy. Gonna have to go back and recheck that.

[jonmr1]

Now purring like a kitten with a little throttle, but doesn't want to idle. Dbl checking vacuum lines now, but have yet to notice anything.

[fixkick]

cool.... 90s ,
hot? idles too slow?
the TBI screw at throttle plate base sets hot idle.

[jonmr1]

Haven't ran up to full operating temp yet. The rpms rise as normal when cold. ( at least other track kicks I've had do)
And as the rpms start to decrease it doesn't stop at an idle range. Just putters till dead

[jonmr1]

Found water leak on back of head passenger side.
Between gasket and block.
Used felpro gasket and new mahle head bolts.
Followed proper torque sequence and torqued to 55 I believe.
Do I first retorque? Or pull head and get another gasket?
How about just putting some kseal in it.

Almost fed up.

[fixkick]

when you take a head off or expose the deck of any block the 1st test, besides the magic gasoline test to combustion chamber is...

1: head warp test, per the FSM , the mech. steel rule, (flat) and edge down cross wise. feeler gauge in hand, max .002 warp
then same way and same rule, the deck.
the gasket can fail if the deck or head are warped.

i can link the fsm page online for all that. but is SOP all engines.
the rule of thumb is .001" warp per foot. so .002 is on the high side.
keep in mind the bolts get tighter hot , so the head torque is only the starting value, , do not over torque any head.

you car correct the idle works same 89 to 95 on all 8v
the only diff, is the method of setting idle. the 89/90 the Throttle body has no idle bleed screw.

so you mess with the idle stop then the idle switch fails (out of calibr.) you fix that then repeat it all again, again and pull hair out.
that is why they added the bleed, to stop balding suz, mechs. world wide.
it can be real hard, if you have vacuum leaks, near impossible.
one guy here you could block the air horn and motor would run. he told me that was normal. so we gave up.
but you have too little air so is a horse of different color.
low idle on 89, cold is this.
1: IAC not open (TB base air valve dead closed and dead)
2: iSC dead, and or TPS switch stuck open and idle controls are inactive in that state (a lie to the ecu makes ECU mess up)
3: the dash pot must open keyon then retract after 3 to 30sec cold started, if it get stuck retracted, idle will no race at start up.
4: someone closed the TB idle stop screw, or unscrewed it radially.

this assumes spark timing is right. as timing dictates idle speed big time. (retarded = low, too advances too fast)