'96 Sport 1.8 DOHC Clanking Valves

[rasmeidirtrider]

Hi, my Sport has clanked its valves during acceleration from stoplight. I can hear them clearly from inside the car. One of my friends recommended me to do the engine flush before an oil change which I always use 10W30 of any brands. Has anyone tried this: http://www.voltronic-germany.com/e20-engine-flush.html[/img]
Is it dangerous? Any suggestion is appreciated.
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'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS, in stock.

[fixkick]

that is a 1.8L DOHC with HLA, Lifters they usually only click at first stratus, or if oil pressure is low.
it not put in any additive to oil. vast type, who knows what's in it, and the flush is usually just kerosene.
if oil has been super dirty, over 5k miles, then id replace it twice, do it now, then at 3k. see if fresh top quality oil can not clean the HLA'S?
i ask my self what can i do to the top end with out putting mains, and rod bearings at risk.
if it is HLA, noise, and not a bad chain tensioner? Then the HLA gummed up. Most that are , are R&R fix out , apart cleaned, recharged with oil and back in. (big job)
or its pinging, under load. (EGR dead + lean mixtures) i dont think its ping. (knock or detonation)
ive never seen HLA make noise under acceleration. (as hot oil fills them with max pressure, how could they, this condition, is best, why make noise then>) i think its not.
i dont think its ping.
the 1.8 has a knock sensor, and usually prevents all ping , it corrects it long before the humans can hear it.

Is the oil fresh?
is the CEL on , key on, then goes out running?
Scan it, are there zero DTC's stored and running? some DTCS dont glow the CEL, in some countries, so best scan it, regularly.

I think you hear the chain talking, does it make wild noises at cold startup
also it has a hydraulic chain tensioner that the piston inside can leak more , hot, and cause it to fail hot. in fact adding that engine flush will make this worse, (bad idea that)
is the accel, noise there cold?

finding a noise , that only happens moving, is the hardest of all.
got over 200k miles on that chain?

[rasmeidirtrider]

Thanks for your reply.
I totally agree with you technically. However, this Sport was imported as a used car into the country.
We have never known the previous owners has run the right engine oil and proper viscosity for this car and it is almost 20 years old and the result of that is the engine is full carbon deposit, oil sludge, dirt and breakdown particles. All of these have affected the engine performance. If we ever want to keep it running as long as possible, we need to find ways to remove all of these in order to improve the engine performance.
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'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, in stock.

[fixkick]

engine flushes can dangerously lower viscosity and cause you to spin a rod bearing. I'd never use it.
noise of any kind is bad, in any machine, abnormal.
many engine flush kits (bottles) are just kerosene or Stoddard solvents (the MSDS clearly states this in any case)
some old guys, use diesel oil. (or ATF) you wont find any tests labs, testing the effectiveness of any. most are too savvy not to risk a still good engine.

one ploy safe, is to change oil every 500 miles , and pray for the noise to stop. 3 times.
if that fails , find the true source, chain, guides (i bet all those) and bad varnished up HLA. (lifters)

ive cleaned many and HLA and had to take them out and use very powerful solvents to get them fully clean, no in the oil engine cleaner in the world, uses this nasty solvents.
MEK, Acetone and others, used in a can with HLA inside does.

the old GUNK BOP used to clean them overnight , in a can. but EPA banned that cleaner and the new cleaner is junk. same with berrymens. (ive used all 3, even old Bendix cleaner in 60s.

[rasmeidirtrider]

Dear Fixkick,
By the time you advised me, I already did flush my engine with that bottle! I poured in through the engine oil filler. Start the engine for 25 minutes and rev up two or three times during these periods of time. Then, drain out the contaminated oil and replace with the new oil and also new filter. The problem solved!! No more valve rattle during acceleration from stoplights, it accelerates harder now. However, there is one consequence to this action. Valve cover gasket starts leaking, it is still small! May be sealant would be the answer!
Thanks,
__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, in stock.

[rasmeidirtrider]

Dear Fixkick,
By the time you advised me, I already did flush my engine with that bottle! I poured in through the engine oil filler. Start the engine for 25 minutes and rev up two or three times during these periods of time. Then, drain out the contaminated oil and replace with the new oil and also new filter. The problem solved!! No more valve rattle during acceleration from stoplights, it accelerates harder now. However, there is one consequence to this action. Valve cover gasket starts leaking, it is still small! May be sealant would be the answer!
Thanks,
__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, in stock.

[fixkick]

it's ok , just dont drive up a mountain, with that in the pan.
Great work !
sure. and i hope it holds, with freq, oil changes now, it can..... for sure,
and yes, ive used it, in a panic. (desperation is real and can happen)
sure sealant. or better new gasket ,if old.
I had a old ford v8 and it would foul the HLA lifters every month and the flush worked. for a about 1 month. (uncles car , he gave up)
finally hands up, off came the intake and behold the exh, heat riser in the intake had a bad gasket , it was dumping raw exhaust into the oil.
it looked like Volcano lava from there in to the engine. BINGO. real cause found, and then soaked the HLA for 2 days in acetone, or MEK. (pristine)

in your case, it could just be bad maintenance or engine has huge bypass gases, (pcv bad or was bad) or running rich for years, fouling the oil fast. (or all this)

im so glad for you, getting it quiet.....!!!