95 tracker timing

[fixkick]

i use this tool
ccw then cw
and the difference is true TDC, this finds errors no matter what is wrong,
the flexistarw (drink) or the screwdriver, trick is inaccurate. for try TDC, but works for course sure.
if the screwdriver binds in the hole, on the piston top fly cute, the spark threads are damage, thus using drinking straw is better)
IMO, always.

only the tall one fits the spark well good. TDC finder. true.

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC-ISSUES...9-TOOL.jpg


so if the keys (keyways) and belt are ok,
and TDC is wrong, (not saying it is) then this tool finds bad pulley rubber (unbonded) deep inside has slipped and the pulley marks are NOW LIES.
see it, like 3 times, me and 2 others here.
caused we think by setting the alternator belt so tight, with 100lbs of force?. (or AC)

me, i never ever discount things, I let facts (evidence) tell me or point me in the correct direction
first was compression, but its good so my guess is engine is just rich, why?
is the code 12s flashing?????? you never inserted the diagnostic jumper yet? why skip test 1. ????

all i know here is that you spun the dizzy idling, and discovered it runs better timed wrong.

this test proves nothing !, all cars do that. for sure cold for sure rich.

learn please that the static spark is set there (5) so the engine can crank and not back fire (piston reversal) overloading the battery and starter, a fact.
then it starts, and runs 5BTDC+ ECU dynamics, but bounces by ECU actions
now the ECU is not going to advance it for max RPM is it, for 1 reason, smog, if it advances too far it pings and NOX gasses go to illegal states, and you hole pistons,.
Why are you advancing to 30, I can not understand yet why you even do that.? sorry just never seen anyone ever do that on any engine.


step one is cel lamp, and the jumper.
we do that first. after all why ignore the ECU screaming DEAD SENSORS to you .

but forget all that, you will blame me for being teacher.

REDUX 1:
so got 12s, that is my only thing to check today. just 1, and not done yet.

i guess.

[fixkick]

the tool ONLY SAVES labor.
it means you done not need to pull the lower cog off the crank snout to see if the key is not wrecked.
that is all it does, or proves the key is bad or the pulley internal rubber is wrecked, 1 or the other.
if it shows good,
then we can forget timing issues. and what, fix rich AFR.

[caseyvr6]

So, attached are pics of what I found, and after it's cleaned up. I'm red loctite(ing?) newly cut keystock into place (lined up on TDC for cyl1) as we speak. Late tomorrow morning I'll reassemble, with a sparing touch of loctite on the crank spindle. I am wondering, because different diagrams show it either way, if that guide washer for the timing belt actually belongs on the inside (against the engine) or outside (closest to the radiator)?

   

   

[fixkick]

ouch sorry it happened to you !!!!!
bad super bad, and bet the cog insides worse.
(im sure others caused this ,it inherited)

here are the parts list #

see my list here, under "All the parts you need to fix " a table here.
the cog wheel only suzuki sells.


http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/index.html

[caseyvr6]

ouch sorry it happened to you !!!!!
bad super bad, and bet the cog insides worse.

The cog was pretty good, a quick wire brush and 550 hand sanding to remove some superficial rust and that's good to go. I'll try to snap a few pics for the archive.