Samurai IACV cleaning

[Tico]

I have six more pictures that I cannot upload. My point is I took apart my 92 Samurai EFI and even took apart the IACV to clean cause it was full of gunk. I cleaned it all and screwed it back in. My question is did I do something wrong by fully taking the IACV apart? I screwed it back in till the screw felt tight but not too tight, after all, it is soft metal.

Your thoughts? Thanks.

[Tico]

I have six more pictures that I cannot upload. My point is I took apart my 92 Samurai EFI and even took apart the IACV to clean cause it was full of gunk. I cleaned it all and screwed it back in. My question is did I do something wrong by fully taking the IACV apart? I screwed it back in till the screw felt tight but not too tight, after all, it is soft metal.

Your thoughts? Thanks.

[fixkick]

i guess photo 1 is after unscrewing the calibration ring,
you can see the wax pellet deep inside, that can not be removed. (I think) Ive never tried for fear of wrecking the pellet.
if you did take it all apart you;d see it works just like wax pellet thermostat, in all ways but the physical lay out is different. (water to air , instead of water to water)
all you can do now, is tune in in a pan of 150F hot water, there is no other magic here, and then pray the wax is not dead or now grossly NON Linear.

[Tico]

I unscrewed the calibration ring in order to fully take apart,yes. How do you calibrate now?

[fixkick]

ok, calibration was done once in the factory
they would use hot water to do that,
in your case a pan of 150F water, heated to reach this critical temp.
the turn said ring, to the KISSING point of the coin to ring, just blocking off air flow.

then (used condtion, in this case) test it in ICE water next to see if it opens the correct amount just as my photo shows, I did -10F and 40F and 150F. I tested it at 3 points, to see it if is working and is it linear.
or dead.
if you set the 150F point, and find out it does not open at -10F full that means its dead if is dead, or way the hell off due to aging of the WAX pellet inside, as ALL DO old.
all thermostat (most) die at 7 year mark for this SAME aging effect.

no wax pellet lasts forever, not one.. sorry

this IAC is bad or water does not flow throught by any means., on cars coolant paths can packup in junk ,rust or grime or bad coolant or wrong gaskets.(or packed up inside the IAC itself)
that is why I wanted to test the IAC first and not wreck the factory calibration. I test all that first. if the ICA is just off a bit , re calibrate can work.

Its ok, the thing is old best is having a spare TB , and ECU, 2 parts to have spares just for days like this.

[Tico]

OK, get a pan of hot water to at least 150 degrees and then just gently lower the TBI into the hot water and see if the plunger moves? If not then I may have bottomed out right? If I have bottomed out then I have to back off ring a hair at a time whole in hot water? Just trying to figure this all out...thanks.

Oh and this is a spare and am negotiating another just in case. People go to high sometimes on Samurai EFI parts

[fixkick]

I guess you never seen how the cars water coolant thermostat works,
the wax pellet , they use wax because it expands greatly with heat and is long lasting , 7 years is spec, life on cheap thermostats.
the IAC here works just the same. way. only AIR flow is the controlling path.

one can do 2 check.
put the tb in say 2 " of water, say in a frying pan.
on a camp stove outside, if wife looks angry in her kitchen..
I insert the wifes cooking thermometer in the water, and raise the temp to 150f exactly
then turn your now loose ring until the VALVE cone piston just kisses this ring. this is now calibrated. once calibrated and happy, use loctited to lock the ring down.
next I let the TB cool. and then put it in my refrigerator (wife shopping now)
and I see my refer is at 40F (milk temp perfect) (mine has pro meter device inside there, sold in all kitchen stores) and the gaps is now. at 0.040" (40 thousands of an inch, I use number drills 1-60 the #60 drill shank is it. near #60 size (about)
if the IAC does not open near that distances at 40F degrees the IAC wax pellet is dead. and there is no fix for it. known. a spare TB is the fix.


this photo is studied shows how the wax works look again.
again here is the calibration test points. see this photo i did all the hard work here,Suzuki has zero here.

OK, get a pan of hot water to at least 150 degrees and then just gently lower the TBI into the hot water and see if the plunger moves?
If not then I may have bottomed out right? If I have bottomed out then I have to back off ring a hair at a time whole in hot water? Just trying to figure this all out...thanks.

Oh and this is a spare and am negotiating another just in case. People go to high sometimes on Samurai EFI parts

[fixkick]

finding old parts that still work is never easy.
its old. most are dead now, this part.
the number of times the car was started and run to full temperature , is what kills this.
the thermal stress and cycling.
27 years old, the cycle count can be 10,000 cycles time 2, cool to hot and back to cold.
no thermostat made ran this distance.
but wish you look finding 27year old parts that work, ( me , id make one from scratch and stand alone, vacuum device programmed with my Arduino CPU)\
seems nobody has but the Megasquirt guys but is way too expensive for this.
Id use a jeep IAC and program it to work here 1992 jeep IAC, and Stepper motor controller and Arduino , $100 in parts and some easy programming.