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2001 Chevy Tracker J20A Engine Issues
#11
I had buddy, that when the AIr cleaner packed solid and car would not run
all he did was stab the Air cleaner, with screwdriver until the engine started.
PO's are very unpredictable.
compression:
the head bolts cause the COLD cylinders to be not round. (we have great photos of that)
and is bored/honed with fake head torque plate in the engine factory for perfectly round cylinders HOT.
this is why we test engine hot or warm for spec pressure. (its a bench mark this)
The engines are very consistent at sea level. for PSI. Same engine! model. (as the case may be G16 , J18,J20, j23, etc.)
cold testing is ok for finding timing belts or chains jumped. but for ring wear, hot /warm is the spec,
130PSI smacks of gross cylinder wall scoring to me. on all 4 jugs, and also smacks of gross abuse giving all 4 are bad. (if 130 is real as it sure seems).
IMO ! all this. good luck to you.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#12
I tried on a cold start to swing the plate with the Allen bolt held by the Philips screw, did not change anything.  Although when leaving work tonight 25 degrees outside, I live in Iowa, with a 8 hour cold soak, it reved to 1500 but started to idle down much faster.  So the ISC as you call it was carboned up.  The compression issue, oh well, throw some more restore in it, worked last time, the dry compression was even worse before, like 90 and 80 psi.  The heater issue, I will pull the dash in the spring and replace the heater core and evaporator.  After removing both cabin air filters the heater is doing better, I believe that both cores are clogged and not letting enough airflow through.  I get a pieces of foam coming out the vents at times, I think that the sealing foam has come apart and has impeded the air flow through the cores.  Thank you for all your help.

This is not a VVT engine, and has a new timing chain, set it to the marks from your pages I believe.  If there is anything I can help with let me know.
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#13
NO VVT.

bad compression gauge or bad engine,
one is $18 other is $2000 up.
use the compression gauge in your lawn mower, see 80PSI, (the engine there is very low compression RATIO. so is have your J20)
or melted cat, the cats can melt and only fix there is the broom stick trick, (bashing it to bets from rear end port, muff dropped.)
I good mechanic always never trusts his tools (gauges) we test them even shop air I can hit 175psi and test my tool. got shop air?
the engine is an air pump.
to do a compression test right, you need a good gauge,
no melted cat. (guts)
and throttle blocked open say 1/2 or better, the more open it is the less stress to the starter and battery you get, and more RPM see that? (and is spec, this test is a bench mark)
cranking RPM is 300 not 100. rpm must be normal with spark plugs removed, all 4 out, so RPM hits normal (starter not bad too no weak battery on last leg...,)

Heater, on Kicks, I never tore my 2004 tracker part but sidekicks for sure 89-98.
if the scan tool shows about 203F then sure the flow in the heater core is weak heater core (water) or fan path is blocked, many cars like this pack up in leaves or mice nests.
did you look in the front cowl first, look at those below front windshield. cowl vents, see that chamber there, on mine the chamber was 100% blocked and packed in leaves.

the chamber has water vents to top of fenders in mine, and that keeps the chamber from going in to a LAKE and if the lake goes full the water goes down this coffer dam in the chamber
this coffer dam is just pipe that stands high in there. and seen mice pack this full of junk. (and the silly filters on trackers, sure and hard to find for many , heater filter)
The dampers must have full range. end to end, from the blue ,red heat knob/ lever.
The damper blocks the core, or fully opens,
the Recirc damper, must be closed, or you take 200f water powered air, and add 25F to that and bingo weak heater, but the scan tool tests are first, on cars, always.

that is it on track/kicks.

SOME 2004 CARS THE heater has nasty ELECTRIC motor driven dampers, 2001, not sure. but one eyeball under dash see 3 or 4 cables, bingo cable drive, some have 1/2 aND 1/2 HERE.
The vitara real had them first.
my 2004 tracker had no electric motor drive dampers.

AS SEEN ON MY BAD HEATER PAGE. HERE.

https://fixkick.com/AirCond/heater.html


pulling the core is never easy,, see this great set of photos from a contributor.

https://fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/heate...index.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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#14
the dead links you see are to FSM , ( URL moving targets)
not right year but gives one the idea how it is done and now hard it is, yes hard.

see post one on our forum to find where the maker moved them again, and again.

https://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/...p?tid=1940

New location, and some pages missing but shown above, too.
section 1A
https://www.acksfaq.com/HTML/trackerfsm.htm
http://www.fixkick.com
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#15
I tried to flush the coolant by draining and filling up with water every 2 weeks once it got warm.  This made the heater core start leaking, I hooked the lines together and ordered parts.  The picture it the goo that was in the heater core.  Stop leak.  I tried to cut open the heater core but I crushed it when i cut it.  Did find the goo in the tanks tho.  I am in the process of reassembly and can give you better results when done.  The evaporator core was leaking also.  The clutch fan was bad and that fixed the a/c. The heater core was plugged internally and that is why when i turned the blower to high the temp would drop.  Thank you again for all your help.


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#16
see the cheater page on heater core out>?
here
yah stop leaks is nasty crap. good if far far from home, sure. emergencies happen.

photos not by me but Mr Lord G..


step 1 is the truck (cut here) LoL  , saves  a ton of work

https://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/h...index.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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