1998 speedometer

[justinstagl]

First I would like to say hello to everyone! I just bought a 1998 Chevy Tracker 4d 2wd auto(4 spd), and i really like it, but I have been having some problems with it. The speedometer has an issue where it reads 35-40 MPH at a standstill(turned off or running) and goes up from there. It also bounces constantly while driving. The tach and odometer work fine.

Additionally, my engine is running rough and sometimes dies when I come to a stop. My CEL is either burned out or disconnected(does not light up when I turn the key on), and I have not taken it anywhere to get the(likely) OBD codes read.

Aside from getting the codes read, what would be the best course of action?

From everything I have read on this site(outstanding source of information BTW) my tracker has an electronic VSS(vehicle speed sensor) attached at the transmission, and therefore should not have a mechanical speedo cable, correct? So the bouncing speedo couldn't be a symptom of a cable wearing out right? What would cause the bouncing speedo, and the high reading at a stop? Also, would the speedometer malfunction also cause the engine to run badly? Your input would be greatly appreciated!

[fixkick]

speedo (the clock bushings) bad, it cant be fixed inside, need to find a working, old one. (ebay) ask for help matching numbers.
its misifiring, it may need tune up or just egr main, valve is sticking open. (located behind intake manifold rear runner.
any scan tool made can scan this suzuki, even those ebay $9 ones.
the CEL is probably removed or painted black by devils

the vss is just a reed switch in the speedo head, and if the odometer works , so does it.
but the scan tool will tell you , its bad. any way,.

the cable snapped will not cause the needle to stick high, its magnetically coupled, and always returns to zero. so long as the bushing
on said needle are not wrecked. check out the odometer next run, its is key check.


no, the VSS just helps you get full power up hills and at full speed.

misfire is bad combustion.
lots of causes for that.
but scan it, if say, you have P0301, then #1 cylinder is misfiring.
you really need to scan it, the CEL lamp is mostly a cutesy thing, scanning shows all errors, even those not turning on CEL.
i pay it no mind at all unless it comes on.
misfiring is daunting
over 50 ways and more counting bad engine parts.
1: never tuned up.? full via the 60k list?
2: egr stuck. (or sticks at ever stop sign)?
3: one guy this week had a leaking FPregulator. fuel pressure, at the rail. it was leaking gas to the vacuum dry side, and worse, dead)

i always start (new old car to barn) with a compression test. to see just how viable the engine is. 170psi+ wide open throttle.

http://www.fixkick.com/misfiring.html

id fix speedo last, some just buy a GPS speedo and plant it somewhere. or run and APP called speedo on their smart phone.


speedo
see that copper cub
it has a shaft and both sides he bushing fails and it flops around then jams in the end. its free floating mag, coupling.
if the cable spins so must that mag ring and the odometer. (odometer is key factor in diagnosis)

[justinstagl]

I took the car to get scanned at autozone and it threw two codes, P0102 (MAF sensor) and P0135 (O2 sensors). On the printout for the MAF sensor it also says that a cracked throttle body intake tube can cause this issue. I looked, and found a problem there, I also took off the MAF, and found what look suspiciously like a burned out resistor or possibly fuse. Pictures below.

This is the crack.
   

This is zoomed out w/ cracked section circled
   

This is the burned out looking resistor/fuse on MAF sensor.
   

Would the crack shown cause a problem? And does the resistor look burned out to you guys? Input is greatly appreciated!

[fixkick]

the crack is easy to fix , with glue or RTV,, that small, crack can cause lean mixture, but not so lean, as to kill maf readings.


the MAF resistor there, is perfect. ( that black color is ceramic glazing,, a very high quality part it is)
best is to test the maf with voltmeter, my maf page covers this 100%
102 means the maf is dead. (STUCK LOW)

clear all DTCs and run car, see if it comes back..
if its unplugged running, it will store 102.
135 is heater burned out on front 02 , seems they all are, not serviced, very very common.

MY MAF PAGE
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
if the maf is dead, the ecu enters fail safe mode and runs like crap, ecu using a very crude simulator for maf, real.
maf output pin, to meter and meter minus lead to engine metal , Gray/black WIRE IS OUTPUT ON MAF, CENTER PIN 2
key on, 1.0

[justinstagl]

Sorry for the long wait, but here is an update. I followed the troubleshooting steps on the repair pages of fixkick and narrowed it down to the MAF sensor. I ordered/received/installed it from rockauto, and it works great. The tracker was running great. The speedometer reading 40 MPH when stopped was my next target.
So I took out the gauge cluster and brought it inside(its cold outside!). I then went to remove the speedo needle with a fork, but accidentally bumped it, and it moved back and stayed there. So i decided to just move it all the way back to zero and re install it. After reinstalling it and hooking everything back up(cluster/airbags/battery) the tracker is now idling high(1500 RPM in N/Park and 1000-1100 in D/R) and seems to be wanting to shift at higher RPMs than normal(2500-3000 instead of 2000-2500). It seems to me that I have likely de-calibrated my speedo, and would need a speedo shop to fix it. Am I correct, or is there something I can do to possibly correct this? I have tried putting the speedo back to its original 41 MPH at a stop speed, and that didn't seem to do anything. Any advice? Your input would be greatly appreciated!

[fixkick]

Sorry for the long wait, but here is an update. I followed the troubleshooting steps on the repair pages of fixkick and narrowed it down to the MAF sensor. I ordered/received/installed it from rockauto, and it works great. The tracker was running great.
The speedometer reading 40 MPH when stopped was my next target.
So I took out the gauge cluster and brought it inside(its cold outside!).
I then went to remove the speedo needle with a fork, but accidentally bumped it, and it moved back and stayed there.
So i decided to just move it all the way back to zero and re install it. this is the one thing not to do, take off needle ,its now way off calibration.

After reinstalling it and hooking everything back up(cluster/airbags/battery) the tracker is now idling high(1500 RPM in N/Park and 1000-1100 in D/R)
and seems to be wanting to shift at higher RPMs than normal(2500-3000 instead of 2000-2500).
r 4speed.
It seems to me that I have likely de-calibrated my speedo, yes, but that dont change vss ever.
the needle calibration has nothing at all to do with the transmission.

and would need a speedo shop to fix it. no, called many , even in LA.calif. they dont do suzuki's a very rare car,


Am I correct, or is there something I can do to possibly correct this? I have tried putting the speedo back to its original 41 MPH at a stop speed, and that didn't seem to do anything. Any advice? Your input would be greatly appreciated!

the only thing the ECU or TCM (4speed) does is watch, VSS, and vss is just a read switch that clicks 1 time per cable turn.
the needle and the whole mag cup can be removed, and the ECU will run perfectly and so will the TcM.
ill read your old post now to see what car this is.

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only one way to cause vss to go slow
just one, a broken speedo cable.
this car is 4speed, and does shift by clicks of vss
if the needle bearings jam and then the cup tilts, then the cup jams the main drive, it my be possible for the cable to snap
or the lower 2 plastic trans tailshaft gears to slip or as on one cable the bottom end of cable has key, this key is crimped to the end and slips
look at my photo again. all the parts from front cup out can be missing. and vss will work 100% perfectly after all its attached to the main drive

just this part clicks, nothing else,, its a mag, reed switch
the cable spins and vss clicks, the vss is direct drive, off cable, the cable can also have a bad top end , that is stripped at tip of cable, causing it to slip.

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i find used speedo's on ebay,
the bottom sticker number must match
or the rear connect pattern and pin counts match
the internal meter is used on may years, are same.
do not buy one ,with no rear view, and promise photo is real not stock photo.