1994 Tracker won't start after checking compression

[ddbernier]

I removed the crankshaft bolt, gear and woodruff key. Yes, the keyway looks the same before I used the Loctite repair method.

   

I followed the instructions to repair it using Loctite. I'll give it another try since I have another new gear and keyway (I bought two sets just in case). At least this is better than spun bearings.

[fixkick]

that is in the 100% bad, rating
worst of worst.
the cog most fit tight, not wobble, if not , its hopeless.
the rear of the cog face, must butt hard and flat to that back stop. seems that part of crank face, looks ok.
thee key must be at TDC, as the bolt tightens, the key does NOTHING after the bolt is at spec. torque.
then when tight,bolt do a TRUE TDC test, if fails repeat. if not it's a RUNNER.

that is a very bad crank snout.

[ddbernier]

Finally, I got a chance to get back to the car once receiving the parts I ordered. I tried to rebuild the crank with Loctite 660, but the Loctite 660 would not cure even without the lack of air over 5 days. I had to use the Loctite Epoxy Weld, which worked fine. I reassembled the engine with a new crank gear and crankshaft bolt (torqued at 94 ft-lbs). Note the new bolt from GM was about 1/8" longer than the original bolt. The compression on the cold cylinders were ~140psi on average. Much better than before. I also replaced the power steering pump. You may be wondering why would I replace the power steering pump, well, it was leaking and felt like it was locking up and didn't want to chance another problem. I also changed the oil, it was black, but no sign of any antifreeze (see previous post). Once the car was back together, it started right up and ran fine. The timing was spot on and the idle was ~830rpm. The compression on the warm cylinders was ~175psi on average. Looks like we're good to go.

Thanks for the persistence on the timing.

[fixkick]

same here, too cold and OLD stock !,, they sell and accelerator option liquid tube. that worked. the 660 needs no air at all to cure, zero air. (oxygen zero)
i warpped min with tons of duct tape, for 2 days.. it finally set.
the harder loctite's work too. 300f temp ones. are very good. but 660 has the spec.(shear) once planted , timed and cured, it should stay like that forever.

great 175! very good.

its not easy to fix a crank tip that bad, so you get a big BRAVO on that job.
it will hold there, now, forever. at 94ft/lbs. and will last for life of crank seal, may be life of engine.
good news!!!

[zukitrek]

Is always good too read these stories of success. Of course Fixkick great help and guidance gives us the extra knowledge to tackle the job!!

Congrats to you ddbenrnier!!

[fixkick]

my methods are just what the Loctite engineer recommended, he posts to many other car forums and cured the same problems on my other engines.
one is the 1.8L early Mazda, (short snout mazda's are a pain)
but thread locker is for very thin layers, its weaker when used think layered.
the 660 is opposite it is structurally rated. (thick) that is the only reason he picked it, i think.
but must be starved of all oxygen to cure.
but have seen may cranks with keys set in red loctite. happy as a little clam.