1994 Tracker won't start after checking compression

[ddbernier]

Hello, I am new to this site and have found the responses very helpful, however I have not found a similar response to my problem.

I have a 1994 GEO tracker, 1.6L, 8v. The rear brake cylinders blew, the battery mount was bad, and it was running rough where there was not much power until it warmed up for 10-15 minutes. I pulled it into the garage on Saturday repaired the brakes and battery mount then checked the compression on each cylinder by:

1. Disconnecting the wire from the coil to the distributor
2. Removing a spark plug one at a time
3. Connecting the compression tester
4. Cranking the engine until the needle stabilized
5. Replace the spark plug and continuing from steps 2-4 until all the cylinders were checked.

The range was 105-110psi for all cylinders.

When I replaced the coil cable and tried to start the engine, it did not start. I have been trouble shooting by:

1. Verifying the firing order of the spark plug wires - correct as 1-3-4-2.
2. Connecting an inductive timing light to each wire and cranking the engine - light strobes for each wire.
3. Checked for fuel by removing the return line and verified it was pumping out.
4. Replaced each spark plug with a new spark plug.
5. Tested each fuse by the battery and found them to be operational.
6. Inspected the distributor cap and rotor, the cap has a white residue that I removed, the rotor cap looks worn.

The auto part store was closed by the time I got to the distributor cap and rotor and I will get a replacement tomorrow. It appears that the coil is giving a spark from the strobe light check. However, upon reading more from the threads, it looks like I need to connect a spark plug directly to the coil wire and check for a blue spark which I will do tomorrow.

Tomorrow:
1. New cap and rotor
2. Check spark with spark plug

I would like some input into other items that might have caused this issue. It had no problems starting and running until Friday and after checking the compression, it is not running.

Dan

[fixkick]

[quote='ddbernier' pid='2994' dateline='1416200481']
Hello, I am new to this site and have found the responses very helpful, however I have not found a similar response to my problem.

I have a 1994 GEO tracker, 1.6L, 8v.
1. Disconnecting the wire from the coil to the distributor
2. Removing a spark plug one at a time
3. Connecting the compression tester
you skipped a step8?, wide open throttle block open the throttle, so it can breath air.
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
4. Cranking the engine until the needle stabilized.
5. Replace the spark plug and continuing from steps 2-4 until all the cylinders were checked.

The range was 105-110psi for all cylinders. (clear sign the timing belt threw, its a 60,000 mile service)

looking at spark will be useless, as its now way off. (belt slip) do not change spark timing.

spec is: (factory
The 8v is 170 PSI. warm or hot
cold will be over 150.

if not?, the belt has slipped so do the sneak a peek? check>?

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html

[ddbernier]

Thanks for the fast response. My son purchased this vehicle in the summer and it has about 160,000miles on it. I'll check tonight and follow-up so others can see the results. We also have a '92 tracker my other son drives, so I better check the compression and timing belt too.

[fixkick]

they last 60k.
some times if very lucky and using a Gates brand belt, it can go 100k
some states (PR of Calif) mandate 90k (despite laws of physics or reality) There are racing belts that can go farther but are very expensive.

usually the belt slips
and the cam (and spark) retard. and usually is 90PSI , until it gets worse.
but it wont bend the valves over.
good luck !

[ddbernier]

I waited for the weather to get warmer and continued working on the Tracker.

I went out and tried to start it again, it started and seemed to run fine, however I still wanted to check the timing belt and replace the drive belts while I was working on the car.

Once I got the timing belt cover off there was a slight tear in the belt, but the cam and crank were aligned when #4 was TDC. I replaced the timing belt (Gates brand) and tensioner following the guide at www.fixkick.com (http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt-index.html) and reassembled the car. I was going to replace the distributor cap and rotor, but the parts place gave me the wrong parts.

The car started. I let it warm up, but was not able to set the timing following the guide at www.fixkick.com (http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/index.html). Any ideas?

[fixkick]

I waited for the weather to get warmer and continued working on the Tracker.

I went out and tried to start it again, it started and seemed to run fine, however I still wanted to check the timing belt and replace the drive belts while I was working on the car.

Once I got the timing belt cover off there was a slight tear in the belt, but the cam and crank were aligned when #4 was TDC. I replaced the timing belt (Gates brand) and tensioner following the guide at www.fixkick.com
and reassembled the car.
I was going to replace the distributor cap and rotor, but the parts place gave me the wrong parts.
sure they cant tell 8v or 16v, none can. (your car is a vin code U, that means 8v)

The car started.
I let it warm up, but was not able to set the timing following the guide at . Any ideas?

the correct URL (there are links in the page showing all details and are not in my paste below.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-procedure.html

8v.
pasted from above page.

Fast, fine adjustment list:
1: A Hot motor (180f degr. minimum) running at idle.
2: Connect Strobe timing light to #1 spark lead
3: Idle at 800 RPM (if not set it now) (TB idle bleed screw)
4: Set the Freeze jumper. (a paper clip) conn. just in front of the battery.
At, Jumper D to C to freeze timing.
Check timing?, now, at 800 RPM idle.
5: Point that Strobe light at the timing scale and see it at, or adjust it to, 8 Degree's Before TDC (left side of zero scale mark) (see your hood sticker or exact timing)
if just tad off (1deg?) then adjust distributor base, if way off ? then the timing belt has slipped, if true, do not touch the distributor yet, fix belt first..
The 60k tune up is the avoidance of belt slips.

If way off?. do the Tbelt sneak-a-peek check.

---

at what step did it go astray?
#4

---

the strobe must flash.
it must land on the timing scale.
and it must freeze, if it fails to freeze , but jumps around, let me know.

the ECU will not freeze spark timing for many reasons. ( one is TPS idle switch set wrong)

[ddbernier]

I will check later today, but the car does not have a tachometer and I can't find the connection to attach a hand held tachometer. I have looked over fixkick.com and other sites, but nothing is as clear where to connect it. The last cars I have done major work on were a '76 Trans-Am, '79 CJ-7, and '88 Shelby Daytona and they had a connection on the distributor for the tachometer. I guess they changed things after '88.

[fixkick]

oh boy,its a tach less car. I use a hand optical tach, that works on all machines, any rotating device.
yes the tach is missing but the harness has brown wire, on my 91 , i added a cluster with tacho and it ran .
the brown wire at the fire wall spark arrestor, is the test point for tacho.
btw , most electrical tachometers, fail on most cars. due to NO standards. that is why i use a opto.
there are timing lights with a built in tacho. (set cylinder count first)
this is because the tacho lines vary in signals, there are like 100 unique ignition systems in use, no 2 the same,
the FSM does cover this but as you know, the tools are not sold , from that book they are suzuki dealer tools, non are sold , nor the duty cycle set tool.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg
see ECU pin A1, tacho, that goes to ECU, Cruise control and to dash tacho, this drawing is SIMPLE type, only covers engine ops.


new link
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/index.html#tachmeters

[ddbernier]

I ordered and received the hand-held tach from Amazon. After setting the freeze and adjusting the rpms, the timing is all over the place and not consistent. I decided to disassemble down to the timing belt again (I also had to replace the cover because the previous owners cut the bottom off.)

I removed the crank cog and looked at the keyway, looks very similar to (http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/images/damage1.jpg) with a lot of free play in the crank cog and crank, which is most likely why the engine does not run properly. I will follow the repair instructions using Loctite 660 and replace the crank cog since it looks worn too.

[fixkick]

the loose 17mm bolt deal. so many have that.

the 660 is very strong, and they sell a fast cure , to make it more easy to use.
also others have used the super strong regular loctite THREADockers. coded

code RED 271
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t...ed-271.htm

the 660 is rated structural, and is, but the above can work.
it only has to hold TDC long enough to attain, 94ft/lbs on the 17mm bolt. the key is not there to hold it ,after you tighten it up.
what is important is having a new bolt (acts as a spring)
and a cog that is not beat to death (inside or rear side) as so many are.