1994 tracker at 8v 4x4 50000 mi intermittent stall

[TC2]

My 1994 tracker at 8v 4x4 50000 mi is intermittently stalling. I finally got it where it would crank with the test jumper in and got a code 42. It did start on test fuel and died when that ran out. It runs great sometimes for a 1/2 hr and sometimes 5 min. I have not had it die on me cold. Does this year have known issues with the Hall effect sensor? Is it plug and play or do you have to set gaps? Do you have to pull the dizzy to replace it. Thanks in advance!
TC

[fixkick]

42
cmp drops out. that is for real. and ECU cuts fuel at that moment (as would spark) double HIT, stall.
they never fail, but connections do. never heard of any CMP failing, ever. (tons of wild wishes of others but proof. )

no gaps to set , only way to get one is whole dizzy.
are the grounds good ,for all this.
put dizzy and crank at #1 firing for easy dizzy swap.. and mark distr, base after rotor aligned to #1 spark wire.
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html

G105 on down. first table. is your car and the critical grounds for ECU and spark.
g402 is pump ground and loves to fail on all 2 doors. but is not this case.






nice work seeing it mess up on the FLY !!!

[TC2]

Thanks, I will check the connectors and grounds tomorrow for sure. I am so hoping this gets her working good again and thanks again on the price of a dizzy! It's been about 15 deg out and not a lot of fun. Maybe 40 tomorrow I will post the results.
TC

[fixkick]

besides used.
rebuilt.

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-...g%3a%3a%3a

31-25401


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...ttype=7108
i think cardone has best price.

and may be found local too.

[TC2]

I cleaned all grounds. I checked all connections. Finally, as the Guru said it would be I found the dizzy connector if slightly wiggled left and right the motor would die. Up and down made no change. Looking at the female side (wire) side of the plug I found the insert cracked allowing the female side of the pins to move causing the cmp loss. I was able to duplicate it over and over with just the slightest movement. I will have to find a replacement used or otherwise and solder it in the harness. Thank You so much fix-kick! You saved me so much headache not to mention the cost of a distributor. You sir are the Lao Tzu of the Tracker Samuri world.
Thanks again,
TC

[fixkick]

ah yes, one other guy here found that, its odd huh, you'd think that connector would be life time lasting. it is well made
yes, there are ways to fix that. just needs a connector.

my guess is it got hit, at a head pull.
pure random failure.
all the best to you !!!

[f1501999]

same type of problem started for about 5 minutes then quit my mancinc says timing belt slipped but this morning i tried it again and ran for about 30 seconds really rough running then died will not start again,it is 1994 geo tracker with 208,000 1.6 8 v plus what the heck the dizzy is ?

[fixkick]

sorry distributor.
if the spark timing is, (discovered) way off, the belt (cam) did slip.
i hope you didnt just turn the distrib, or you just hid the problem from each finding.
that and compression like 80 not 150PSI. x4 (classic case, above is 3 min job, if not disturbed)
then my(our) sneak a peek

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html

or the crank bolt is found loose. is it, the 17mm not at 94ft./lbs but found at 0 or 10,, or way below 50?

[f1501999]

sorry distributor.
if the spark timing is, (discovered) way off, the belt (cam) did slip.
i hope you didnt just turn the distrib, or you just hid the problem from each finding.
that and compression like 80 not 150PSI. x4 (classic case, above is 3 min job, if not disturbed)
then my(our) sneak a peek

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html

or the crank bolt is found loose. is it, the 17mm not at 94ft./lbs but found at 0 or 10,, or way below 50?

all i know that it is turned all the way to the back and been that way since i had it, been running ok until about a week ago

[fixkick]

"it is turned"

what did, sorry

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this OP posts, ares for bad distributor, the connector on side went , bad.
stalls can be cause by 50 things,, (most are in the engine. but we use physics and simple tests to find them.)

stalls : (hot and cold engine, or just hot>?)
cant save it with right foot?
misfire stalls, do to running old spark parts over 30k or 60k miles?
dash went dead just before stall (loss of 12 vdc power ) see gauges drop?
can be loss of fuel pressure if the stall is a hot right foot (preventions) and it bogs gently and stalls. (fuel pressure does that, by dropping)
got 2 doors?
drive with Diagnostic jumper inserted and 12 codes flashing and it stalls and shows 41, or code 42 (like poster did) bingo. its real , a real fail.
if engine is misfiring and engine shacks hard as it stalls, bad spark?
also the EGR loves to stick open as you roll to a stop light, but a fast foot saves it , but is tad hard, takes a deeper foot to save.
EGR bad. (USA Code DTC 51s)

if engine has general lack of power all the time.
compression low? not 150PSI W.O.T?
crank bolt loose up front.?>
timing of cam off
spark timing way off?
8v loves to run, the map loves all air leaks and just make tons of power, with more air leaks, run run run it can.
16v is far more tricky. and 3 more injectors.
the fuel filter need to be changed out or it melts the pump from overloading it.

stalls;
ISC sticking closed can stall it.
flooding can do that, as can leaking injectors or one that clogs.

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on old cars i do, compression, first. x4
the idle vacuum 19"HG at idle. and must be steady vacuum (and the cat melted test ,)
then check spark timing if way off, the cam slipped, if some one played, blind dizzy spinning games. then the evidence is lost. (oops a daisy)
then i make sure the EGR is defeated and closed, i clean it and close it and remove its hose and clog hose, JUST to prove, its not that messing up. put back later.
EGR is ok, it cools the head valves, (exh) nice.
i then do the TSB for the crank, as never seen one done right yet,
http://www.fixkick.com/All-Pdfs/TSB/89-96crank-bolt.pdf

actually done the first hour of ownership if real savvy. (persons hating wrecked crank ends)

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drive with the DLC jumper inserted.
jump B to C
and drive. with 12 flashing,,,,,,, endless it should be.... until, STALL !
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html