1993 Sidekick JX CEL issues

[fixkick]

cool..... bad id not cool but discovery is,,,, nice work.!!!
another ruby bites the dust..

that cap must not be dry, if its dry, the ecu goes nuts. in fact, totally unpredictable. (the regulator will drop out )
as the electronics instructor says, "never troubleshoot noise" fix it.

it if there is no acid damage, it will run good.
see no damage, i think you are very lucky.
nice looking board.

yes, some caps leak the acid slow and it just evaporates.
on some the blow through the top or side, then blow black carbon (smoke) on the lid, looks, BBQ black. (looks like candle smoke)
others just puke raw acid to the PCB, this is not good.

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this is 95 16ecu , i traced, those chips are custom and not documented on earth. Mitsubishi hybrid chips (SIPS)

here it it is. IC7 will not be happy,at all, seeing the full raw noise of the cars 12vdc system here. Brutal it is, relay noise,A/C clutch noise. injector hash noise, endless.

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the good news, its a $1 fix..... for top brand Japan made caps. no junk is only a buck.
105C rated
at a whole 23 cents.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nich...dcJx4%2feG

[brocklanders]

Dang!!!! Still have the dreaded code 53, should I assume the ECU needs replaced now?

[brocklanders]

Dang!!!! Still have the dreaded code 53, should I assume the ECU needs replaced now?

Side note; Replaced the caps re installed the ecu and when I first turned the key on the CEL flashed randomly no real codes just weird flashes. When I first bought the kick the power steering pump wire was pulled off of the connector so I plugged it back in and made it run worse. Last night I unplugged it and it improved but idles high now ( 1200 rpm) I drove it today and it was less sluggish but still not right. The EGR vacuum line was unplugged on one side as well, plugged it back in but didnt affect anything. Any advise is appreciated.

[fixkick]

the PS wire is fast idle. if the switch is bad, it will race 200 rpm higher hot from 800 to 1000, just like the A/C fast idle does.

this switch has but one purpose,. when you overload, the P/s pump, (curb shots, end of travel are 2) SO the engine dont stall .
weird flashing is, ECU crashing, the power supply reg, is bad. or ??? more bad caps. >??or acid damage.

EGR vacuum line will suck air, and that makes for lean idle.(normal) and other off idle issues, vacuum leaks are all bad to any 16v MPI engine, it a lie the MAF< the air meter dont see leaks, so it cant mix fuel right, goes lean. (if it fools closed loop) there is no closed loop in limphome mode, (failsafe)
the ECU is sick, (fed ecu in a fed car, in a fed harness) sick.

i'd not own any kick with out 1 spare, ecu@ 50-100 bucks used, many of the parts inside, ARE not MADE NOW... so...... its all on borrowed time....
my guess is there is acid damage, but i can't see it , it might be there. the acid can run under parts and cause hidden damage to copper traces.

it's for sure in limphome mode, that's why things are odd. or killler backup mode.
the ecu will be rich (unlike normal) and any air leaks cause racing, Unlike normal , rpm drops with leaks. see? everything is backwards in that mode. failsafe.

the switch should be open.
see page 6 here, see those words, closed in high pressure, (that means overloaded), so the switch is bad, or the failsafe mode , does odd things, with P/s?
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...racker.pdf
or the ISC opening up , in overload, fools failsafe. or? but all that is not an issue, now. 53s is end of road.
i never troubleshoot failsafe, if the engine dont do 12s and run in closed loop at idle, i fix those first. baring any thing else.

i say the ECU is toast. based on it's the correct ECU in car.
it's shame really that SUZUKI never exploited all 99 DTC codes. fully, the calif error should never been 53s, piggy backing off of memory corruption 53s. but they did. ( but we sorted that)


53s are like windows 98' BSOD's the blue screen of death.
same deal. a crash.

to bad no DTC code 99 for backup mode!
and code 54 for Calif bs failure code.
or a code for , like code 55, ecu not in closed loop for like a week, d'oah says Simpson..!!!
my guess, the SUZ engineer says today, THIS THING STILL RUNS????????

but IT IS, what it IS.

[brocklanders]

Should I source a reman or buy used? I have read where you recommend A1 Cardone for remans but where would you recommend the cheapest place to purchase from? I am running out of money I never had LOL!!!!

[fixkick]

i just find them used on ebay, there are like 100 venders there with rebuilts but there are used ones too.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=ECU...i&_sacat=0

[brocklanders]

Ordered a Reman from Ebay should get here on Wednesday. I will keep you posted on how it behaves with the new ECU. Keeping the old one in case of massive failure in the future since it still runs even if poorly. If you know of anyone who could go through this one and repair it let me know and in the future I will have it done just for back-up. Thanks for all of the help!!!!!

[fixkick]

i do , he is listed on ebay as digitalman. ill send link to him.
later
he has flat fee, like 75 bucks and no 1995s is his rules.

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http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...2531.l4585

mandigital

here is his , listing/.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMURAI-SIDEKICK...7d&vxp=mtr

inflation, 20 cents. lol.

[brocklanders]

Damn! Installed reman ecu and still pulling a code 53. It actually seemed to go through the warm up cycle and could be running better but havnt drove it yet. Either way pulled the dome fuse and let it sit for a while and turned the key on and it flashed a twelve but as soon as I started it it flashed 53.

[fixkick]

that is a FED, ECU
so its missing those 2 wires at the EGR main sensor?
or there is a missing wire for a ground on the ECU, the ECUs' some have this extra ground pin
that tells the ECU its either CAL or fed.
the 3 causes (12vdc at ECU at all times, never 10v)
are:
1: corrupted memory, (seems not)
2: EGR sensor missing. B17
3: that dang ground wire on some ECU's , missing or cut. B14

its marked ground, only and is stealthy, it really (fed/cal select)

check these pins, on ecu for missing or damage

does B17 at ecu have a wire??? is it there at all ? or damaged.? or depopulated at B14?

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg


the first calif 16v was 1992 and suffixed with 58B10. your ecu is 100% federal. MT, 1992/1993,

58b30 is listed as. fed ecu.

the thermopobe EGR is listed only for calif 92/93 and 94/95(cal and fed)

i wonder if the FED ECU looks for a calif thermoprobe at boot and if seen throws 53, ive only seen the calif do that trick.
make sure the B17 wire pin on ecu id depulated.

the EPC, (cat) shows that only harness #1 (engine) is unique for calif. than fed, this would be the probe, i guess.
that is why im curious about B16 wire from eCU the rear of engine.

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are you 100% sure this is not a hood sticker CALIF car?
100% , B17 is 2nd proof.. if wired it is calif.
the 92 and 93 cars all had calif as an option. with
new ecu and new, harness to match it.

ive never tried fooling with the useless CAL pins on any FED ecu, not me... so...
Your ECU is listed FED E03.
E33 is calif.

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if this doesn't find it then we get to look at all pins on ecu and my FSM pinout map

seen here.
page 1
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/95ecu1w.jpg

page 2
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/95ecu2w.jpg


unplug 02 sensor , see if 53s go away/
check voltage at B14 and b15, 0volts and at B17 no wire there , if present why is calif harness in FED body?

b15 is ground sense and a short this wire might cause 53's 0volt is good,