1991 geo tracker doesn't usually start in colder weather.

[fixkick]

are you cheating?,let me explain.
where is the meter negative lead, when testing
answer connected to the pump wire. minus.
not to the car body or it lies to you.
the tank is still on the ground.
so put the meter on the pump 1 wire connections, 12vdc will be there. (both meter leads on the 2 pump leads at the pump)
if the pump is dead, 12vdc will be on the pump.
trust the meter,

the pumps hot wire goes to the fuel pump relay.
the pumps neg lead goes to ground. and both wires can fail. (means wires and every connector on both lines can and do fail.)
the motor is a 4 amp load, if there is resistance in the line it will fail.
with only 3 ohms resistance in the 2 lines, (power feed) the pump runs at 1/2 speed
with 6 ohms 1/3rd speed.(4vdc at pump)
as you can see it dont take much bad resistance in the lines to make any pump fail.

[fixkick]

one guy on the forum put the pump on the rack then forgot to connect the pump wires. at pump. (distractions from his wife or kids will do that)
use the meter across the pump, 2 leads there.
if 12vdc is across the pump and it is dead, the pump is bad. (rare that on new pumps) but do smack it one time to maybe get the brushes inside to make connections.

[wildfire]

Thanks fixkick;
Not being too multimeter savvy, I guess I misunderstood the meter test, by having the neg ground give me a false reading as to the voltage of my wires and connectors. Once I did the crossover test between the +pos and -neg at the pump wires and then the connector, it showed little to no voltage. So I attached an alligator clip and wire from the neg ground behind the taillight to the neg pump terminal, and voila the pump buzzed once the key was turned on. Since this problem was intermittent over the years, it was a hard one to catch. I haven't tried the full pump test with gasoline yet, but knowing I get it to buzz is satisfying. Glad you were there to assist me.

[fixkick]

veryt good !!

Thanks fixkick;
Not being too multimeter savvy, I guess I misunderstood the meter test, by having the neg ground give me a false reading as to the voltage of my wires and connectors.
for the first test do not put the meter black test head to the cars body ground,. or the test is no good.
so below you did the test right and there is no voltage to the pump.
i guess next you hot wired the ground wire to the pump, and the pump runs
so now you know the ground to the the pump is bad.
test 2 would be: there are in fact 3 test to find the causes all..
all tests key on tests 3 seconds or cranked.
if you had then used the meter with negative blacK to the body metal ground or to battery minus lug and then red meter lead to the pump NET lug you would have measured 12vdc on the pump , showing the ground wire has and open circuit, (12vdc voltage drop on any wire in the car is an open wire) this shows ground is bad using a meter.
test 3 is meter black to ground, and red meter to HOT Plus wire terminal , youd have seen 12vdc , to the pump, even if the pump is dead. (no spin)
This test failing means the pump Plug power wire is open .
the three test prove what is wrong.
the 4th test most dont do , is walk the meter lead back on the failing wire to see the POINT OF FAILURE< most time the connector. or the ground lug in the left rear tail lamp is bad,(2door)


most times this works, if you know which wire is open.

if you then visually inspected every inch of that ground you will find the open point in the wire, and sure its intermittent, most wires this old are,and 10x that on those crap junk suzuki connectors that do not really work wet and are.
today the connectors are way better. 29 year old wring is never good. Suzuki never planned on the car lasting over 10 .
best is just replace the wire, ground, or ground the pump minus terminal any why you can.
Some folks just run all new wire pair from ECU relay to pump. (and use 18gage wire this time ,)



Once I did the crossover test between the +pos and -neg at the pump wires and then the connector, it showed little to no voltage. (BINGO)

So I attached an alligator clip and wire from the neg ground behind the taillight to the neg pump terminal, and voila the pump buzzed once the key was turned on.

Since this problem was intermittent over the years, it was a hard one to catch.
I haven't tried the full pump test with gasoline yet, but knowing I get it to buzz is satisfying.
Glad you were there to assist me.

[fixkick]

off my ddm page

your car failed this, on the pump wire,
any wire can fail this, and connectors are top of the list, every time on any 29year old car.
reading 12vdc here, the wire is dead open, and open circuit. (corrosion at terms or wire broken inside the insulation where one can not see) ( the object that fails must be turned on to do the test, in your case 3seconds key or cranked.




http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/DMM.html