16v Oil venturi in Cylinder Head

[Peter Wood]

Good Morning,

In the process of re-assembling the head and noticed that I don't have an oil venturi plug!  (Not sure if I lost it or it wasn't there)   I've found a place to buy unless anyone has a quick and easy solution?

Is the venturi supposed to be flush with the head surface, or protrude a little through the gasket or... what?

Many thanks for help.

[fixkick]

Good Morning,

In the process of re-assembling the head and noticed that I don't have an oil venturi plug!  (Not sure if I lost it or it wasn't there)   I've found a place to buy unless anyone has a quick and easy solution?

Is the venturi supposed to be flush with the head surface, or protrude a little through the gasket or... what?

Many thanks for help.

yes must be there
no it is not on the surface at all it is hex key (allen) orifice plug , just tiny hole in the screw. '

it has 1 purpose,
if the cam shaft breaks in half (or anything you imagine)  this ORIFICE prevent starvation and the robbing of RODS and main bearings, and only head damaged and not total engine destruction.. BEST I KNOW.
not only that but the head leaks lost of oil on purpose to keep valve stems lubed and rocker lubed too. so must be controlled.

0.050? orifice,  50 thou. metric hex allen (CCW out , CW in , right hand threaded)
use a bright light and look in the hold , see it ?  it will not fall out.


it is not a venturi, just clean cylinder hole, not shaped like a real venturi. (hour glass shape no)

good luck with that head
sorry for late,  host  was down I guess.

[Peter Wood]

Good Morning,

In the process of re-assembling the head and noticed that I don't have an oil venturi plug!  (Not sure if I lost it or it wasn't there)   I've found a place to buy unless anyone has a quick and easy solution?

Is the venturi supposed to be flush with the head surface, or protrude a little through the gasket or... what?

Many thanks for help.

yes must be there
no it is not on the surface at all it is hex key (allen) orifice plug , just tiny hole in the screw. '

it has 1 purpose,
if the cam shaft breaks in half (or anything you imagine)  this ORIFICE prevent starvation and the robbing  of RODS and  main bearings, and only head damaged and not total engine destruction.. BEST I KNOW.
not only that but the head leaks lost of oil on purpose to keep valve stems lubed and rocker lubed too. so must be controlled.

0.050? orifice,  50 thou. metric hex allen (CCW out , CW in , right hand threaded)
use a bright light and look in the hold , see it ?  it will not fall out.


it is not a venturi, just clean cylinder hole, not shaped like a real venturi. (hour glass shape no)

good luck with that head
sorry for late,  host  was down I guess.



Thanks for the advice.

On further inspection, there IS something down that hole and it takes a hex key, but it doesn't budge, I'll snap the key before moving it.  So I guess it has been locked in or overtightened.  It's about 5-6 threads down inside the hole. and has a small hole in the center, so I guess that's it?  Looks very deep in?

Am I correct, the oil for head lubrication is forced UP the block through the hole that this venturi sits above? Or is it a drain?  It seems that the head gasket hole, through which the oil passes, copper ring, is all that stops oil from leaking out.  Nothing else?

Hoping to start re-assemply this weekend.  Appreciate your kind advice.

Cheers!

[fixkick]

that is it, for sure, just thread hex screw with a cut orifice.

yes it is in very tight,  but if clear and clean the orifice it's ok.

every overhead cam engine has that hole. and all are sealed with the head gasket , (not installed backwards ) the Felpro gasket set even has UP MARK  stamped on it but not lame china clones.
the is called an OIL GALLERY, and is under 50psi at  cold engine startup.
before putting some gunk on the gasket,

the makers of gaskets (top brands) and all honda and toyotas;' the gasket is made with built in sealant that must not be messed with  ever, on assembly ( THE FIRST TIME RUN THE GASKET OOZES SELF SEALANT)<< MAGIC.

what you buy off the shelf for a head gasket, can be super good (Felpro) or pure junk (now vast) from china.
The head gasket is complex when and engine warms up from cold to hot, the gasket must flex to allow it to not tear up. from aluminum huge thermal expansion actions;

that Sir is the oil gallery. from the main gallery on left side of block, fed by the oil pump. and all main and rod bearings.

SOME 3 rules are( heads 101)
head must not be warped, (measure that) (the FSM covers this,  a steel ruler and feeler gauge test)1996 free in post #1. see engine chapter. (factory service manual)
block deck top , not warped.
and a top brand top quality gasket used not that china NO NAME or Funny name crap.
seen here.,
the wIde slits are oil drain back (gravity ) drains.
others there are water,
and just one head oil gallery front left corner on all G16s.  the pump gallery feed is seen below at the pump pressure adjuster plug. then to filter and last to main gallery and oil pressure  switch (aka a oil sender)
I had a hard time finding new head bolts,  (sold) (AT REBUILD) old bolts are not any good after 100000 thermal cycles cold> hot> cold. makes them weak. if old and weak they snap. (WITH NO WARNING)

GOOD LUCK ON YOUR HEAD JOB.




I had to drive  to H3LL AND BACK TO FIND 1 BLOCK THAT WAS NOT CRACKED.

[Peter Wood]

Fantastic help, much appreciated.

I'll leave well alone and reassemble as advised. I'll check that the cam is receiving oil after assembly, turning over on the starter before ignition.

Thanks for all info.

[fixkick]

Fantastic help, much appreciated.

I'll leave well alone and reassemble as advised.  I'll check that the cam is receiving oil after assembly, turning over on the starter before ignition.

Thanks for all info.

great
and I get 50PSI at the gallery , at the sender hole , dead cold cranked fast. (no spark  coil connected)

then see top end oiling, is first, as you said, #1 that.  or the cam will fail fast lacking fuel oil pressure.
good luck on yours!

[Peter Wood]

               

    fixkick pid='14051' dateline='1627131520']

Fantastic help, much appreciated.

I'll leave well alone and reassemble as advised.  I'll check that the cam is receiving oil after assembly, turning over on the starter before ignition.

Thanks for all info.

great
and I get 50PSI at the gallery , at the sender hole , dead cold cranked fast. (no spark  coil connected)

then see top end oiling, is first, as you said, #1 that.  or the cam will fail fast lacking fuel oil pressure.
good luck on yours!

Good Evening,


Well along with head rebuild.  Couldn't have done it without your excellent videos and diagrams, particularly cam to distributor timing.  Had the first fire up yesterday, lots oil in the cam, so putting it all back together now. 

I do have an issue, typical amateur!   Found these 2 brackets that I can't find a home for.  See below.  I think they're from the header or exhaust system.  Can you identify and advise location?

Much appreciate your help.

[fixkick]

Fantastic help, much appreciated.

I'll leave well alone and reassemble as advised.  I'll check that the cam is receiving oil after assembly, turning over on the starter before ignition.

Thanks for all info.

great
and I get 50PSI at the gallery , at the sender hole , dead cold cranked fast. (no spark  coil connected)

then see top end oiling, is first, as you said, #1 that.  or the cam will fail fast lacking fuel oil pressure.
good luck on yours!

Good Evening,


Well along with head rebuild.  Couldn't have done it without your excellent videos and diagrams, particularly cam to distributor timing.  Had the first fire up yesterday, lots oil in the cam, so putting it all back together now. 

I do have an issue, typical amateur!   Found these 2 brackets that I can't find a home for.  See below.  I think they're from the header or exhaust system.  Can you identify and advise location?

Much appreciate your help.

whooooowhhooooo great

the left bracket in the photo is the , engine lift hoiste loop, for chain/

this that 3 parts or 2, as the right lower seems to be same thing engine lift point bracket

that top right part is not clear for me to see. the number on the box confuse me.
they both bolt to manifold bolts for engine lifting, the large oval EYE there is the give away for me.


good luck and cheers  to you !

[Peter Wood]

Fantastic help, much appreciated.

I'll leave well alone and reassemble as advised.  I'll check that the cam is receiving oil after assembly, turning over on the starter before ignition.

Thanks for all info.

great
and I get 50PSI at the gallery , at the sender hole , dead cold cranked fast. (no spark  coil connected)

then see top end oiling, is first, as you said, #1 that.  or the cam will fail fast lacking fuel oil pressure.
good luck on yours!

Good Evening,


Well along with head rebuild.  Couldn't have done it without your excellent videos and diagrams, particularly cam to distributor timing.  Had the first fire up yesterday, lots oil in the cam, so putting it all back together now. 

I do have an issue, typical amateur!   Found these 2 brackets that I can't find a home for.  See below.  I think they're from the header or exhaust system.  Can you identify and advise location?

Much appreciate your help.

whooooowhhooooo great

the left bracket in the photo is the , engine lift hoiste loop, for chain/

this that 3 parts or 2, as the right lower seems to be same thing engine lift point bracket

that top right part is not clear for me to see. the number on the box confuse me.
they both bolt to manifold bolts for engine lifting, the large oval EYE there is the give away for me.


good luck and cheers  to you !


Hello,


Right, I can research those to find location.  Clearly never been used and unlikely to ever be...

Yup, delighted its starting to come togather.  A lot of work to just replace the valve oil seals, but what else is there to do under Covid lockdown...  Oh, yes, drink beer!

Cheers!

[fixkick]

Fantastic help, much appreciated.

I'll leave well alone and reassemble as advised.  I'll check that the cam is receiving oil after assembly, turning over on the starter before ignition.

Thanks for all info.

great
and I get 50PSI at the gallery , at the sender hole , dead cold cranked fast. (no spark  coil connected)

then see top end oiling, is first, as you said, #1 that.  or the cam will fail fast lacking fuel oil pressure.
good luck on yours!

Good Evening,


Well along with head rebuild.  Couldn't have done it without your excellent videos and diagrams, particularly cam to distributor timing.  Had the first fire up yesterday, lots oil in the cam, so putting it all back together now. 

I do have an issue, typical amateur!   Found these 2 brackets that I can't find a home for.  See below.  I think they're from the header or exhaust system.  Can you identify and advise location?

Much appreciate your help.

whooooowhhooooo great

the left bracket in the photo is the , engine lift hoiste loop, for chain/

this that 3 parts or 2, as the right lower seems to be same thing engine lift point bracket

that top right part is not clear for me to see. the number on the box confuse me.
they both bolt to manifold bolts for engine lifting, the large oval EYE there is the give away for me.


good luck and cheers  to you !


Hello,


Right, I can research those to find location.  Clearly never been used and unlikely to ever be...

Yup, delighted its starting to come togather.  A lot of work to just replace the valve oil seals, but what else is there to do under Covid lockdown...  Oh, yes, drink beer!

Cheers!

I made the below tool tool from copper waterpipe, 1inch to 1-1/4" home DEPOT or ACE hardware.

piston at TDC, shop air at 150psi
push down the spring and tickle out the keepers. (made 2007)