1.6 8v turbo (getting there)

[werd]

Hey there, I'm in the middle of a 1.6 8v (89-90) TBI swap into my suzuki based rock crawler (was a samurai at one point ) SO. where I'm at first off is I've stripped back the stock wiring harness to try to make it a stand alone system using your pin out diagram thank you very much and I've got spark, I've got the motor to turn. GREAT. except there are a few things, before I start to dial in.. A few things got damaged at some point and i need some part #'s



1. Is that MAP sensor that threads into the intake manifold (i need this)

2. the DP fast idle sensor got pooched.

And so did the EGR one beside it. although this vehicle wont require EGR and I'm going to be eliminating it all together. (do I really need to use either of these VSV for my offroad application )?


I threw the turbo in the subject because I'm sure i'll be frequently visiting this page once I get into troubleshooting.

Cheers!!

[fixkick]

greetings and welcome. nice summer project !

the map fits on the fire wall, and vacuum to its own special nipple. at rear of intake.
seen here, the twin hose , prevents freeze ups (ice ups) when cold and blocking vacuum to map. btw.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_43.html

the early engine has odd vacuum hoses. (frames 41 to 45 above)
the dash pot, VSV valve? smashed is easy to do ,its very fragile.
no egr, so do dont use it. (it might throw code 51 DTC, cross fingers it dont go to limphome mode, like same california, ECU do)
the dash pot missing means starting engine can be harder, missing all that fresh air.... may flood starting.
one guy i know adds foot throttle about 5% to start car, due to that DP missing.
if the vsv is missing the DP is active full time. and engine screams 3ooo or more at hot idle. so then he took the actual DP off TB. and no more DP.
the ECU assumes it works, and sets fuel ratio based on it working to start cold.

with the EGR main missing the VSV is useless. sure.

[werd]

greetings and welcome. nice summer project !

the map fits on the fire wall, and vacuum to its own special nipple. at rear of intake.
seen here, the twin hose , prevents freeze ups (ice ups) when cold and blocking vacuum to map. btw.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...ge_43.html

the early engine has odd vacuum hoses. (frames 41 to 45 above)
the dash pot, VSV valve? smashed is easy to do ,its very fragile.
no egr, so do dont use it. (it might throw code 51 DTC, cross fingers it dont go to limphome mode, like same california, ECU do)
the dash pot missing means starting engine can be harder, missing all that fresh air.... may flood starting.
one guy i know adds foot throttle about 5% to start car, due to that DP missing.
if the vsv is missing the DP is active full time. and engine screams 3ooo or more at hot idle. so then he took the actual DP off TB. and no more DP.
the ECU assumes it works, and sets fuel ratio based on it working to start cold.

with the EGR main missing the VSV is useless. sure.

Excellent thanks for the info. "so then he took the actual DP off TB. and no more DP" So essentially i'll just be deleting the DP system all together. This shouldn't be a problem especially considering the vehicle won't be used as a daily driver. Recreational use only.

as far as the MAP goes. I'm familiar with the location, what I can't seem to find is a part # for the piece you referred to going into the rear of the intake it is # 19 on the diagram that you linked.. Does anyone have a part # for this? I suppose I could take the diagram to the suzuki dealership and have them try to track it down.




A few photos for fun


   
   
   
   

[fixkick]

the DP provides, starter air, with iAC
if its missing that extra air is missing and it will start rich. how that plays out, depends on the weather.
but you can easily do that correction with right foot action, each trip offroad, Sure can easy. just add air with right toe if it wants to flood.

no problem. i can find part 19
i think is just a filter. or nothing there at all. just adaptor.

id 19 is called (filter gas) by suzuki they meant vacuum filter.
18133-61a00 (the pipe threads can be very odd on these cars) now A01 version

http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/1990...eid=214820

my guess is there is a baffle in it to stop water from going to map. (intake sucking in humid air , issues)


good luck ! ,nice rig !!

[werd]

well to update this sawp/turbo install i've got good and bad news.

the motor runs which is good.

And the bad, my turbo was leaking oil bad from the compression housing and into the exhaust so I thought it was pooched and had it rebuilt........ STILL leaking oil, after adjusting a few things this is where im at with it. I am running a -4an (1/4") line with a restrictor for my feed off of a T on the block where the oil pressure sensor port is. For my return i'm running a -8an (1/2") line into a 45* bung into the pan (just north of the oil filter) ABOVE the oil line when the pan was full at 4.5 quarts...... I am so stumped I don't even know where to start?? It's like it's getting too much oil pressure, and not returning fast enough.... But both my feed and return are very similar to stock turbo lines. Any ideas?? I've tried to disconnect the PCV valves to eleviate any excess crank pressure,cranked over and still leaked.... I've pulled spark plugs to check for any fowling due to excessive blow by and couldn't notice anything irregular.

How ever apon firing (and note my idle isn't set and I don't have a tach set up yet) my oil pressure was reading around 60 PSI. Does this seem high? could this be my culprit? It seems high to me. i've read in the past as a foot note you should be at about 10PSI per 1000RPM.

If my oil pressure is too high.... what could be causing that??

[fixkick]

the oil pressure dead cold, even cranked sparks out , hits 55. (this is the relief valve opening)
some run a separate oil system for Turbo's so when you shut the engine down, it runs for 5min, to prevent bearing coking. and other isssues... engine oil contam.....

the low figure, of 10 PSI, is only with wrong oil , or loose bearings. at 800 rpm, 10w-30. (but oil temp is key here. as is engine temp...)

the oil pump has relief valve. on the left side. this sets upper limit, (a spring and piston valve)
the spec sheet lists oil pressure at 40 PSI, hot at 4000 rpm. (this is based on clearance of mains,rods, and oil viscosity/temp.)

the relief valve is another matter, (mostly for very cold starts ups) 55psi, is typical. my guess, is 50 to 60 by design.

2 choices, seperate, oil system for turbo
or
a line pressure reg to the turbo.