‘96 x90 Gauge cluster removal?

[TomPrestin]

I’ve gotten myself 95% into a complete rebuilt on a 1996 x90, and this site has literally been a savior on SO many subjects. It was originally flood damaged so the interior is completely stripped, including the entire dash. The gauge cluster lays amongst the tubular structure remaining in the cab, with no active speedo, tach or temp readings. It functions only for the purpose of the “idiot” lights and fuel level. I’ve got a GPS vss/speedo system so that’s already bypassed. Contrary to the pages I’ve browsed here about certain lamps being a requirement for ECU systems to function correctly, I’ve disconnected all of the pinplugs from the cluster and started/run the vehicle for a short time without any codes showing on my OBD2 scanner or any obvious changes to running.

Mechanics I am confident in, Electronics of this nature I am willing to admit are not anywhere near my ‘pro’s’ column. So my question is simple- [on this year system] are those lamps and gauges actually sending information back to the ECU and their removal would cause an underlying disruption that may only show itself after an extended term, or can I finally throw this plastic piece of trash away and finish my custom dash with all new gauges/indicator lamps and be a happy fellow?

[fixkick]

the 96 is a very much different car, than the 95, EFI aside
the car has a new side impact system on the dash making the cluster now in side steel box or very isolated from below.
that is correct, the OBD2 system does not ever talk (2 ways) to the cluster, like say a modern jeep does with JEEP having a full blown computer inside, (using CAN bus etc)
your cluster is 99% passive device, just lamps, old fashioned incandescent lamps, (tungsten filaments) 1% is VSS device.
the ECU uses a simple 100mA transistor to glow each lamp and if you use higher current lamps this overheats those transistors and puts them at risk for heat. (so is not bull that)

no mostly and the proof is here, we have drawings for the cluster, that are fully accurate and the full FSM is on pose 1 in this forum.
the gauges are passive (electric an are actually heaters that heat up and a bimetal coil heats and the needle moves up scale, so is crude as can be.
the odometer is a tiny gear driven box, that too is fully covered on my speedo page, full coverage.
the speedo needle is magnetic driving off cable end.

European page 24 look.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/Full96%2...-power.pdf


yellow wire is VSS
C3 plug pin 4. seen here
GM shows the VSS missing in the cluster page but adds it here. later in the book. vol,2, chapter 8A-33

https://web.archive.org/web/201011191028...33_pdf.htm


good luck, and I do know what you are doing and it will work !!!


VSS the ECu will show errors if dead, if 5speed or (3speed auto) the 4speed many not show an error, IDK (4sp has 2 VSS) about you'd have to drive the car, and may take 2 or 3 trips to , make DTC error show up.l

yes there is one INPUT, that is VSS in the cluster.
the VSS clicks and tells ECU your speed, and is important. for fuel mixture moving fast or up hills.
the VSS on auto trans cars have 2 speed sensors.
one in the cluster VSS and one in the transmission VSS2.
so on the A/T car it uses VSS2 all the time (for sure the 4 speed) and then if that fails, transmission TCM brain fails back to the VSS1 in the cluster.


just the VSS matters, ive no idea what transmission you run. so....
good luck !


volume 2: covers 96 cluster

https://web.archive.org/web/201011191028...33_pdf.htm

[TomPrestin]

Thank you thank you! secondary question... I've also eliminated the ignition switch, and rewired all of the indicator (idiot) lights to new LED indicator units, resulting in a bit of a curiosity: they only work backwards. Ex- when the running lights are on, the high beam indicator is on, but when I turn on the high beams it goes out completely. same with 4x4 indicator. in 2wd light is illuminated, in 4x4 it goes out. Cant get the check engine light or Ebrake light to come on at all. I have a feeling this has something to do with the ignition switch removal. most of the pins on the ignition switch are clearly labeled and easily traceable, but there are 2 pins that don't seem to show up anywhere, one labeled "E" the other "L". I traced one to a ground distro so clearly its a ground- but what on earth would it be grounding? the other goes to a Violet/Red line which as indicated on the schematic connects to the EBrake indicator, only on "start", (not on run).

My question is: Is the starter switch supplying power to that Violet/Red line on start? or is there some kind of passing of ground via the starter switch which has reversed the signal chain to the indicators? I know I have the colors of which line goes where correct (double checked over and over) but have no clue why they aren't working at all, or backwards...

[fixkick]

YOU HAVE THE HIGH BEAM WIRES AND LOW REVERSED ,THE 1996 FULL SCHEMATIC IS HERE.
That is not an Ebrake, wire, its 3 brake tests, brake reservoir, failure, hand brake (Erg) and ABS failure. all on one lamp. and DRL, the DRL monitors 2 things hand brake and alternator failure,
or brake differential pressure switch failure.
the DRL sees the hand brake go off and then headlamp go to DRL mode, if not the Hand brake is on the HL go to non DRL mode, so my guess is you never found the DRL module yet.
IF legal, defeat the DRL per my DRL page on subjec (fixkick.com search DRL)
you do know that the cluster lights are tested when first key on, right.? the auto self test?
starter?
no the starter switch only runs the starter solenoid, (and 1 more wire to the ecu to tell it to go to crank up mode special)
but if you watch a normal car the cluster goes dead, cranked, for more power to a weak batter and starter motor, (cranking is always best with all things, not EFI turned off)
custom wiring any car is no easy task, after all many details are hidden in harnesses, now abandoned?
Im not totally sure what your are attempting, only making the X90 run like new, out of factory using correct parts, or are you doing some modifications? from stock?
not sure at all, me.
the comment on Removal..... not sure... at all , are you trying to DELETE the cluster from the car, if yes, why do that.?
why would you delete a major function of the car, like this? this make the car fail smog, testing, no odometer, and selling car very hard if modified from stock in this way,,
are you attempting to make car offroad 100% car, IDK.
I've no idea what your end goal is, and purpose, for car. IDK

1996
does car have ABS (it was an options)
does this car have DRL, daylight Running lamps option (and DRL module is now wired wrong, seems like it did to me)
our cluster is wired like this (sidekick/tracker) X90 documents are not easy to find.

https://web.archive.org/web/201011191046...81_pdf.htm
lets look at the below link next and some clearer drawings. page 24 below PDF page.
see fuse F16 runs the cluster for power. black/white. power

see pin G09-p15 and G11-p3
this runs most of the cluster for power, 12vdc, battery power. hot , run or start, (the ignition switch does this magic cut power to the the cluster cranking) ok?
most the cluster runs off those 2 left side cluster power rails. ,all lamps and all gauges run on these 2 power rails in side the cluster.
EXCEPTIONS:
Illumination (parking +dim feed) back ground lamps, call this.
highbeam lamp (cluster) this is for sure wired to DRL if you have DRL. if not then wires to the highbeam feed.
turn signals
see page 24 (cluster page)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/Full96%2...-power.pdf

so did you find the DRL module yet, and bypass it?
DRL page 21,. the cluster lamp drl and brake failure wiring is show here clearly.
Non DRL page I do not have schematic of non DRL, 96, but is wired much like 95

http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/Head-...nDRL1w.jpg
or
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/headL...no-DRL.jpg

[fixkick]

recap.
DLR, you have right?
and you do not have the right ignition switch so the start power to the cluster is now wrong.
the DRL brake logic is now wrong. inverting HL, this normal with hand brake wired wrong or missing. The head brake is also (activate DRL switch)
The ABS plays here too if present, Ive no idea what options are on your car.

The cluster is a passive device, unlike my 2000 year and up real jeeps. (2002 is best jeep to own)
The cluster has no BRAIN, no processor and no CAN bus communications systems. unlike all modern cars have for 2 decades.
The cluster has just lamps and meters, all passive devices (aka; Dumb slave devices) a lamp is only a simple Thomas Edison device. (tungsten)
my kill DRL page
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/DRL/95-97DLR-USA.pdf

where is it on my 96/97
see drifting around here.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/DRL/Index.html

above steering column under dash ! is DRL module.

The tacho is the only electronic device in the head. (it takes ignition pulses and covers them to DC levels , and integrator so the tacho is really a voltmeter)
the other gauges are thermal device,s that move needles with heat, inside (bimetal technology)
the speedo is pure mechanical. and cable and magnetically coupled and odometer gear drive.
The VSS is the only ECU input. from the cluster. (is simple magnet reed switch)
The OTHER VSS is usually a secondary device, VSS2, as the ECU in the car watches the transmission VSS1, until it fails then tries the VSS1, if both are dead you will in fact get VSS errors from the ECU and may cause the ECU to go dumb (go to limphome mode and fuel mileage suffers)
If car is 4speed auto trans, the TCM brain watches them all tool all speed sensors, to shift correctly.

[fixkick]

The DRL is a strange device.
it is programmed (logic) to do some tricks if things fail.
trick one is the hand brake, if left on DRL acts odd, on purpose. this is to let you know brake is on and also to go to manual mode, headlights off, if parked and you do not want head lamps to disturb the neighbors or gee fellow campers, .
the 2nd trick is the brake failure cause DRL to act up, and is a warning gee brakes are messed up.
the 3rd trick is DRL watches the alternator, if the alternator dies, why let DRL suck the battery dead faster when lamps on at say high noon, well it lets you turn off lamps.
Ive driven 60 miles like that, letting me make it home with dead alternator.
in the day time one can go about 20amp hours distance like that. 4 hours max. then battery is too week to run spark and fuel and for sure a restart.
the cure is defeat the DRL or install the switch as my pages imply (DRL /on/off) toggle switch a $1 fix.