https://fixkick.com/forum/ Mon, 13 Apr 2026 14:12:38 +0000 MyBB https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1991-vitara-tracker-how-to-disable-dashpot Thu, 27 Mar 2025 19:46:34 +0800 jwunsch]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1991-vitara-tracker-how-to-disable-dashpot
Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
- 257000km / 160 000 miles
- Plate in engine compartment.
  - TYPE: ETA01V
  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
- No AC



Ok again some fun with my degrading EFI system.

Last time I diabled IAC with aluminium tape and plaster of paris. ( https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-high-id...2#pid13982  ). Build a vacuum stealing hose to cabin with moped's fuel valve as a IAC "bypass-hack-hand-throttle-hack" to rise RPM when cold.

Also ISC is kaput, can't find replacement part. Also idle RPM tuned by some carburetor guy before I bought this 6 years ago. Guessing because of dead ISC.

Anyhow car is in condition it is working and driveable, but now that it has been sitting for couple of months during winter, there is a new issue.


The daspot (or what ever it was called) that slightly presses throttle on cold start is "sticking". Yesterday (engine warmed up) I noticed that I have slightly elevated idle 1200 RPM. When arriving my destination I did couple of turn of and start again tries. Most of them resulted to 900-100RPM which has been "default idle" for this car after that carburetor guy poking it.

Anyhow one start resulted to 1400RPM. I went to look under my hood and the throttle cable had zero slack, bit pulled back. I did couple of restarts until it resulted to 1000RPM and there is couple of mm a slack in now.

So to my understanding the daspot thing is getting stuck intermittently. I see it has rust outside, so most probably it has rust inside too.


Is there some easy way of just disabling it without pissing the ECU? Like pulling some electric cable or vacuum hose. Ofc if I need to pull a vacuum hose I need to plug it, but thats easy. Golf tees work like a charm.


I am guess I can get it started on cold weather with slight press on throttle pedal and opening the valve for my hack for IAC. Anyhow seems to be eager one to start even if its -30C / -22F outside.]]>
Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
- 257000km / 160 000 miles
- Plate in engine compartment.
  - TYPE: ETA01V
  - LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
- No AC



Ok again some fun with my degrading EFI system.

Last time I diabled IAC with aluminium tape and plaster of paris. ( https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-high-id...2#pid13982  ). Build a vacuum stealing hose to cabin with moped's fuel valve as a IAC "bypass-hack-hand-throttle-hack" to rise RPM when cold.

Also ISC is kaput, can't find replacement part. Also idle RPM tuned by some carburetor guy before I bought this 6 years ago. Guessing because of dead ISC.

Anyhow car is in condition it is working and driveable, but now that it has been sitting for couple of months during winter, there is a new issue.


The daspot (or what ever it was called) that slightly presses throttle on cold start is "sticking". Yesterday (engine warmed up) I noticed that I have slightly elevated idle 1200 RPM. When arriving my destination I did couple of turn of and start again tries. Most of them resulted to 900-100RPM which has been "default idle" for this car after that carburetor guy poking it.

Anyhow one start resulted to 1400RPM. I went to look under my hood and the throttle cable had zero slack, bit pulled back. I did couple of restarts until it resulted to 1000RPM and there is couple of mm a slack in now.

So to my understanding the daspot thing is getting stuck intermittently. I see it has rust outside, so most probably it has rust inside too.


Is there some easy way of just disabling it without pissing the ECU? Like pulling some electric cable or vacuum hose. Ofc if I need to pull a vacuum hose I need to plug it, but thats easy. Golf tees work like a charm.


I am guess I can get it started on cold weather with slight press on throttle pedal and opening the valve for my hack for IAC. Anyhow seems to be eager one to start even if its -30C / -22F outside.]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-engine-flooding-and-misfiring-after-rain Thu, 13 Feb 2025 14:55:33 +0800 Akull]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-engine-flooding-and-misfiring-after-rain
I've been driving my 16v powered samurai for a couple years now, and recently has become undrivable any time it rains.

Engine is out of a 1994 suzuki sidekick, CA car. EGR has been blocked off with resistor spoofing the ECU. Alternator has been replaced with GM CS130. No catalytic convertor. (engine had previously run fine with these modifications)

Recently, with any hint of rain (drizzle), the engine tries to flood itself and misfires on all cylinders. Spark plugs are black and wet from overfueling.
cold start rpm is 2000rpm only after tapping the gas pedal, then falls on its face below 1000rpm and nearly stalls. This continues even after engine has warmed up, nearly stalling when under 2000rpm unless holding the pedal open.

There is no CEL, and flashes code 12 when I check codes.

I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires and air filter when the issue started. No fix.
Additionally replaced the coil as it had over 200k miles on it, still no improvement.
I replaced the o2 sensor, which improved hot idle when not raining, but rains have started again and back to the same overfueling issue.

I assuming compression is good as the engine runs great when it is dry outside (strong 800rpm hot idle).

I am suspecting sensor issues as the issue is intermittent with rain...
I'd appreciate any help with this, and what I should start with checking as I will have some time to work on it this weekend.

Thanks.]]>
I've been driving my 16v powered samurai for a couple years now, and recently has become undrivable any time it rains.

Engine is out of a 1994 suzuki sidekick, CA car. EGR has been blocked off with resistor spoofing the ECU. Alternator has been replaced with GM CS130. No catalytic convertor. (engine had previously run fine with these modifications)

Recently, with any hint of rain (drizzle), the engine tries to flood itself and misfires on all cylinders. Spark plugs are black and wet from overfueling.
cold start rpm is 2000rpm only after tapping the gas pedal, then falls on its face below 1000rpm and nearly stalls. This continues even after engine has warmed up, nearly stalling when under 2000rpm unless holding the pedal open.

There is no CEL, and flashes code 12 when I check codes.

I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires and air filter when the issue started. No fix.
Additionally replaced the coil as it had over 200k miles on it, still no improvement.
I replaced the o2 sensor, which improved hot idle when not raining, but rains have started again and back to the same overfueling issue.

I assuming compression is good as the engine runs great when it is dry outside (strong 800rpm hot idle).

I am suspecting sensor issues as the issue is intermittent with rain...
I'd appreciate any help with this, and what I should start with checking as I will have some time to work on it this weekend.

Thanks.]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-2001-chevy-tracker-struts-and-shocks Sat, 08 Feb 2025 07:09:34 +0800 dhe]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-2001-chevy-tracker-struts-and-shocks
   Can anyone tell me if any BilStein options would work, or other recommendations?]]>
   Can anyone tell me if any BilStein options would work, or other recommendations?]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1998-sidekick-jlx-1-8 Thu, 12 Sep 2024 23:54:26 +0800 danstrayer2]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1998-sidekick-jlx-1-8    1998 JLX 1.8.  4wd.  I have a recurring 0741 code, Torque Converter Clutch lockup, stuck off.
  I pulled the AT pan, tested solenoid, that is fine, blew out the passages around that w/ air. New filter. New oil. New O ring on solenoid.
 (All of this happened after pulling motor to replace oil pump in the engine)  Took it out on chilly morning after clearing code, 0741 set again within a mile at highway speed.  Stopped, cleared code, drove home  @ highway speed,  CEL did not come back on.

     After the motor re-install, I had a shift solenoid code, dropped pan, took the 2 solenoids out, but tested them in place first w 12 v applied, and # 2 was weak. Took them out, blew air, got them working fine.  That code did not come back. Piece of dirt/debris in the the valve. Then the TCC code problems began, still a piece of debris in there? How to get it out? 
Can engine temp or ECT sensor have a bearing on this? Will a transmission flush remove debris from valve body? (that's what I think this is, piece of crap in the valve body)
 Thanks to all in advance.]]>    1998 JLX 1.8.  4wd.  I have a recurring 0741 code, Torque Converter Clutch lockup, stuck off.
  I pulled the AT pan, tested solenoid, that is fine, blew out the passages around that w/ air. New filter. New oil. New O ring on solenoid.
 (All of this happened after pulling motor to replace oil pump in the engine)  Took it out on chilly morning after clearing code, 0741 set again within a mile at highway speed.  Stopped, cleared code, drove home  @ highway speed,  CEL did not come back on.

     After the motor re-install, I had a shift solenoid code, dropped pan, took the 2 solenoids out, but tested them in place first w 12 v applied, and # 2 was weak. Took them out, blew air, got them working fine.  That code did not come back. Piece of dirt/debris in the the valve. Then the TCC code problems began, still a piece of debris in there? How to get it out? 
Can engine temp or ECT sensor have a bearing on this? Will a transmission flush remove debris from valve body? (that's what I think this is, piece of crap in the valve body)
 Thanks to all in advance.]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-jx-inner-shifter-boot Sun, 11 Aug 2024 22:59:53 +0800 Xoloski]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-jx-inner-shifter-boot My shifter boot is torn, I am seeking either a replacement or an alternative to OE.
The inner boot of my 4-door 1993 Sidekick JX is part number: 28136-85F40.
This part seems to by unavailable anywhere I've looked.
I have seen something somewhat similar for way too much money, that may or may not work. 
Rather than buy a part from Sumatra that doesn't fit and wii end-up sitting on the shelf, I'd rather be certain of fit or fabricate something I know works.

Does anyone have a source, spare, or alternative solution?

Thanks,

Availability: 0]]> My shifter boot is torn, I am seeking either a replacement or an alternative to OE.
The inner boot of my 4-door 1993 Sidekick JX is part number: 28136-85F40.
This part seems to by unavailable anywhere I've looked.
I have seen something somewhat similar for way too much money, that may or may not work. 
Rather than buy a part from Sumatra that doesn't fit and wii end-up sitting on the shelf, I'd rather be certain of fit or fabricate something I know works.

Does anyone have a source, spare, or alternative solution?

Thanks,

Availability: 0]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1991-suzuki-sidekick-jlx-trans-wiring Thu, 01 Aug 2024 06:18:12 +0800 hoffy30]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1991-suzuki-sidekick-jlx-trans-wiring https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1991-sidekick-speedometer Sat, 29 Jun 2024 04:54:01 +0800 hoffy30]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1991-sidekick-speedometer https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-tracker-trim Sun, 16 Jun 2024 02:17:51 +0800 dhe]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-tracker-trim
It appears to be held in with 8 plastic rivets on the front. 

My problem is one of the pieces is loose at the bottom and I'm not seeing how that is held in place. 

Is the exploded diagram some where to reference?]]>
It appears to be held in with 8 plastic rivets on the front. 

My problem is one of the pieces is loose at the bottom and I'm not seeing how that is held in place. 

Is the exploded diagram some where to reference?]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-93-sidekick-1-6-16v-engine-no-spark Thu, 02 May 2024 08:50:31 +0800 Francixco]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-93-sidekick-1-6-16v-engine-no-spark
Greetings from Chile]]>
Greetings from Chile]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-leaks-and-seals Sat, 20 Apr 2024 23:36:50 +0800 dhe]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-leaks-and-seals
I had my mechanic go over it and look for any leaks.

He replaced:
  Rear Main Seal
  Pass Diff Seal
  Rear Pinon Seal
  
I hope I'm good for another 23 years and 150K.]]>
I had my mechanic go over it and look for any leaks.

He replaced:
  Rear Main Seal
  Pass Diff Seal
  Rear Pinon Seal
  
I hope I'm good for another 23 years and 150K.]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-93-sidekick-16-valve-burning-rich Tue, 16 Apr 2024 08:31:08 +0800 Shears#22]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-93-sidekick-16-valve-burning-rich
-new temp sensor ( going to ECM )
-new idle control valve & cold idle control valve both checked before installing 
-new EGR valve
-4 new MAF
- new tps sensor
- all new vacuum lines 
- throttle body has been removed and cleaned 
- upper and lower intake have been removed and cleaned including the 4 holes in lower intake 
-new plugs ( gapped on 28)
-new wires
- new distributor and cap!
- checked timing multiple times (timed on 4) 
- all coolant hoses have been removed and blown through 
- new water pump 
- new oil pump. 
- new timing belt
- key way checked on crank
- new reman original injectors ( new seals)
- new air filter ( has cold air Intake, is secured and not bouncing around)
- new fuel pump ( bought from trail gear high pressure pump)
- new fuel filters
- new regulator on fuel rail
- fuel pressure checked on rail ( checked good)
- new pcv valve.
- new o2 sensor

Has header , pipe , and muffler no CAT. Everything flows as should.


 
Relays checked on fire wall ( Checked good even under a load )
The only thing I have not replaced is the ECM everything thing on this engine is new. Any help would be great! Im out of ideas]]>
-new temp sensor ( going to ECM )
-new idle control valve & cold idle control valve both checked before installing 
-new EGR valve
-4 new MAF
- new tps sensor
- all new vacuum lines 
- throttle body has been removed and cleaned 
- upper and lower intake have been removed and cleaned including the 4 holes in lower intake 
-new plugs ( gapped on 28)
-new wires
- new distributor and cap!
- checked timing multiple times (timed on 4) 
- all coolant hoses have been removed and blown through 
- new water pump 
- new oil pump. 
- new timing belt
- key way checked on crank
- new reman original injectors ( new seals)
- new air filter ( has cold air Intake, is secured and not bouncing around)
- new fuel pump ( bought from trail gear high pressure pump)
- new fuel filters
- new regulator on fuel rail
- fuel pressure checked on rail ( checked good)
- new pcv valve.
- new o2 sensor

Has header , pipe , and muffler no CAT. Everything flows as should.


 
Relays checked on fire wall ( Checked good even under a load )
The only thing I have not replaced is the ECM everything thing on this engine is new. Any help would be great! Im out of ideas]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-turn-signal-hazard-flasher Sun, 14 Apr 2024 06:08:12 +0800 98TrackerMan]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-turn-signal-hazard-flasher  
 
     Long time since I posted. Here's the  little problem. Where is the Flasher located?  under the dash or engine compartment?
and this is the part number i found online --Genuine GM Hazard Warning Flasher "30026596"
      thanks  in advance   
                            REGARDS,    98TrackerMan]]>  
 
     Long time since I posted. Here's the  little problem. Where is the Flasher located?  under the dash or engine compartment?
and this is the part number i found online --Genuine GM Hazard Warning Flasher "30026596"
      thanks  in advance   
                            REGARDS,    98TrackerMan]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-no-spark-to-coil-on-93-kick-surprise Sat, 06 Apr 2024 22:38:36 +0800 KcZuks]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-no-spark-to-coil-on-93-kick-surprise https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-suzuki-1-6-16-valve-rough-idle Sun, 31 Mar 2024 10:10:23 +0800 Shears#22]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-suzuki-1-6-16-valve-rough-idle https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-vacuum-advance Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:44:02 +0800 happyAlpaca]]> https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-vacuum-advance
I was looking at my distributor and I noticed my vacuum advance diaphragm is ripped. I'm trying to find a new one for my 1989 Sidekick JLX but I can't find one anywhere. Could someone please suggest what non-G16A specific vacuum advance might work?

Thank you!

Jose]]>
I was looking at my distributor and I noticed my vacuum advance diaphragm is ripped. I'm trying to find a new one for my 1989 Sidekick JLX but I can't find one anywhere. Could someone please suggest what non-G16A specific vacuum advance might work?

Thank you!

Jose]]>