preparing for the future

[fixkick]

I have been working on checking the timing of the car today,it took me a bit to get here hopefully the pics come thru. first pic is of the whole timing bellt area where everthing landed with #1 cyl @TDC. why?

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/g...55_00.jpeg

Here is shot of Timing cover and harmonic balance where it landed w/#1 cyl @ TDC

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/g...57_35.jpeg
photo 35, is that a key in that cam hole slot? "or photo adoration" and why is that cam hub key slot missing the I stamp, odd that is.?
and why are your timing this at #1 firing the cam is timed at #4 firing.
all the steps are here. see phase 1 and 2. all steps are important. on a new motor, this is simple, but this motor is not new.

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html


shot of bottom timing gear where it landed w/#1 cyl @ TDC (great for timing a dizzy, valve cover planted.)

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/g...56_42.jpeg

shot of top timing gear where it landed w/#1 cyl @ TDC

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/g...58_35.jpeg

I tried to loosen crank nut today, after playing with the timing most of the day. I had car on jackstands, had my son hold brakes and put e brake on, with manual transmission in 5th gear. I started of slowly loosening bolt with a click Torque wrench, was all I had available to me. I started low and finally got to about 70 foot pounds, when I noticed bottom timing mark was going backwards CCW. I stopped there, because i know on SOHC engines you cant go backwards.
the FSM states not to turn the crank backward for only 1 reason, so the bolt dont accidentally come loose. (sad they skip the why, huh?)
it is true, CW is the only way to tension the belt )step), it must be done in the normal running direction, for sure.


So after some thought i Figured i need to take rear wheels off of the jack stands, and chock the rear tires. I just put new rear brakes on, and they are not adjusted, so i will adjust them, manually. I also put new E-brake cables on once I have those adjusted to the newly adjusted brakes, I am hoping that I will be ok to loosen crank nut, and check the key way to see if it is in need of repair. I am hoping that I am on the right path with this. you are.

Another thing I need to touch on is on the air filter box heading down stream towards the fuel injection, just beyond the MAF is a rubber plenum, that has been electrical taped to cover up some breaks in the rubber. I am wondering if I can use super thin cyanoacrylate superglue. (It is as thin as water and will find a way into cracks and dry instantly, and reach full strength in an hour). (this is just info for those that don't know about it. ) I do have concerns that the rubber has reached the end of its life, and this may only be a one time trick. Are there replacement plenums for these? yes.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/g...02_05.jpeg
ouch ! bad part id 16? suzuki pn, 13881-58b00 (1992 to 96 only)
http://www.oemsuzukiparts.com/parts/inde...eid=214330
97-98 are diffr, and need whole intake swap, to use them.
im not sure how to glue this type plastic. not at all. ive never had luck with that, RTV?


http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95induct.jpg

I think that about covers it, thanks for your help. cheers Bill

this is the only way to time any 16v G16 engine. below, and has FSM full link , as refr.
there is a 6 point alignment. and the belt need to be, tensioned.
you are still at phase 1 step 14. my guess.


phase 2 , step 15, prevents p0335, and other false codes, and max belt life.

you photo 35 will be great help timing the distributor. last. because that is #1 firing, a Dizzy can be timed #1 or 4 firing.
not looking at valve lash , id set the dizzy at #4 firing. and rotor to #4 tower term. that be.
1,3,4,2 , (dizzy fires every 90deg. so rotor is at 7pm, as seen here. if the cam is at #4 firing marks, see?)


you can time a dizzy 2 ways, valve cover, off #1 using lash loose, or valve cover on, and timed to #4 ,using the cam timing steps. (aligned #4)
no FSM covers that. The FSM assumes its a 60k and the lash is checked there, and new VC gaskets. they assume the shop is GM or SUZ. and doing
normal service. not skipping steps.

here is the acid test for the cam. off my sneak a peak page.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html#ACID
the 7th point of alignment is keys not sheared,+ or crank snout mangled,



that 17mm nut, you can not hurt the cam, turning it CCW, ever.
the bolt can be at 94lbs. that is a blessing , that means the last guy read the TSB! great.
i turn the bolt, ccw, and if over 150lbs. i giveup or use heat, (gently) and some bolts are loctited in, and if loctited, did PO use what grade.?
one grade takes 300f heat to remove, or its Impossible to remove, period cold. and is the purpose of said grade.
I use reg. grade loctite on my bolt threads, works cold.
i dont like heating my crank snout do to close proximity of the babbit main. 300F max there, IIRC?

if i find i can not remove the bolt, i then do very careful TDC checks on the crank.
the piston stays at TDC for more than 1 degree (human looking at straw sitting in the spark hole , i never use a screw driver for fear of damaging the very fragile head spark 14mm threads...)
When we use a real tdc tool, or spark stopper, we split the difference.
with the spark stopper, you go CW and hit, (mark the cog ) then ccw and hit, (mark the cog again,) the the 1/2 way point between the two marks.
is true TDC. I only need to see if its with in 2 degree/s , im not racing. (in racing we use a dial indicator, it's dead accurate)
the only reason to look careful is to see if the key is damaged (hidden damage) and off TDC. many are.
keep in mind ,any hidden damage, will get worse as you drive.
the other reason to look is:
1: damage to snout, key
2: damage to back stop on crank snout, this is what really holds the cog , not any key.
3: damage to the cog in any way shape or form, out it comes in to trash, (both key, bore out of round or back stop damaged)
a good cog and key./ crank snout. the fit is very tight, not "interference tight" but so tight i must use my puller, that is how it left the factory.

watch out for these horrors,
1: 17mm nut welded to pulley, seen many field stump pulling kicks done like this, car worth $50 , so they weld it. (id never do it,)
2: key welded to crank and filed to fit.
3: only key slot welded, and filed anew.
4: key cut on back side of crank, 180 out, and new key fitted here. and timed 180 out, or put e new marks on cog.

as you can see, its like a box of chocolates, "you never know what you are going to get)

the only bad crank if done (not possible with the locite trick seen on my how to fix the bad snout page, using the Mazda trick)
bad mangling, rebuilt crank is $400 (off shelf)
is i have my local pro crank shop, they can weld it and machine a new key , very easy. then polish the journals for free.
he can grind a crank for 1/4th off shelf. if need...

Usually the bolt cracks free at about 150lbs. (by hand)
do not use an air hammer impact gun, one guy did and over 200 lbs, the treads , just ,fell out. seen so many times, its sick.
yes, rear wheels on ground 5sp,, you can feel, in fact, the whole drive line wind up. just like torsion spring, ..... normal.
the stock motor is 90 fl/lbs torque so that is nothing, 2x that is ok too. ask 5 psi boost turbo guys.

that is my comments on timing a SOHC 16v G16motor. and the pit falls.

here is a 97 , in detail.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...index.html

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sorry for long post, i dont want you to fail.
btw, its all here, even the dizzy timing lies... see my photo above for truth. the below is the GM book and is poor clone of suzuki real. but is $15 on fleabay. 1996 actual.
http://www.acksfaq.com/trackerfsm.htm

chapter 6a covers this, not the horrors, just assembling a perfect motor.

ps, here is my running list of GM book errors.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/error-galore.html

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335 , what is it. what to do.
GMs, take.
pdf page 35 chapter 3 on EFI DTCs
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v2-6E3-A-part3-pdf.htm

keep in mind, all 96s start and run with the CKP sensor unplugged, not great, but starts , runs and drives, CEL blaring away....

i dont have the SUZ page on this so do not know if the CKP was dead after 20 CMP pulses is true.
this may be true. 20CMP equals 10 crank revolutions. that is big time drop out. 20 div by 4(cyl) is 5 and x2 for crank ratio is 10 crank turns.

so 335 is a major loss of CKP, not just 1 pulse in 6 , like CMP does for failure.
the CKP wires also have a shield, if the shield on the cable is broken , it will fail.
the CKP measures about 400 ohms (coil pins) any DMM can read that.
no matter the CMP is sending wrong. either dead, or dropping out.