no, sorry, this is not like putting on a front accessory belt like my 2010 jeep, with new SERP belt dynamic live tension'er, (you dont have one on car, anywhere...)
there are no dynamic tensioners here,
pulley? , you mean idler pulley, sure.
the idler came off at belt off time, the idler is mounted to the pump., (step 12 in my list)
so when off the belt is like HUGE loose and falling off and flapping about.
no that is not how it is done at all.
belt in hand.
the idler is off. (removed)
engine at TDC mark, at 12pm to oil pump arrow head at 12pm
the cam at titty mark at 12pm aligned with matching mark at 12pm on back pan 12pm top.
lash loose, (the lash must be loose to remove cam bias. if not the belt tension-ing step fails. see? why>?
then put on the belt
then make it tight on right side (facing rear of car) no slack on that side
then put on the tensioner.
index tab warnings, on page shows how to do it wrong and right
and there is spring there, see that?> that is the device that sets belt tension for the tensioning steps.
the stud that locks the idler/spring , is loose a bit. so the idler can flop left and right at its will. (a key step here)
then
what youtube video?, you do know that 1/2 the stuff on youtube is crazy wrong , ? (some persons wild ideas of how to guess or whatever , )
Please send the link to youtube so i can have a nice laugh....
the new belt has instructions (GATES does) from china noname .zero
short and sweet, but skips lots of problems to go wrong.
my guess is you skipped lots of steps..
the below is belt only swap so the idler was OFF) and means
that at step (install) #6 , you put on the ildler pulley (its missing)leaving it loose, per step 6, (large center bolt on idler) loose.
the step 7 to 12, (can i assume steps 1 to 5 were done? (install section right side of page?) i can know what you did or skipped, sorry.
![[Image: 8v-tbelt1w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/8v-tbelt1w.jpg)
-------------------------------omg--------------------------------------------
i used to have page, that was called the Gorilla method of belt changes!
they cut the belt off
then pound the new belt on with a rubber mallet.
2 steps,, and makes some mech. very rich, charging big labor (TIME) for near zero efforts.
watching gorilla videos. are you, i cant guess what you watch, would have to see it to say.
if not done correctly
the belt will be loose, when done wrong, and will beat it self to death soon.
a fact.
the actual tension (done right) is dictated by the thing spring seen in the center above.
it only creates tension at step 8, then at step 9 the spring is defeated, locked down for next 60,000 miles. (call the spring PARKED)
there are no dynamic tensioners here,
pulley? , you mean idler pulley, sure.
the idler came off at belt off time, the idler is mounted to the pump., (step 12 in my list)
so when off the belt is like HUGE loose and falling off and flapping about.
no that is not how it is done at all.
belt in hand.
the idler is off. (removed)
engine at TDC mark, at 12pm to oil pump arrow head at 12pm
the cam at titty mark at 12pm aligned with matching mark at 12pm on back pan 12pm top.
lash loose, (the lash must be loose to remove cam bias. if not the belt tension-ing step fails. see? why>?
then put on the belt
then make it tight on right side (facing rear of car) no slack on that side
then put on the tensioner.
index tab warnings, on page shows how to do it wrong and right
and there is spring there, see that?> that is the device that sets belt tension for the tensioning steps.
the stud that locks the idler/spring , is loose a bit. so the idler can flop left and right at its will. (a key step here)
then
what youtube video?, you do know that 1/2 the stuff on youtube is crazy wrong , ? (some persons wild ideas of how to guess or whatever , )
Please send the link to youtube so i can have a nice laugh....
the new belt has instructions (GATES does) from china noname .zero
short and sweet, but skips lots of problems to go wrong.
my guess is you skipped lots of steps..
the below is belt only swap so the idler was OFF) and means
that at step (install) #6 , you put on the ildler pulley (its missing)leaving it loose, per step 6, (large center bolt on idler) loose.
the step 7 to 12, (can i assume steps 1 to 5 were done? (install section right side of page?) i can know what you did or skipped, sorry.
-------------------------------omg--------------------------------------------
i used to have page, that was called the Gorilla method of belt changes!
they cut the belt off
then pound the new belt on with a rubber mallet.
2 steps,, and makes some mech. very rich, charging big labor (TIME) for near zero efforts.
watching gorilla videos. are you, i cant guess what you watch, would have to see it to say.
if not done correctly
the belt will be loose, when done wrong, and will beat it self to death soon.
a fact.
the actual tension (done right) is dictated by the thing spring seen in the center above.
it only creates tension at step 8, then at step 9 the spring is defeated, locked down for next 60,000 miles. (call the spring PARKED)
http://www.fixkick.com