Engine finally runs OK, but no real power!

[fixkick]

welcome back.! 8v engine.

Good morning FIXKICK!
Dear Fixkick:
I hope you remember my weekly report on the saga of replacing my car’s engine! As you may remember, I ensured everything on the timing is OK (with strobe light, and ensuring the cylinder #1 at firing cycle, and the distributor at 11 PM position, etc).

PROBLEM: Car starts perfectly, cold idles at 900 RPM, and the cold idle vacuum assisted plunger retracts immediately after starting, but as soon as I put the car in gear, it shuts off.
Moreover, at idle, when I press the pedal to the metal, it immediately goes to 2000 RM, but the motor takes its time for a few seconds (upward to 5-8 secs) for the RPM to gradually go to 3000 , another few seconds to gradually reach to 3500, and finally near 4000 RPM, where it essentially plateaus!
is map sensor connected? wires and vacuum is vacuum reaching it? is the map crushed during engine pull as many are.?



I did the following on the car yesterday:
1. Drained the fuel tank, and replaced the fuel filter, thinking that may be the seven-month old fuel would be the culprit.
2. Checked the resistance of almost all sensors, including the spark plug wires; all within the specs.
3. Took off the EGR valve (which was incidentally replaced with a new one less than 500 miles ago), and checked it.
One of the two holes on the engine where the EGR meets (the one on the right-hand-side, looking at the EGR valve from the passenger-side) had some soot (I would say 70 of the area was unobstructed), all cleaned.
4. Checked the MAP; seems functioning OK. When I pull the hose, the RPM goes down significantly.

Unfortunately, the tablet that ran my RHINO-VIEW mal-functioned (yes, my luck is really amazing these days!).

I could not use the software to check the car, despite the fact I installed it on three other PCs! It, unfortunately, could not communicate with the CPU. That is another issue I have to deal with now! NOT good that.

Well, with the new information, is there anything that comes to your mind that may resolve the issue?
Cheers,
Zackman

first off , i check compression on all old engines, and for sure rebuilt, i never assume engines are good, ever. unless it has full power,. 150psi minimum at sea-level to 1000 feet.
is vacuum steady at idle.? not bouncing? 20" HG is normal. mine id 19"
does CEL glow key on, if not big trouble... then goes out running.
does CEL flash 12 running. (on demand (jumper dlc in place>?)
ECU is bad if 12 are dead (blank), or acting odd, in any strange way, but if say other codes flash then we work those.
injector might be clogged. from bad fuel, it has 10micron screens. removed the screens are in plain site.

does engine get to 180F or more temp hot?
are spark plug tips white or cream or black.
melted cat? the vacuum gauge will act real odd, with throttle gunned.. lags and weak. type cat tests on my page. fixkick.com
is fuel pressure at spec.? not 55psi. not 20;.
but 34-41psi? the higher the altitude the less pressure by action of the FPR. make sure FPR vacuum nipple does not leak fuel.. or its bad for sure.
ECT 300 ohms hot.

it;s not vacuum leaks, they cause full power and high rpm. on TBI.
to be truth full, i check engine first. compression
and be sure cat is not melted.
old suzuki love to go to limphome and melt the cat , at the drop of a hat.




cheers.