02-24-2015, 09:44 AM
the a/f freeze and the 12psi, both raise the boiling point,
but yours is not boiling, the gauge is not overheating,
low fluid helps nothing, only viscosity .
if so the side tank over fills even if you start from empty tank.
that is steam or exhaust.
there is no way to clean a rad. all the chem from long ago are not banned, all they sell now is Organic, GREEN? orange oil, and is useless.
most rad shops are gone, now remember WALTS.? its now WaLTS BRAKES. (end of brass rads, caused)
the old shops used acids to clean brass rads.
now the rads are aluminum, and acid kills one is seconds, so how can you clean delicate and thin aluminum ? now that is the $64,000 dollar question.....
do a compression test yet, for $20
if that passes., do the rad leak down test.
if that passes, its a toss, pump or rad.?
ive removed rad 2 big hoses, and run garden hose top side, and at lower end look? ,full blast pressure, and flow of hose, to see if flow is good.
but yours is not boiling, the gauge is not overheating,
low fluid helps nothing, only viscosity .
if so the side tank over fills even if you start from empty tank.
that is steam or exhaust.
there is no way to clean a rad. all the chem from long ago are not banned, all they sell now is Organic, GREEN? orange oil, and is useless.
most rad shops are gone, now remember WALTS.? its now WaLTS BRAKES. (end of brass rads, caused)
the old shops used acids to clean brass rads.
now the rads are aluminum, and acid kills one is seconds, so how can you clean delicate and thin aluminum ? now that is the $64,000 dollar question.....
do a compression test yet, for $20
if that passes., do the rad leak down test.
if that passes, its a toss, pump or rad.?
ive removed rad 2 big hoses, and run garden hose top side, and at lower end look? ,full blast pressure, and flow of hose, to see if flow is good.
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