So I build the stupid pull-press, cool the shaft in the fridge, heat the bearing in the oven a little, drop it onto the shaft in preparation for pressing, thinking "It'll stop".
Well the dang thing dropped down into place without a bit of effort, and then before i could set the gap, it cooled and locked.
So basically, I'm back to the next to nothing gap I had in the first place. I measured the distance between the race and the ball bearing hole before removing, and that gap is the same, not more, so back to same.
I don't know if that's horrible or will work, or what. Seeing how that locked washer doesn't roll against the race on either side, I'd think it should be alright, hopefully.
Anyhow, good news is, if you heat the bearing, and cool the shaft in the refrigerator, you don't need a press. Bad news is, if you aren't ready, you don't get to set a gap perfectly.
Am letting it all warm/cool back to room temperature, see what's worse or not. I guess only way to fix this if it is a big problem is to pull the bearing, buy a new one and have the feeler gage in place already next time.
????
Noting the fact there are faint score marks on the shaft from the wear over the years (circular at each begin and end of a bearing or washer)..showing all the original locations as to edges and where they lived...
if placing the second ball-locked washer back in place next to the main bearing, that sure looks to live at the exact same place…life might be OK.
If worry got me as far as effort, this thing would be done and I'd have new paint all over too.
rc
There's actually a 0.01 gap there now between the race and that inner washer I was worried about.
So there's actually a little more than there was before (before was .002 I think, barely nothing).
Should be good for continued re-assembly.
{{{ Phew }}}
Next time, only 150 degrees, and gap gage in place first.
Well the dang thing dropped down into place without a bit of effort, and then before i could set the gap, it cooled and locked.
So basically, I'm back to the next to nothing gap I had in the first place. I measured the distance between the race and the ball bearing hole before removing, and that gap is the same, not more, so back to same.
I don't know if that's horrible or will work, or what. Seeing how that locked washer doesn't roll against the race on either side, I'd think it should be alright, hopefully.
Anyhow, good news is, if you heat the bearing, and cool the shaft in the refrigerator, you don't need a press. Bad news is, if you aren't ready, you don't get to set a gap perfectly.
Am letting it all warm/cool back to room temperature, see what's worse or not. I guess only way to fix this if it is a big problem is to pull the bearing, buy a new one and have the feeler gage in place already next time.
????
Noting the fact there are faint score marks on the shaft from the wear over the years (circular at each begin and end of a bearing or washer)..showing all the original locations as to edges and where they lived...
if placing the second ball-locked washer back in place next to the main bearing, that sure looks to live at the exact same place…life might be OK.
If worry got me as far as effort, this thing would be done and I'd have new paint all over too.
rc
There's actually a 0.01 gap there now between the race and that inner washer I was worried about.
So there's actually a little more than there was before (before was .002 I think, barely nothing).
Should be good for continued re-assembly.
{{{ Phew }}}
Next time, only 150 degrees, and gap gage in place first.