ok 95 16v, 2dr
has -70EB0 ECU, out of factory (Cami, no less)
when you jumper the main. you risked shorting 12vdc raw power to the ECU enable pin, if you did that a 1 in 3 chance, the ecu blows out the diode
that enables that relay
that is diode D102 inside ecu, circuit board. boom, it cracks in half and "let the smoke out"
when you key on,
main relay: (3 checks and of good a 4th check (pin))
red-blk wire is at 12vdc hot. use a dmm to back probe this pin, meter black test lead to body shinny metal (ground)
and so is the- black white at relay main. , at 12vdc key on.
and the main blue wire will be at 0.7v (less than 1volt) this is the diode D102 working, if this reads 12vdc, this wire the now, then the diode is blown.
if the above is correct the blue-black main wire goes hot. (relay energizes and the ECU gets full power) and the CEL glows.
see pin A10 on the ECU see that Diode, (used on USA cars, if not USA?, it can have immobilizer options here,so...??)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
if the diode is blown, its not hard to replace. any tech can solder in a new one. for way less than used $100 ECu would cost.
see my ecu page, and this photo ,see A11 marked there real clear. backup 1 pin, that is A10 and below it , is D102 right there.
![[Image: ECU-16v-92w.JPG]](http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-16v-92w.JPG)
A new 1N4004 diode will work (most common diode on earth)
if the diode is burned up the band (cathode) mark may be missing it goes to the right above ( the band is grounded in the PCB)
the goal is to get at key on, 12vdc to the ECU power pins, first. ECU pins A12 and A13, blue-black (blue with black stripe)
try the original relays, if you must swap relays, put the fuel pump relay (green socket) to the main socket. they are same relay.
using wrong relays invites blowing up ECU. if it shorts power to A10 , boom, out come the smoke, every time. like clock work.
has -70EB0 ECU, out of factory (Cami, no less)
when you jumper the main. you risked shorting 12vdc raw power to the ECU enable pin, if you did that a 1 in 3 chance, the ecu blows out the diode
that enables that relay
that is diode D102 inside ecu, circuit board. boom, it cracks in half and "let the smoke out"
when you key on,
main relay: (3 checks and of good a 4th check (pin))
red-blk wire is at 12vdc hot. use a dmm to back probe this pin, meter black test lead to body shinny metal (ground)
and so is the- black white at relay main. , at 12vdc key on.
and the main blue wire will be at 0.7v (less than 1volt) this is the diode D102 working, if this reads 12vdc, this wire the now, then the diode is blown.
if the above is correct the blue-black main wire goes hot. (relay energizes and the ECU gets full power) and the CEL glows.
see pin A10 on the ECU see that Diode, (used on USA cars, if not USA?, it can have immobilizer options here,so...??)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
if the diode is blown, its not hard to replace. any tech can solder in a new one. for way less than used $100 ECu would cost.
see my ecu page, and this photo ,see A11 marked there real clear. backup 1 pin, that is A10 and below it , is D102 right there.
A new 1N4004 diode will work (most common diode on earth)
if the diode is burned up the band (cathode) mark may be missing it goes to the right above ( the band is grounded in the PCB)
the goal is to get at key on, 12vdc to the ECU power pins, first. ECU pins A12 and A13, blue-black (blue with black stripe)
try the original relays, if you must swap relays, put the fuel pump relay (green socket) to the main socket. they are same relay.
using wrong relays invites blowing up ECU. if it shorts power to A10 , boom, out come the smoke, every time. like clock work.
http://www.fixkick.com