pin1 black is ground, 0v
pin 3 blue-bk is power and will most likely run all down to near 9vdc. so it can work as the battery slowly dies. by design.
pin2 gray stipe ,is the output. and is good, so you failed to reset the DTCs and this MAF code is a very old , data no longer, valid?'
those are good signals. dont forget some MAF are intermittant, so tap the side gently when reading pin 2,, does it drop out, that is a bad mAF>
isc is not to be messed with until 34s clear, 34s, kill all ISC actions, during failsafe. you need to learn to clear the dtcs.
pull the dome fuse , count to 5min, and put back.
now see if 34s are clear, sure they are, they must.
then run the engine and be sure 34s dont come back, if they do that gray wire is cut.
the black wire is ground
the MAF is just and electronics board, like the car radio.
it has power and ground, if either fail the circuit has no power supply,
if the ground opens this pin jumps to battery voltage instantly. and the MAF goes to sleep.
same with the 12vdc pin, if it drops below 8v, the maf goes to sleep, goes, DEAD< until power restores.
we need to put 34s to bed, reset the ECU, using the dome fuse, pull..... this must be cured.
and the CEL lamp never stop looking at it, running, it must be out.
i suspect you are not OBD1 savvy, ? all cars have this and all need to be reset the same way. even hondas. and toyoto's and GM .
the only differ. is what fuse to pull.
DOME.
here is a china POS MAF
but shows how they work clearly
![[Image: schem1b.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/china-maf/schem1b.jpg)
DOME = ECU memory pin, the NVRAM power, when allowed to drop to 0v, (or near) it forgets every thing.
now the ISC, the isc only runs idle speed, that is all it does. mostly.
it does other tricks you may never notice, like you cutting throttle fast, in a lower gear and the ECU uses the ISC to prevent driver neck snap,(anti-excessive, deceleration)
it also is used to fast idle, say A/C on.
it just keeps the idle steady. It does not , mix fuel ,it does not.
there are many things that cause it to fail or to be OVERPOWERED. (Ill pretend it works)
1: Fail safe mode kills it dead. (yes, DTC 34 and most others)
2: TPS idle switch not closed.
3: gross under or over injection of fuel.
4: id does other tricks with A/T but yours is M/T
5: gross air vacuum leaks, or IAC stuck wide open hot.
I am not clear on all your symptoms, just 34s;
idle too high or low , 800 hot is normal.?
engine misfiring.?
lost engine power/?
????
The ISC , is pretty must useless at cold start.
the IAC is wide open so the ISC can not over power that gaping air hole
then the IAC closes near 150f
and now the ISC is in command, if the above errors are not happening.
the ECU just watches, RPM and if the RPM drops to say 700 for 1sec, it open the ISC, or if the RPM rises to say 900, it then closes the ISC and returns idle to 800
this action is call and electronic servo, not unlike air craft autopilot, or cruise controls.
the ECU does simple close the valve, if it did that rpm will fall like a brick to 400 rpm and stall.
so the ECU MODULATES it with a 200 hz (read 200 cycles per second) PWM square wave signal, the DUTY CYCLE of said wave, changes the air flow in the ISC.
on a stock hot good engine the duty cycle is about 50% set at the factory (via the bleed screw in the TB)
its set there. by calibration.
if no scope, one can use a DC meter and set it to 7vdc. using said bleed, but some meters, hate 200HZ and are blind to it. or are so slow, during this a/T conversion cycle the meter
is again blind to these pulses.... YMMV your meter may vary.
there are only 3 tools that work, any scope and any real suzuki Duty meter, only 2.. but there are meters sold that do in fact measure this. or a DMM with a duty mode.
step one is no 34s
then step 2 is TPS test.
keep in mind we dont have a real scan tool here.
so are working blind
we must do all the tests of all sensors. to find if and input is wrong. first.
the long hard way.
that is why a 1996 car is more easy to fix. a $9s scan tool works. wonder.s
pin 3 blue-bk is power and will most likely run all down to near 9vdc. so it can work as the battery slowly dies. by design.
pin2 gray stipe ,is the output. and is good, so you failed to reset the DTCs and this MAF code is a very old , data no longer, valid?'
those are good signals. dont forget some MAF are intermittant, so tap the side gently when reading pin 2,, does it drop out, that is a bad mAF>
isc is not to be messed with until 34s clear, 34s, kill all ISC actions, during failsafe. you need to learn to clear the dtcs.
pull the dome fuse , count to 5min, and put back.
now see if 34s are clear, sure they are, they must.
then run the engine and be sure 34s dont come back, if they do that gray wire is cut.
the black wire is ground
the MAF is just and electronics board, like the car radio.
it has power and ground, if either fail the circuit has no power supply,
if the ground opens this pin jumps to battery voltage instantly. and the MAF goes to sleep.
same with the 12vdc pin, if it drops below 8v, the maf goes to sleep, goes, DEAD< until power restores.
we need to put 34s to bed, reset the ECU, using the dome fuse, pull..... this must be cured.
and the CEL lamp never stop looking at it, running, it must be out.
i suspect you are not OBD1 savvy, ? all cars have this and all need to be reset the same way. even hondas. and toyoto's and GM .
the only differ. is what fuse to pull.
DOME.
here is a china POS MAF
but shows how they work clearly
DOME = ECU memory pin, the NVRAM power, when allowed to drop to 0v, (or near) it forgets every thing.
now the ISC, the isc only runs idle speed, that is all it does. mostly.
it does other tricks you may never notice, like you cutting throttle fast, in a lower gear and the ECU uses the ISC to prevent driver neck snap,(anti-excessive, deceleration)
it also is used to fast idle, say A/C on.
it just keeps the idle steady. It does not , mix fuel ,it does not.
there are many things that cause it to fail or to be OVERPOWERED. (Ill pretend it works)
1: Fail safe mode kills it dead. (yes, DTC 34 and most others)
2: TPS idle switch not closed.
3: gross under or over injection of fuel.
4: id does other tricks with A/T but yours is M/T
5: gross air vacuum leaks, or IAC stuck wide open hot.
I am not clear on all your symptoms, just 34s;
idle too high or low , 800 hot is normal.?
engine misfiring.?
lost engine power/?
????
The ISC , is pretty must useless at cold start.
the IAC is wide open so the ISC can not over power that gaping air hole
then the IAC closes near 150f
and now the ISC is in command, if the above errors are not happening.
the ECU just watches, RPM and if the RPM drops to say 700 for 1sec, it open the ISC, or if the RPM rises to say 900, it then closes the ISC and returns idle to 800
this action is call and electronic servo, not unlike air craft autopilot, or cruise controls.
the ECU does simple close the valve, if it did that rpm will fall like a brick to 400 rpm and stall.
so the ECU MODULATES it with a 200 hz (read 200 cycles per second) PWM square wave signal, the DUTY CYCLE of said wave, changes the air flow in the ISC.
on a stock hot good engine the duty cycle is about 50% set at the factory (via the bleed screw in the TB)
its set there. by calibration.
if no scope, one can use a DC meter and set it to 7vdc. using said bleed, but some meters, hate 200HZ and are blind to it. or are so slow, during this a/T conversion cycle the meter
is again blind to these pulses.... YMMV your meter may vary.
there are only 3 tools that work, any scope and any real suzuki Duty meter, only 2.. but there are meters sold that do in fact measure this. or a DMM with a duty mode.
step one is no 34s
then step 2 is TPS test.
keep in mind we dont have a real scan tool here.
so are working blind
we must do all the tests of all sensors. to find if and input is wrong. first.
the long hard way.
that is why a 1996 car is more easy to fix. a $9s scan tool works. wonder.s
http://www.fixkick.com