(08-15-2014, 02:27 AM)fixkick Wrote: nice work all that.... very nice job
that is the way to fix ths, blocking all air sources
do not forget the TB on this car has an idle stop screw for hot idle duty cycle settings.
i can not help until i know true engine tempratures. this is KEY.
As the engine warms to 180F, as it passes 150F, near, the IAC in the base of the TB closed 100% if not , it will never idle right again.
the loop is the ECu failing to stop air flows with the ISC.
the TBI system is dirty when cold EPA dirty. the TBI uses a wet fuel induction, so to reduce smog they run fast idle for a long time
the TB based IAC does that.
then closes and the ISC takes over.
so what does do hot....??? cold is ok, 2000 rpm is normal but mine was 1500 in summer. dead cold. but varies. by actuals.
does engine reach 180F this is the first key factor.
the video is all cold. why ?
if idle is high hot, ? then block the ISC port like you did above, get about 500rpm even less. hot
if it races still hot, leave the above block in place
now block the iAC. in the base, doing this is tricky. the cover screws can be rusty. or find its port in the upper section
also make sure the TB center gasket is not bad, cracked and sucked in, as most are. this old.
if the ISC is open hot, its bad.
this slide photo is 1991 but the IAC in base is SAME.
http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/Slide_S...age_8.html
see those checks?
the IAC input port on mine is square
seen at 1pm here. left photo, and the radiused port there. clay here will work i think too.
i liked booking at the 3 hole plate only to reduce likelyhood of dropping something in the main air valve bore, throttle valve.
but for sure there are 2 ports. to block, easiest im not sure. luck happens.
ok, so thats where I got, blocked isc and that didn't change anything, so i covered up the hole on the intake for the iac, with some duck tape and the idle dropped. I just ran it to temp and took temp readings at various placed. If the iac is supposed to get to 150+ it doesn't look like thats happening.
below stat - 175f
above stat - 140f
top radiator tank - 140f
bottom radiator tank - 110f
water pump coolant distribution housing tube - 175f
black hose going to iac - 126f
actual iac housing - 88 f
I tried to unscrew the iac plate and two of the screws rounded off. So if I can't get the plate off, do you think a guy could shoot silicone inside the iac port to block it off, or would that be a bad idea...or is that even my problem