08-18-2014, 03:35 AM
one simple tests, works on may parts, thermostat. IAC, and the EGRT.
room temp
then boiling water test.
like a charm. if the probe is not packed in carbon, if packed, its all hopeless. even with a perfectly working EGR.
The probe extends in to the flow of exhaust, it must or will read wrong, packed up.
main gasket:
yes, the embossed, lips. surely it can work, if put back exactly same way. its new and fresh. Id never re use an head gasket, but others have done it many a time and no one leak.
but fate is a bummer sometimes...
drops to 45k, ohms 45,000 ,
keep in mind, i dont think suzuki tell the trip point, but i dont have the 94 FSM to look that up on 51 page.
but surely it can hit 212F easy, 100C. the exh is very hot. 11.2 to 13.6k ohms 13,600 ohms no higher.
id clean it and pan test it. its very easy to get boiling water. even a camp stove if wife kicks you out of house.... mine wont. she's a doll.
yes, and sorry you roasted your hands,,on car test is not easy, non are.
the last thing,is I do know know if the rear wheels need to turn , to get a live test.
i just dont know this,,there are 4 ECUs used, and the books don't say , unless you have a real 1994 FSM. i dont.
my trick is:
what I do , is use my voltmeter to see what the VSV does. (meter on the 2 pins )
0 volts is valve open, VSV removed is open valve, oddly. (at idle all years, this pin pair reads, 12v at idle) i use back probe needles or leather needles (sold at walfart for a buck) <in a pinch.
12volts is closed,
using this logic, i can see if ECU is , a moving ECU or not. (rear drive shaft moving ,even dead slow)
i cheat.
i do it this way because the valve might be bad. and using a simple vacuum test, i can get fooled easy.
keep in mind the ported vacuum has no vacuum at idle (top hose is dead, on top of TB (egr nipple line) at idle. "a ported vacuum orifice in the TB"
then you raise throttle (u like details>)?) and TB ported vacuum hits this line to the VSV, the ECU drops the ground, it send to the VSV and the valve opens sending full vacuum to the MOD
but one odd thing here, is that the mod valve has a vent "V". and if stuck open will kill the vacuum too. tricky beast huh?
you could also attach the VSV output line to any vacuum gauge (mod valve is now dead) and see if racing the hot motor gets you a strong vacuum over 8 inches is strong,
VSV is here.
in this photo the cars VSV top cap filter is broken off. this vent , vents the line to the MOD valve, so it can trap a vacuum there, valve off.
with 0v on those 2 pins the VSV valve is open, Vacuum Solenoid valve.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/16v-engine93w.jpg
if the car runs vaccum out the VSV, hot raised throttle. (race motor a tad)
and you get vacuum, one more trick if the MAIN dont pull in, is to
take that hose off the MOD, the large hose.
and and a long test hose to this nipple the bark nipple.
and blow on it, with lips. bam the MOD , stops venting and full vacuum goes to the main and it pulls in .
I hope my hints help you !
room temp
then boiling water test.
like a charm. if the probe is not packed in carbon, if packed, its all hopeless. even with a perfectly working EGR.
The probe extends in to the flow of exhaust, it must or will read wrong, packed up.
main gasket:
yes, the embossed, lips. surely it can work, if put back exactly same way. its new and fresh. Id never re use an head gasket, but others have done it many a time and no one leak.
but fate is a bummer sometimes...
drops to 45k, ohms 45,000 ,
keep in mind, i dont think suzuki tell the trip point, but i dont have the 94 FSM to look that up on 51 page.
but surely it can hit 212F easy, 100C. the exh is very hot. 11.2 to 13.6k ohms 13,600 ohms no higher.
id clean it and pan test it. its very easy to get boiling water. even a camp stove if wife kicks you out of house.... mine wont. she's a doll.
yes, and sorry you roasted your hands,,on car test is not easy, non are.
the last thing,is I do know know if the rear wheels need to turn , to get a live test.
i just dont know this,,there are 4 ECUs used, and the books don't say , unless you have a real 1994 FSM. i dont.
my trick is:
what I do , is use my voltmeter to see what the VSV does. (meter on the 2 pins )
0 volts is valve open, VSV removed is open valve, oddly. (at idle all years, this pin pair reads, 12v at idle) i use back probe needles or leather needles (sold at walfart for a buck) <in a pinch.
12volts is closed,
using this logic, i can see if ECU is , a moving ECU or not. (rear drive shaft moving ,even dead slow)
i cheat.
i do it this way because the valve might be bad. and using a simple vacuum test, i can get fooled easy.
keep in mind the ported vacuum has no vacuum at idle (top hose is dead, on top of TB (egr nipple line) at idle. "a ported vacuum orifice in the TB"
then you raise throttle (u like details>)?) and TB ported vacuum hits this line to the VSV, the ECU drops the ground, it send to the VSV and the valve opens sending full vacuum to the MOD
but one odd thing here, is that the mod valve has a vent "V". and if stuck open will kill the vacuum too. tricky beast huh?
you could also attach the VSV output line to any vacuum gauge (mod valve is now dead) and see if racing the hot motor gets you a strong vacuum over 8 inches is strong,
VSV is here.
in this photo the cars VSV top cap filter is broken off. this vent , vents the line to the MOD valve, so it can trap a vacuum there, valve off.
with 0v on those 2 pins the VSV valve is open, Vacuum Solenoid valve.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/16v-engine93w.jpg
if the car runs vaccum out the VSV, hot raised throttle. (race motor a tad)
and you get vacuum, one more trick if the MAIN dont pull in, is to
take that hose off the MOD, the large hose.
and and a long test hose to this nipple the bark nipple.
and blow on it, with lips. bam the MOD , stops venting and full vacuum goes to the main and it pulls in .
I hope my hints help you !
http://www.fixkick.com