i think the ECU is fine, and all else, its timed wrong, or you forgot to put back all the wires as they where.
what was the job, JUST the dizzy o-ring?
did you first take off the dizzy cap and then set the crank to DTC with rotor , pointing to #1 cap spark wire? if not may be the other guy timed it any of the other 3 ways.
if you did do that, first, then we must start from scratch.
why is the dizzy dust shield marked wrong.
did you accidentally drop off this ground/? clip
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/dizzy-gnd1w.jpg
(that clip ground very important 1996 engine ground.)
did you re-seat the dizzy side primary connector? to be sure its fully seated, (342 is bad connections to dizzy or dizzy case not grounded.) and no spark , did you test for spark>?
the dizzy has 13 tooth gear, can be inserted 12 wrong ways.
in the photos , is the crank gear set to TDC mark at 12PM? or pulley to the marks, some pulleys stip out and its best to check timing before a take down to witness this before hand.
CEL comes on when? key on is NORMAL that is the self test. and since it dont run, that is why the cel is on, its in continuous selft test. the engine must go past about 400 rpm for the
ECU to think ,hey ,im running (way faster that starter speeds) and turn off the CEL.
if you crank the motor with the dizzy unpugged 34x codes will happen. it self clears fast, as soon as the cmp wakes up.
1: got spark?
2: does timing light show spark at #1 landing on near 0degr, crank pulley.
3: the voltmeter at pin 3 dizzy plug white wire will pulse. as cranked, but why do that , the ECU monitors that all the time, and 34x if it fails for 1 in 10 pulse,
here is my photo with no (low) parallax error,
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...zy1c1w.jpg
there are 4 way to time it. all 4 ways run, despite harness fitting issues.
this photo off my 96 shows how the rotor alignes to #1
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...zy1a1w.jpg
and here
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...b1w%29.jpg
on some sidekicks, i think due to alternator seize up and owner set belt tighter every day, to stop the squeal, (theory) they wreck the crank pulley rubber damper bond and the pulley slips inside
destroying the timing, that is why i check that very carefully first. by checking with a timing light before pulling any DIZZY,
the cure is here. (discovery)
if crank is at pulley TDC 0 degr., is the lifter lash loose on #1 cylinder, no ? oops...... find out why not.
this is the only TDC that matters, 8v , has same pump marks
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16v-crank-cog1.jpg
the cog on a 16v looks just like this. 1996 up.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/snouts/html/image_1.html
the first test is spark got spark.?
NO?
then cap off, rotor off. and connect a spark plug (some way) to that hidden coil tower in your photo, spark plug grounded to engine, got spark now?
even timed totally wrong,(cam/dizzy) the tower HV tests passes the spark test. A BIG CLUE.
342, is not in the FSM list. odd that.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/96DTC-ECU1.jpg
but its CMP ,im sure. it is common for books to miss codes. too common. seen it vast times.
good job that, cranking with OBD2 connected to see if you have errors, does the scan tool show 300rpm or near cranking, that too is a good sign that all engine RPM sensors are working.
that cam cog shows #1 off about 10 degrees or more. is the pulley on 0 or 10? degr?
and is retarded 10. or more. why?
is the rotor installed wrong, it only fits 1 way. and if removed and put on wrong, it will never work.
only this way works
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-rotor-IGN1.JPG
the flats are not the same size.
if all else fails.
say spark is good at the tower rod.
and rotor is on right. (btw your rotor looks ok in photo , but can see crank marks)
and spark timing is way off. to #1 cranking, the timing light dont lie, at crank or running. it just works.
and at wits end.
check that piston is at true TDC, using a tool or some method. true TDC of piston.
then see of your pulley is at 0, if not the pulley is wrong.
I have one 20 degrees off in my attic box of junk.
what was the job, JUST the dizzy o-ring?
did you first take off the dizzy cap and then set the crank to DTC with rotor , pointing to #1 cap spark wire? if not may be the other guy timed it any of the other 3 ways.
if you did do that, first, then we must start from scratch.
why is the dizzy dust shield marked wrong.
did you accidentally drop off this ground/? clip
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/dizzy-gnd1w.jpg
(that clip ground very important 1996 engine ground.)
did you re-seat the dizzy side primary connector? to be sure its fully seated, (342 is bad connections to dizzy or dizzy case not grounded.) and no spark , did you test for spark>?
the dizzy has 13 tooth gear, can be inserted 12 wrong ways.
in the photos , is the crank gear set to TDC mark at 12PM? or pulley to the marks, some pulleys stip out and its best to check timing before a take down to witness this before hand.
CEL comes on when? key on is NORMAL that is the self test. and since it dont run, that is why the cel is on, its in continuous selft test. the engine must go past about 400 rpm for the
ECU to think ,hey ,im running (way faster that starter speeds) and turn off the CEL.
if you crank the motor with the dizzy unpugged 34x codes will happen. it self clears fast, as soon as the cmp wakes up.
1: got spark?
2: does timing light show spark at #1 landing on near 0degr, crank pulley.
3: the voltmeter at pin 3 dizzy plug white wire will pulse. as cranked, but why do that , the ECU monitors that all the time, and 34x if it fails for 1 in 10 pulse,
here is my photo with no (low) parallax error,
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...zy1c1w.jpg
there are 4 way to time it. all 4 ways run, despite harness fitting issues.
this photo off my 96 shows how the rotor alignes to #1
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...zy1a1w.jpg
and here
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16-rea...b1w%29.jpg
on some sidekicks, i think due to alternator seize up and owner set belt tighter every day, to stop the squeal, (theory) they wreck the crank pulley rubber damper bond and the pulley slips inside
destroying the timing, that is why i check that very carefully first. by checking with a timing light before pulling any DIZZY,
the cure is here. (discovery)
if crank is at pulley TDC 0 degr., is the lifter lash loose on #1 cylinder, no ? oops...... find out why not.
this is the only TDC that matters, 8v , has same pump marks
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16v-crank-cog1.jpg
the cog on a 16v looks just like this. 1996 up.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/snouts/html/image_1.html
the first test is spark got spark.?
NO?
then cap off, rotor off. and connect a spark plug (some way) to that hidden coil tower in your photo, spark plug grounded to engine, got spark now?
even timed totally wrong,(cam/dizzy) the tower HV tests passes the spark test. A BIG CLUE.
342, is not in the FSM list. odd that.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/96DTC-ECU1.jpg
but its CMP ,im sure. it is common for books to miss codes. too common. seen it vast times.
good job that, cranking with OBD2 connected to see if you have errors, does the scan tool show 300rpm or near cranking, that too is a good sign that all engine RPM sensors are working.
that cam cog shows #1 off about 10 degrees or more. is the pulley on 0 or 10? degr?
and is retarded 10. or more. why?
is the rotor installed wrong, it only fits 1 way. and if removed and put on wrong, it will never work.
only this way works
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-rotor-IGN1.JPG
the flats are not the same size.
if all else fails.
say spark is good at the tower rod.
and rotor is on right. (btw your rotor looks ok in photo , but can see crank marks)
and spark timing is way off. to #1 cranking, the timing light dont lie, at crank or running. it just works.
and at wits end.
check that piston is at true TDC, using a tool or some method. true TDC of piston.
then see of your pulley is at 0, if not the pulley is wrong.
I have one 20 degrees off in my attic box of junk.
http://www.fixkick.com