on a hot or warm engine
the factory spec is.
My 91 8 valve, pulls 155 psi. (dead cold at 72F) Suzuki FSM stated, minimum spec for hot coolant is 170 PSI
any cheap gauge can be off 5psi easy.
also, Altitude drops compression.
cold is less, because the cylinders are not fully round yet. (factory bores, are drilled, hot for best seal running - 2nd reason is the head bolts the most tight hot, and cylinder were bored with dummy head plate bolted on , so that hot cylinder deformation is zero, hot.)
1: heater core is leaking, making that sweet AF smell. (we have page for that)
2: idle regulation is complex.
are you using only the idle bleed screw to adjust the idle?
it is idling at 1000 and dies?
the #1 cause of any stall on 8v is EGR sticking open, the 8v ECU opens the electric IAC (isc) and prevents any stall, only the EGR can prevent the ISC (aND ECU SOFTWARE) from
preventing the stall.
here is a short hit list. Hot stall.s
A: EGR, stuck open..
B: ISC dirty, yours is new, so the TPS was set wrong. the idle switch must be closed at idle.
C: any illegal air leak.
D: the dash pot must not be holding the throttle open at idle. (5-30after any cold start)
E: CEL not glowing, running, (limp home mode there are no idle controls)
this changes all the time, cant keep it straight (idle or spark timing?)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/idle-index-home.html
low idle (EGR is #1 cause) below is no order.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/idle-too...20bad.html
we can fix all probs. by simple tests.
the EGR must snap shut. easy. or its dirty.
The ISC must be clean. (yours is)
There must not be any induction air leaks, putting the ISC out of range (duty cycle all wrong)
air leaks never cause stalling only racing RPM with 100% full horse power.
that stalling is EGR or flooding.(gross misfire)
1000 feet 170psi times .97 is 165 PSI. (just a tiny bit of altitude , drops compression) per table below. FSM table.
![[Image: altitude-x.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/specs/altitude-x.jpg)
the factory spec is.
My 91 8 valve, pulls 155 psi. (dead cold at 72F) Suzuki FSM stated, minimum spec for hot coolant is 170 PSI
any cheap gauge can be off 5psi easy.
also, Altitude drops compression.
cold is less, because the cylinders are not fully round yet. (factory bores, are drilled, hot for best seal running - 2nd reason is the head bolts the most tight hot, and cylinder were bored with dummy head plate bolted on , so that hot cylinder deformation is zero, hot.)
1: heater core is leaking, making that sweet AF smell. (we have page for that)
2: idle regulation is complex.
are you using only the idle bleed screw to adjust the idle?
it is idling at 1000 and dies?
the #1 cause of any stall on 8v is EGR sticking open, the 8v ECU opens the electric IAC (isc) and prevents any stall, only the EGR can prevent the ISC (aND ECU SOFTWARE) from
preventing the stall.
here is a short hit list. Hot stall.s
A: EGR, stuck open..
B: ISC dirty, yours is new, so the TPS was set wrong. the idle switch must be closed at idle.
C: any illegal air leak.
D: the dash pot must not be holding the throttle open at idle. (5-30after any cold start)
E: CEL not glowing, running, (limp home mode there are no idle controls)
this changes all the time, cant keep it straight (idle or spark timing?)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/idle-index-home.html
low idle (EGR is #1 cause) below is no order.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/idle-too...20bad.html
we can fix all probs. by simple tests.
the EGR must snap shut. easy. or its dirty.
The ISC must be clean. (yours is)
There must not be any induction air leaks, putting the ISC out of range (duty cycle all wrong)
air leaks never cause stalling only racing RPM with 100% full horse power.
that stalling is EGR or flooding.(gross misfire)
1000 feet 170psi times .97 is 165 PSI. (just a tiny bit of altitude , drops compression) per table below. FSM table.
http://www.fixkick.com