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Throttle Body/Throttle Position Sensor
#9
ok, you drove it for years with CEL glowing , P0400, see car runs perfectly like that,  see?  might need high octane fuel to not PING tiny bit sure..
the 500RPM is  very serious, matter,!
no you did not understand me on EGR, these old cars LOVE to fail EGR, and yours is new not old (main) the EGR, on old  car  and old  EGR love to STICK open at stops signals.
you roll to a stop foot off gas pedal and the ECU commands EGR closed now, and it STICKS open and engine shakes real hard, (like a wet dog "misfiring horribly) and and 400 RPM is possible  now and  pr stalls stalls  easy now.
when I say main that that means the huge heavy, EGR main on rear of intake running #4 , way way in back  of engine. OK?
no that is not your cause, YOUR EGR MAIN is new, and it DOES NOT STICK, the EGR closes because the EBAY VSV cuts  vacuum to it, and closes, that is why I told you do defeat the EGR main so the bad EBAY parts can't keep it open , see? then go drive for 4more years CEL  glowing and no problems.. LOL

EGR CUT (commanded off) at Idle switch closed(TPS) , Idle EGR vacuum TB port blocked, VSV turned off, at idle and at WOt EGR is cut off.
The TPS idle switch dead makes the ISC dead, but not the EGR because of 2 other reasons stated in line just above/
if the TPS idle switch never was calibrated and stuck open there will be NO ISC (controls) ISC means IDLE SPEED CONTROL (a ASE standard name)  dead.. ISC means idle is OUT OF CONTROL by logic and facts, that is why most shops get this wrong, and can not read the FSM , on how to do it, they are to busy making money to read....(sarc.. off)


the idle  switch is inside the TPS, on all sidekicks G16 .
the ECU + ISC control hot idle speeds at all times, , the bleed screw you messed with , sets ISC duty cycle NOT RPM,  
if you find that the bleed screw (missing black dust cap now) is turned and hot idle speeds change that means ISC is bad or OFFLINE..
TIP-in throttle, when you are driving and you move the right toe, and tip the pedal fast that is TIP-IN , acceleration request by you and TPS tells ECU you did that and ECU then goes to magic Enrich mode, (or if not the engine bogs a bit, better word, hesitation) this happens and ends when the MAF catches up to air  flows and fuel mixtures recover ,and Enrich mode ends in seconds..
if you DO WOT< (aka pedal to the metal)  wide open throttle (TPS  signals) the ECU goes to WOT mode, runs rich at about 12:1 AFR air to fuel ratio and 95HP happens NOW
WOT also ends all EGR actions (VSV from Ebay closes)

You do know parts on EBAY are used, even older far older than your car or miles,or just plane wrong! /bad etc, , you do know that right?
here is correct part.  the 60B00 number there is SUZUKI,  and not there on one of millions of Toyota that look same but are NOT THE SAME AT ALL.. 18112-60b00   95-98
PRE 95 IS ENDS IN 55a00 CODE.. WHAT ARE YOUR NUMBERS.?
[Image: EGR-mod-apart2.JPG]

The 500 RPM is all wrong, if the engine misfires at 500 ( I CANT hear it do that) but if does that mostly normal due to 500 RPM is a for SURE ILLEGAL RPM,
in the sense that the MAF does no work at 500 well nor does other things in the EFI system nor vacuum in proper range. etc .etc.
what matters is how it GOT TO 500 RPM in the first place. to SEE THAT we USER our RIGHT HAND and raise the TV cable lever on the TB and raise the throttle Valve (TV) by hand
go attain 800 RPM by HAnd THE HARD WAY, IF This works as it must we then note not (listen and look) to see if 800 RPM is smooth and not misfiring,


500 RPM is not caused by EGR, if you simple defeat your brand new , EGR MAIN,  gee did you buy EGR that is for 1995 and Calif version with the EGRT sensor removed and the EGR
is sucking air in that very missing EGR EGRT screw in port, and now the MAF cant do its job, due to you letting this huge air suck in at the EGR main,.  sorry cant see your EGR no can do.
see ISC here..

500 RPM causes.. more simple?

a new EGR on a good engine (passes compression tests ) are.: (egr defeated with GOLF tee'd  vacuum line pulled, EGR is now closed and no way possible now to leak exhaust ever.

  1. Engine misfiring, for any reasons,  bad fuel in tank , bad spark, timed wrong, or  bad fueling rates (injections rates all wrong for this RPM !,) (we find this first if true)
  2. CAT ,melted, is not it, engine you said has full power at WOT, so CAT IS NOT A wreck , so we can skip this  CAT failure.
  3. TPS not calibrated just thrown on, and now TPS idle switch is dead , and for that error ISC is now dead . 100% dead..
  4. ISC  dead, or is stuck, yes they stick as often as EGR, due to EGA-PCV gasses from GUNK that gets inside the ISC and packs it up with gunk ,I simple clean it and bench test it and put it a bad on the plenum box
  5. MAF weak, (easy tests see maf test on my fixkick.com page, type  maf tests in the search box and bingo.
  6. huge vacuum leaks can render the ISC DEAD OR , can render it ineffective but you passed the smoke test. so not this..
a good mechanic knows that and knows how to diagnose misfire, and rich AFR, or all causes of Misfire, he needs to know how to diagnose all that. or fails.. They failed you, sure.

this is ISC, clear as day, and is electric modulated Air value (solenoid air valve ) that modulates 200 times a second. The ECU does that modulation magic.
the Idle switch must be closed or this below is dead. (hot idle closed)

[Image: IAC2w2.jpg]


here is the factory page on TPS tests  (calibration is other pages in the manual using a meter and 1 feeler gauge)
see pin 2 that is IDLE switch only
on a hot running engine, pin 2 is 0vdc volts DC  if not idle switch is failing, (or set wrong) or TV plate packed up in GUNK, blocking full TV closure.
if pin 2 reads 5 vdc hot  idle that is WRONG ! AT IDLE HOT,  95 is same as 96 up in this regard , how do you like my schematic I added, for CLARITY.
The TPS is 2 things not one, it is the switch and the resistor side (POT) is THROTTLE ANGLE (new names that)


[Image: 95-TPS-adj1w.jpg]


the spot to do CALIBRATION  BELOW is at the nEver ever touch me screw (aka.. idle stop screw , factory set for ever)  0.026" gauge, tool and fiddle only TPS screws.
see that nut below that is a JAM nut  do not touch it ever. never loosen it ever. ok?
i USES  .001" AND .025" BLADE STACKED, and inserted in the throttle stop gap, below and then release the TV  and set the TPS so the idle switch just closes electrically

[Image: Tb-95-a.jpg]
[/url]
[url=https://fixkick.com/tps-testing#hopeless]as seem here



if done correctly the idle switch works perfectly  every time, and then the ISC goes ONLINE and works too if it is not stuck that is.


500 RPM is cause by , 2 things, mostly  , gross misfiring simply a dead ISC..  ( not all things consider just your things, due to tests and EGR defeated ,,etc)

the ISC can stick , or idle switch dead making ISC dead.

the test above, by playing with the dont touch idle bleed screw (black cap missing) is ok now to play that screw air bleeder is IDLE DUTY cycle setting NOT IDLE SPEED
but now that that as messed up (DUTY) you can now play with it, (count turns now)
  • logic,  hot engine, hot idle 500 rpm.. wrong ,dead wrong !
  • logic,  turn the screw CCW counter clock wise , more air.. if engine RPM rises that means ISC IS DEAD..   hard cold prove and needs to be corrected
photo off my DUTY setting page
[Image: TB-w1.jpg]


ON the TB the TV is inside,  1996 mine. 2door 4wd, 5sp rag top
mod to left
ISC to right lower..
egr port top center of TB. (no vacuum there at idle, called EGR ported vacuum nipple here)


when buying parts on ebay  learn that many part are old  and bad or just plain wrong, endless that, I buy them 3 times just to get one correct and good part.
suzuki sells these parts, in many cases only they  have them new. only the price is high.(only)
the sad part of all this  is not just replacing EGR main and defeating, it then fixing the real problems,  P0400 , all during all testing, all the time igrored, fully. until (EGR must work later and last of ALL THINGS,)
add more bad parts guessing is never going to be easy , cheaper or, fun.. not ever. (or will compound problems, making simple cause hard to find and prove,  adding bad parts to was good parts before)

sure  a mechanic in real shop by other rules ( they use new parts not used)
he sees ISC dead, trashes it and finds new one and sees it fails too.
so finds TPS bad (pin2 at 5v), replaces it sees it still fails, then find out (omg read the manual) it needs to be calibrated, to get idle switch working ( 1997 sorry no TPS auto-cal BACK Then)
then he fixes that and ISC is still dead. (means 800rpm impossible)gets 500 hard fail. still. dang, this is hard.
I finds out.. signals to ISC are dead no 200Hz square wave and ECU is bad. (man has scope and knows how to use it, wow)
or finds That ok,  but maf is dead (or super weak or even intermittent but gee my MAF page covers that.... fully and with FSM backup and real testing to prove all that.
or vacuum leaks huge and that makes very lean burn and results in a low RPM. (no air/vacuum leaks from MAF to intake valves, are bad leaks)
MAF is a huge leak it self but is metered air if maf is dirty it lies and report low air and engine goes max lean. (and your O2 is dead so it is no help to correct any weak MAF)
The TV is not a air leak it is closed at idle 99.99% closed.

on a normal engine the only leaks are, metered air, (means maf measured) MASS AIR FLOW sensor it is, (the PCM computes injection rates from all MAF readings even at idle)
the only valid leaks are HOT ENGINE ISC and bleed,  (and some nasty air from PCV valve) EGR is closed and defeated now if wise, put EGR back online when all else is ok.


air leak = vacuum leaks, , same.. some are normal others not.
the goal of the system is get all air flows , going only through the MAF and never any place else or the AFR air fuel ratio can go lean for sure O2 dead..

hope that helps you in some small way.  good luck to you, sorry the shops cant fix idle.
if engine misfires ,make them fix that, and idle wrong.. hot idle is 800, 750 is low spec, high spec it 850 , AC off.
if AC on it's 1000RPM if you turn on AC and 1000 hot RPM is wrong then
ISC is dead... as a door nail
if true we do more tests, that is how this works, find what fails , then why  and correct why.
http://www.fixkick.com
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RE: Throttle Body/Throttle Position Sensor - by fixkick - 03-15-2020, 09:20 PM

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