(04-02-2019, 11:56 PM)CSUSBgeochem1 Wrote: So i read everything and i have had some success but wanted to run it by you. I checked to make sure the belt was tight and everything was perfect when it comes to timing the crank, cam and distributor. The code was still being thrown so i took your advice and went to time it with the strobe.
When i inserted the freeze jumper to the DLC the CODE DISAPPEARED! When ran with the short there is no code thrown. I accidentally broke my timing light and need to pick a new one up today but ill make sure to time it correctly. I hope this fixes the problem but its nice to see the engine not throwing a code. Ill check to see if the ECU is the right one as it has a giant Mitsubishi logo on the case so i definitely need to check that.
OK this is how PCM work
with the jumper inserted the PCM (ecu) goes into a very special mode, in this case it freezes timing, spark. and also will be very upset if you drive like that and burn up the CAT, (it will go red HOT from unburned fuel lacking proper spark advaNCE) AND WILL IN FACT THROW A DTC, code for driving link that,
Idling is Ok. Frozen advance.
I can also name many other things that hide 335 or any 300s codes.
300s are misfire codes, the ECU hides all those in limhome mode, (dead sensors cause that)
the 420 code is hidden if the the front 02 is bad. after all how can it test the rear if the front is dead,
OBD2 logic is complex. the rule is fix lower codes first, then when those are cured, you may get more codes, as you fix things more OBD2 live testing WAKES UP and runs, those are all called OBD2 Monitors (live diagnostics they are)
my spark page also covers all ways for the freeze to fail.
1: engine not HOT 180F or more, or the ECT is lying dog. (bad) or thermostat missing or dead or weak or wrong one.)
2: hot idle not 800RPM + - 50 rpm,
3: idle switch on TPS not stuck at 5v, 0vdc is closed, and must be or freeze can not do its job, and is calibration of the TPS wrong.
4: huge vacuum leaks that make RPM wrong. (or other air fuel issues, extreme wrong causing IDLE speeds wrong) even EGR leaking.
learn that fuel can not be burned fully with advance at 0 advance, (other than at idle) The whole purpose of advance is to burn all fuel at any RPM and any engine load. this is true on all gas (petro) otto cycle engine's ...
The timing freeze real name is.
test switch terminal.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML
I like to call this freeze, to make this clear.
later Suzuki removed this and only suzuki scan tools can do this, until the COP spark engines happened.
the J18 and J20 engines the CKP sensors sets spark timing exactly behind the flywheel and no distributor at all called DIS , ignition.
but your car is distributor timed, once timed the ECU does advance with MATH.
pure math,
total advance = base + CPU math advance. ( on modern cars BASE is now non adjustable with a very precision CKP sensor and mount with no slots)
timing freeze , sets math advance to 0... making only the mechanical base stop bolt on the distributor base sets static timing
or cam timing way off. and is always first and the belt set right, not too tight or too loose.
if loose it bounces (cam and spark)
if set too tight the belt will die soon from huge stresses. the tension only gets set every 60,000 miles , new belt day.
the very tiny spring there (below cam cog) does that, and then it is locked down, for 60,000 miles.
the cam will not jog or jitter, if done right. (the steps are a pain G16B , 16v, as all lash must be set loose to get the belt tension correct, yes trick)
the cam has huge bias with the 16x lash set to spec. and means the belt can NOT be tension-ed at all like that, so read only the G16B procedures not A.
if you ignore that fact above, the belt will be way too LOOSE!!!
OBD2 , P0300 codes will trip if the belt runs loose. misfire, codes, need to know crank exact location and what cylinder is firing, exactly.
355 is pure ckp errors of some kind. (dead or dropouts and maybe (IDK) bouncing.
http://www.fixkick.com