(03-29-2019, 12:50 PM)CSUSBgeochem1 Wrote: Sorry for the long wait!! Well the conversion fell through at the moment so Im focused now on this sensor. I repaired the keyway just like you have on your page. Was able to get my hands on the Locktite 660 quick metal. I tried to get the center of the key lined up with the line on the cog and the arrow on the pump housing the best i could. Having the head off the block made it easy to see when the piston was flush with the block and at TDC. I let it sit for 2 days then took an impact to the crank bolt so i know its tight.
I threw everything back together and am still getting the code. Plug was replaced with a new one so thats fine. I backprobed the ECU for input from the CKP and it shows the AC voltage. I also tested the CMP at the ECU and saw 2.4v on the DMM. Also checked the reference voltage of the ECU and it was at a perfect 5v.
Everything is lined up at the crank cog and cam. Im a little frustrated at this moment. I will make SURE the reluctor wheel is right on the sensor when the cam is lined up but after that im not sure. What do you think so far?
TDC crank:
crank TDC at piston is, turn crank CW to TDC then do it in reverse CCW up. and the different of the 2 checks is true TDC. The key was perfect, but now finding true TDC, must be done carefully. from 2 directions, CW and CCW, then tRUE TDC is in the middle of those 2 marks.
The instruction for the special tool. explains this technique... i can also show links to this method. (some motorcycles have no TDC marks so this is a known method)
CMP comments:
CMP did you first set spark timing to spec? (using the timing freeze jumper? hot 800 RPM?) The ecu uses CMP to see CKP errors.
Read that as the ECU assumes the CMP is OKAY, then measures CKP for errors. (this is all it knows is that and drop outs of CKP)
CMP is hall sensor with perfect square-wave. 0 , 5v then 0v.
CPM below photo: ,
(if using a DMM< gee 1000s of models of DMM made and all do different things) but using DCV may show 1/2 of the signal due to DMM averaging, but if dead the there is no spark nor any fueling ever. with dead CMP. and mostly never fails. but timing wrong can cause errors and odd DTC's.
If you had true RMS DMM and used ACV, AC volts it might read 5vac. (IDK , I do not have such a meter TRUE RMS they are expensive)
CMP on a real scope:
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/CAS-91.jpg
Theory:
The CKP failure is 1 or 2 ways ( dropouts, or way off timed, I am not sure if both ways are true but is on 99% of all cars made)
for sure dropout is 1 sure way it sets DTC 335. (1 in 20? misses) it sets.
The spark timing would be good to set first.
The CKP might work better.... with timing set right (spark timing with timing light (witht iming freeze jumper inserted in DLC jack)
bad CKP, or being stood off the block too far, by illegal pan gasket, there is no 96-98 shipped new out of factory with any pan gasket. ever.
the CKP tone wheel cog ,does it have the same number of teeth like my photos? not some cog off some , Esteem G16B?
The wiring bad. (means connectors too) CKP
The shields on that CKP cable not grounded. (or on custom harnessed , missing?)
Cam belt jumping around due to not setting the tension per the manual ( the hand turning steps (2 turns) then lock down method)
more RARE:
Loose cam. end to end there is Huge cog wheel front that can crack or go lose, and the gear on the back end lose or same on the matching gear in the distributor bottom end lose. (has locking pins on dizzy gear. see some with carpenter nails for pins.)
I think the cam gear is pressed on with huge force and not pinned.
I'd make sure the cable for the CKP is prefect. sure would,
I do not think the ECU is bad, the inputs are super well protected inside.... but.... anyone saying this can be wrong but , here I said it. ( :0)
that is what comes to mind, this AM. good luck to you and your G16B
http://www.fixkick.com