(08-17-2016, 09:00 PM)fixkick Wrote:(08-17-2016, 05:49 PM)tico70 Wrote: I added some pictures.
bad running engine ,horrid
the EFI was running rich as a pig.
must have been burning fuel like V8.
nasty mess there, the engine block is a nasty mess. and is only the victim, of EFI all messed up.
top reasons, limphome mode.
1:that exhaust crack if allows air to the 02 sensor that sensor goes to 0v, (super lean) and EFI goes super rich, and bingo.
2: and or FPR bad, and fuel pressure is at 60psi, 2 times normal (or worst both #1 and 2 are wrong)
as you can see all 4 are bad, so is not just one leaking injector, its common to all 4 cylinders this error.
you could put a new engine there and it will only repeat this calamity.
id clean that all up , and get new valve seals. then fix EFI.
that huge sludge there can (could) cause the top ring to stick, and leak,, i see the factory hone marks
is that top cylinder ridge good, run your finger nail from 1inch down the cylinder then up to feel that ridge edge? if no ridge the cylinder id bet are ok.
most are, the metal in this engine is strong (it has cylinder liners cast in place and are very strong.)
that is step one, the fingernail, test, as covered day one in all engine work classes... head off and the finger gets busy.
do not attempt to polish the metal, of the deck top of block or head,
if you do , there will be no gasket on earth that seals there. the surfaces are spec'd out for roughness and is key to head gasket seals holding
have you checked the 0.050" oil gallery orifice plug yet, front left end of head, it must be be blocked, or the cam starves from oil and seizes.
have you done the warp test per the FSM book
the steel rule test, with feeler gauges, this is covered in all books in print on engine work.
cross ruler test tells you no more than .002" warp is ok, this is like step 2 on head,
and its 2 tests, one on head, then block deck.
and if really savvy the intake side too....
overheating damage has no limits so we look and measure.
read the FSM yet, on engine chapter 6a:
the free book keeps moving here.,.. but here it is,
read chapter 6a
http://www.acksfaq.com/2016bp.php?urlnam...kerfsm.htm
note how the download button works, so keep a copy.
the classic test on warp is .001" max per foot.
lay ruler cross wise say on head bottom
using a feel the .002" dont fit. the lay it cross again from opposite corner, same dead.
repeat on the engine deck. 2 checks.
this is done on all engines head off.
if way off the head gasket blows again.
cheers ! and good luck.
Fixkick. thanks again for all the good advice.
I am already reading chapter 6 (before removing the head).
As I mentioned, I didnt pay atention to the car in the last 2 years ( my wife was driven it).In the last months I havent used the car because I was fixing (rebuilding the transfer case). So I only started the engine a couple of times in the last 8-9 months.
I found a bad rotor, and a defective distributor cap, so probably that caused the EFI problems. The pistons carbon deposits looks bright because the oil that I added for the compression test.
Is that OK to use platinum bosch 4 spark plugs on these cars? I was using these ones.
The crack in the exhaust manifold is almost no noticeable. I will upload a photo as soon I can ( working out of town right now and doing these repairs during my spare weekend time)
There is not ridge at all. I did the nails test in all of them.
No. I didnt polish the block. I Used a a soft brass wire brush wheel to remove the gasket and carbon, then I used a rag with thinner to clean the surface.
Could you please point out the oil gallery orifice plug?
I always use antifreeze. 50% mixture. Could be the pretty bad tap water that I used for the mix.