evap code PO0443

[fixkick]

those readings show , a perfect , set of readings, hot, in closed loop too.
what the tools dont do, well, is tell what parameter caused it to fail, in fact they hide it. (in this case, not others)
not:
showing, expected fuel rate or idle Duty cycle changes out of range ,would have been spiffy. but no. joy. there.
We will have to fix it by pure Guile. cunning.
we know it fails, we dont know why?
trick 1:
1: pull the hose from VSV output to Canister , small vac hose. , there is a big hose, vent to tank and small hose to VSV, pull small.
2: using new OBD tool, reset DTC.
3: start car, and see if you can make it fail, 443 or other codes. 440 and 450? with hose DISCONNECTED. some cars, you do this and the 443 are GONE forever. EVAP1 only.

4: just before that, at hot idle does it suck air? i think it must. as a hot motor, at 800 rpm parked, at 0mph, it must suck air. if not the VSV is bad, (or bad electrics to it,) is the vacuum hard vacuum nipple to it is not sucking. It must suck at all times that hose. pull it and see?
the vacuum must be there at the vsv at all times, and at idle the ECU opens this valve so both nipples are now sucking are (pulled 1 at time but not same time) ,are they. (pull input, then put back , pull output)
if it cant suck air, its bad. easy find and fix.

5: put a volt meter back probed (needles) to the VSV solenoid coil conn, do not unplug it. just probe it, with 2 leads, it must read 12vdc, (or 14.7) that means the ECU has it ACTIVATED.
is it activated a HOT IDLE>? if not, then we must find out why.? a cut wire?
if the vacuum input nipple is dead, then that line is blocked, they do. or the Vac nipple port at the source.

Id attack the VSV first.

some cars the EVAP1 tests can be fooled.
just like a 1995 EGR thermo sensors, and for the same reason.
they forget to do 2 tests, open and close, or they do the 2 tests but only fail the 2nd, if the flow is too low.
If the test is SMART it does a differential test, A -B = flow. if same, fail. my wild guess is this is what it does and we can not fool it.

but if you can fool it , that tells me, the canister is plugged up.
in other classic car forums, (they are wild) they split the casing, then pure out the activate charcoal and then put in aqurium tank carbon (walmat) and it works PERFECT (valves inside clean tool)
(this is common in calif, due to smog rules and visual inspections)
for you , i bet you just want the CEL light out. not worried about carbon block issues.

What it does and how:
what happens on a cold morning; you call in sick; the car is in the drive way, the outdoor temp goes from 70F to 110F and as the fuel expands and the fumes expand, they build nice pressure against the reg valve.
the spring tension there, is overpowered and the valve opens and BURPS, fumes into the charcoal CAN, the carbon sucks it up like a sponge.
you then get better (sick), and go for a beer, and start car, and when hot (block) the VSV opens (at stops signs) and sucks fresh air thru the CAN and burns them all, for a repeat , next hot day.
the test, only checks that air flows, from VSV nipple 1 to 2, and I'm sure nothing else.
knowing that , solves this riddle. I hope this helps in some small way.

good day to you.

you have EVAP 1
below is EVAP2
but lets talk hoses.
your VSV is on the left side, right facing engine.
SOL #21
see hose 38 , it must suck all times running, its a direct shot to the full plenum
hose 57 must suck at hot idle , does it?
on your car SOL 50 is missing and the hose is a straight shot to CAN, this is TANK VENT hose id 55

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ps,
ive seen the plenum nipple clog ,a 5min fix. THE EGR and PCV valve make a huge nasty cloud that loves to clog vacuum parts.