noise when taking off

[fixkick]

I have bigger problems now anyway. On Thursday when I was driving and trying to figure out the vibration on the car I drove up to 80 mph for shorts period of time to see when the vibration comes and/or goes. I guess I can say I drove the car pretty hard that time (compared to my usual mellow driving) Yesterday I skipped driving the car because "Andrea" brought lots of rain to our area. This morning I went to start the car to drive it on the ramps and check the GL4 lube and it would crank strongly but no start. Fuel pressure is good, after several tries the car barely started, when at idle it's ok but as soon as I tried depressing the gas pedal, it would want to die. I let it run for a few minutes, then I went to give it the gas and if I did it suddenly and quick it would keep wanting to die, if I did it slowly and gradually, the engine would rev up. I pulled only one pending code: P0420.
ignore 420, is not a soon pending smog test, 420s is lazy cat, ignore it and it most times goes away when you cruise , in closed loop.
in closed loop it will get nice and hot, and bake dry inside, and many come back to LIFE.
but on the other hand, did 80mph , cause the CAT to crack and start breaking up, and cause huge back pressure.
use vacuum gauge, carb fuel pressure section attached to front 02 bung, and see if pressure is below 2psi at 2500rpm in neutral, for that possible.
if fuel pressure is good, you should see the reason for no engine power, using full scan like below.

use a scan tool. and see whats going on.
did it stop idling , in closed loop, yes, we find that first. , is MAF reacting properly, 5gs, then up to 20? with normal loads.?



No disconnected vacuum hoses anywhere, nothing obvious that I could see in the intake or anywhere in the engine bay. ISC unplugged nearly stalled the engine as well as closed-by-hand EGR. I took the timing belt cover off (I've done it so many times I've got it down to 20 minutes) and timing is right on. No wet or full of carbon spark plugs. I had to leave for work, when I get back home I'll check compression and MAF.

if lash is good, your compression should be good, 170psi warm


i got the wifi , page up. see my scantool.net tool,

http://www.fixkick.com/ELM327/4251WF.html


see this, see the maf, I had the car in gear, and drove against hard brakes, 0mph and got 20 grams a sec, air flow. just 1 second if a clutch. (it will smoke)
i did this with 4speed, in drive. but can be done with stick shift if you do it fast,
if you have tool like this even the OBDwiz can log data while driving, the software is way more advanced than the clone tools .

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make sure the MAF cant bounce, missing maf mounts? (beats it to death)
or after market wet oil soaked, air filters, bad. (clean maf from 8 inches away ,spray if you suspect a maf that is coked up. wet it , wait 1min, repeat 3 times let the cleaner work.)
look at fuel trim, if you have an air leak , it will show up at idle worse. and show up short term. huge PLUS numbers (adding fuel to correct air leaks). mine runs about -3 at idle, (perfect)
mine shows 0 above because, i stalled the engine. for this test.
note huge advance 45deg.

one more trick, if you suspect the maf, (no scan tools) then unplug it.
this will force limphome and maf emulation, power will be limited, but not as much as a dead maf. 1/2 power, in limphome mimic , i guess.?

first check for closed loop, at hot idle. if not, closed, loop, diagnose that first. it easier to diagnose , bad idle AFR, parked. fix that first.