03-19-2016, 12:53 PM
Dear All,
Please help with my constant stalling issue...!
Car: USA spec, made in Canada, 1996, manual, 2 door, 4x4, geo tracker with 150,000 miles.
Tune up is up to date. The car still gets 24 mpg and feels peppy for what it is.
Some months ago it started stalling at stops with a p0400.
I checked the hoses, clean the #4 hole in the throttle, the SST tube, but there was no change in behavior.
Then I did the stall test. It passed.
I then did the bark test. I thought the bark was too weak, so I cleaned all the passages toward the exhaust. No change.
By then I was sure it was the EGR main. I put a new one, no change.
Then, of course, it had to be the modulator. I put a new one. No change.
Now the car was stalling hot every time I stop pushing the gas pedal.
Since it is passing the first two tests, I did the live test. It passed.
I have not formally tested the VSV valves. But I did check that they are open when the car is off and they close when the car is on.
Then I noticed that the car is not idling properly at start up. When I start it, it only goes to about 600-800 rpm and once it gets hot it stalls.
I got an ELM327 OBD2 Bluetooth transmitter and using the Torque application I can see that the car reaches closed loop in 15-20 seconds. The vacuum is about 20 in Hg and the car gets hot and stays hot.
For some reason everything worked perfect yesterday. It went to 1300 rpm at start up, went down to 800 and stay there at idle at every stop of my 15-20 min commute.
Coming back home, the same, no issue until this morning. Started at 900 rpm, first stop sign, it stalled. this has happened once before.
Every few months one good day.
I keep it alive by feathering the gas, and the car always start right back up. it responds easy and quick to feathering the gas pedal, just a tiny touch will raise the rpms.
The only two modifications to the car are a less restrictive CAT back and replaced the transmission with a lower mileage one like 10,000 miles ago (the old one had a bad internal bearing).
I do not have any code right now, but the car stalls immediately once it gets hot.
I was going to disassemble the ISC next...or try to do more tests on the VSV...any ideas?
Anything I can get from reading the OBD?
Thanks for any and all help,
Jorgi
Please help with my constant stalling issue...!
Car: USA spec, made in Canada, 1996, manual, 2 door, 4x4, geo tracker with 150,000 miles.
Tune up is up to date. The car still gets 24 mpg and feels peppy for what it is.
Some months ago it started stalling at stops with a p0400.
I checked the hoses, clean the #4 hole in the throttle, the SST tube, but there was no change in behavior.
Then I did the stall test. It passed.
I then did the bark test. I thought the bark was too weak, so I cleaned all the passages toward the exhaust. No change.
By then I was sure it was the EGR main. I put a new one, no change.
Then, of course, it had to be the modulator. I put a new one. No change.
Now the car was stalling hot every time I stop pushing the gas pedal.
Since it is passing the first two tests, I did the live test. It passed.
I have not formally tested the VSV valves. But I did check that they are open when the car is off and they close when the car is on.
Then I noticed that the car is not idling properly at start up. When I start it, it only goes to about 600-800 rpm and once it gets hot it stalls.
I got an ELM327 OBD2 Bluetooth transmitter and using the Torque application I can see that the car reaches closed loop in 15-20 seconds. The vacuum is about 20 in Hg and the car gets hot and stays hot.
For some reason everything worked perfect yesterday. It went to 1300 rpm at start up, went down to 800 and stay there at idle at every stop of my 15-20 min commute.
Coming back home, the same, no issue until this morning. Started at 900 rpm, first stop sign, it stalled. this has happened once before.
Every few months one good day.
I keep it alive by feathering the gas, and the car always start right back up. it responds easy and quick to feathering the gas pedal, just a tiny touch will raise the rpms.
The only two modifications to the car are a less restrictive CAT back and replaced the transmission with a lower mileage one like 10,000 miles ago (the old one had a bad internal bearing).
I do not have any code right now, but the car stalls immediately once it gets hot.
I was going to disassemble the ISC next...or try to do more tests on the VSV...any ideas?
Anything I can get from reading the OBD?
Thanks for any and all help,
Jorgi