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Engine finally runs OK, but no real power!
#9
(02-09-2016, 03:21 AM)Zackman Wrote: Thank you kindly for your reply FIXKICK. U R WELCOME.

1. As I had reported earlier (I know you are not expected to remember everything I have written in past 4 weeks), the engine compression are uniform and, as far as I am concerned, excellent. They are all at 155 psi at cold wide-open cranking. good.,
2. The engine light goes off after a few second upon ignition, and I get code 12 - no problem at all. (ok no sensors fell off.)
3. The spark plugs are black and dry. (ok running rich, it is)
4. The fuel pressure should be tested. (you should, 55psi will never ever work. and is shunt spec. on pump, FPR dead or return line pinched)

QUESTIONS:
1. How do I check the vacuum (at what location/what hose)? any plenum hose ,even the map hose with added Tee fitting, any plenum hose works. they all go same place, (not FPR)
all vsv valve are on hard vacuum cept, EGR, and FPR. egr is ported vacuum and FPR is air horn (atmospherics for altitude.)
brake booster is hard vacuum but is pain to connect there. MAP is bests, as it tests that line is not clogged or cracked, too.


2. Why is it that as soon as I put it in gear it dies; even if the cylinder compression was the issue (which is definitely not in my case)?
it dies for 1 reason, gross misfiring, its running super rich and is misfiring so bad, the eCU can not raise RPM enough to hold up the transmission load,
i bet you cant drive it, with fast right foot on throttle, you select drive and with fast right foot cant raise RPM to drive. right and engine shakes hard and is misfiring badly.
right?

keep in mind, there are 2 power loss things.
misfire (rich)
and bog (or called lean misfire)


Thanks again!
Zackman.

Another point I should mention. I have noticed that the plunger retracts immediately when the car is cold and started. In past, it used to stay on for a few second, then retract and let the RPM go down. Would that serve as a hint?! no, the Dash pot is 100% timed by start up temps. 3 to 30 seconds, colder slower.

Zackman


ideas
test with O2 sensor unplugged.
fuel pressure way off
if engine is fully hot and ECT not 300 ohms, but is 1000 , it will run rich as heck. and misfire badly.
get engine hot, stop it, off the ect connector, bingo, 300 ohms at pins (the ecu can not find sensors out of calibration, ever)
ecu can not tolerate fuel pressure way off. it assumes its ok, and uses this in its equations, blindly.....
the iat uses same rules as ECT per my tables..... under testing the sensors.


well its misfiring rich,
right?
you can hear it misfire, and see it , shake and smell that rich unburned fuel.????


cheers
http://www.fixkick.com
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RE: Engine finally runs OK, but no real power! - by fixkick - 02-09-2016, 05:37 AM

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