yes, all trim parts are expensive. on this car, and very poor after market support. (horrid)
best chance, is to find A/M trim. is to ask any body shop, they know all the A/M makers and catalogs.
the backpressure (1st level) is the cat, if no cat then its the muff. (running a muff?)
the EFI will go nuts with open headers... it's tuned for s certain amount of back pressure called VE (volumetric, efficiency)
the most important factor in exh is not backpressure but its velocity. if you lower that too much, bad things happen'
the exh, moving fast, sucks out all the exhaust in the combustion chamber at valve over lap time.
"(and object, in motion (or gas) tends to stay in motion....)" this fact is used to a very great extent, in EFI design.
Called Exhaust Scavenging.. just dont mess that up. and all will be ok,
No CAT , kills the EGR. up to 1999. (and never on SPORT 1.8L) before 99.
the kill switch out side needs to be 100 % water proof or will fail fast. (there are Mil surplus sw, water and explosion proof, that work)
my favorite trick, is a hidden magnetic switch. (done right, near impossible to find , casual looking)
g402 (on a 2 door only)
unscrew this, and put any switch , between it and ground. there.
this kills the fuel pump and fuel gauge.
far better to do that than mess with ECU, Dizzy or other critical ECU , EFI primary functions.
the pump is safely down stream from the ECU buffered by a nice safe relay.
you could put a switch that opens the ground side of the Fuel pump relay.
no cuts, just make a big lug to small adapter here.
![[Image: Pump-Ground1.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/Pump-Ground1.jpg)
id not cut my FP relay wires but if you must here it is
91+
![[Image: Fuel-Pump-Relay1w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/Fuel-Pump-Relay1w.jpg)
96+ (put a switch in series (SPST) with black-white (12v) or the Pink-black (pump drive) (after horror, cutting said wire)
![[Image: 96FPrelay1.JPG]](http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/96FPrelay1.JPG)
best chance, is to find A/M trim. is to ask any body shop, they know all the A/M makers and catalogs.
the backpressure (1st level) is the cat, if no cat then its the muff. (running a muff?)
the EFI will go nuts with open headers... it's tuned for s certain amount of back pressure called VE (volumetric, efficiency)
the most important factor in exh is not backpressure but its velocity. if you lower that too much, bad things happen'
the exh, moving fast, sucks out all the exhaust in the combustion chamber at valve over lap time.
"(and object, in motion (or gas) tends to stay in motion....)" this fact is used to a very great extent, in EFI design.
Called Exhaust Scavenging.. just dont mess that up. and all will be ok,
No CAT , kills the EGR. up to 1999. (and never on SPORT 1.8L) before 99.
the kill switch out side needs to be 100 % water proof or will fail fast. (there are Mil surplus sw, water and explosion proof, that work)
my favorite trick, is a hidden magnetic switch. (done right, near impossible to find , casual looking)
g402 (on a 2 door only)
unscrew this, and put any switch , between it and ground. there.
this kills the fuel pump and fuel gauge.
far better to do that than mess with ECU, Dizzy or other critical ECU , EFI primary functions.
the pump is safely down stream from the ECU buffered by a nice safe relay.
you could put a switch that opens the ground side of the Fuel pump relay.
no cuts, just make a big lug to small adapter here.
id not cut my FP relay wires but if you must here it is
91+
96+ (put a switch in series (SPST) with black-white (12v) or the Pink-black (pump drive) (after horror, cutting said wire)
http://www.fixkick.com