(04-21-2015, 09:56 PM)fixkick Wrote: when you did the compression on old engine was it done WOT, throttle blocked open and all sparks removed? I ask because with 2 engines, you might end up with at least one good head. (doing the compression dry then wet proves this at step 11)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html#doitnow
on a used engine, I do compression test while is its on the garage floor. (battery here, cables, starter mounted,hot wire starter?,etc) or
or leak down test, I hate investing long hard labor on a dead (used) engine. (installed then removed, ouch.
both tests can be done, but the leak down only takes shop air (and the tool) and a 17mm deep socket wrench to spin the front crank nut.
i'd put in a squirt of oil first to each cylinder spark plug and turn crank sparks out, to get the rings, lubed. (TLC) step 11.
SIDE TRACKED: old engine.
i'd bet the old engine would run good, if you milled the head, yours is warped.
there is toss coin chance that just milling it you bet 170psi compression back, with mill.
id first, use steel rule on the head, and check the warp factor with a feeler gauge, shown in all automotive books in print.
set rule cross wise, and .001 per foot, warp is limit using a feeler . so ours is about 1.5 foot. so is .0015 max, FSM says .002" max (IIRC)
if warped, i next , use gasoline or any thin solvent and put that in the combustion chambers(head on bench upside down) this is the fast check that valves dont leak, the best fluid is Alcohol. , less flammable. (kerosene or diesel is too thick), if that test passes, mill the head if warped, if that test fails,, a new head exchanged is $400 (milling far far less)
id have run the old engine, but im off track now... end old engine, fix. but with 2 blocks and 2 head, id bet one good motor can result.... just saying...
back to new old engine. (just my opinion.. not worth much...)
then if the leakdown passes. i'd put on new Valve cover gasket set from Felpro. if and when compression/leakdown passes. if not, end of "pigs in poke sack", story.....
take of the cam belt cover,, set the engine to TDC #4 firing (see cam cog, that is E mark up. aligned to 12pm top slash mark.)
Remove the belt, per Tbelt page. then cam cog off , locking the cog using my 10mm hex "Allen" key trick. (16v only trick)
new cam seal, done
cog back on. key to "E" slot.
take off crank cog, locking crank first. and remove cog, and put on new crank seal. Check for crank snout damage in side old cog hole.
new gates belt (cam) tensioned to spec. done. see my Tbelt page.
and then the 2 new distributor seals. o-rings. see buy parts page,for subs, both o-rings will be bad, and for sure VC gasket.
i then do the compression test again. (just to be sure i didnt mess up above) self checks pay back,.....
The head was taken to a respected repair shop and milled along with the leak down test performed. The problem with performing some of the tests was that the engine wouldn't start. The compression readings were with all spark plugs removed, full charge battery and strong crank. Don't know if I ever got to the recommended 800 RPM for the compression check but again it was all I could do with engine not starting.
At any rate, I'll do the seals and gaskets using your procedures. Thank you for the valuable input.
Craig