the engine will start fine with a 1/2 charge
the battery has 500 amps cold cranking spec. or more.
and the starter uses 100 amps
but my questions is , how in the world did you loose 1/2 a charge in the battery?
one trick on funky batteries is to swap it with another car, and see if the battery fails again.
keep in mind that wrong tall batteries can in fact hit the hood, on kicks. easy. spark = boom.
keep in mind, that is 6 batteries. 6 cells. and if one cell is weak. that makes them all weak.
because they are in SERIES. (cell resistance adds in a series circuit)
i used to service huge UPS systems (like 9-11 centers) and we used all ways to test a battery (and the systems)
1: a voltmeter like you did, if low?, it's removed, AFTER ALL our charging system is ok. (checked first)
2: we use this very expensive internal cell resistance checker, A.C resistance, in micro-ohms, this tells us 2 things. is it good, and how long is its life. (battery tables are used)
on some cars that are a PITA. i run a wire the starter solenoid. (tiny lug) to the cab (with 5amp inline fuse) and when the car fails to start i glance at the meter.
oh my, the voltage fell to 8v, but the cig lighter jack has 12v but the starter key line, was bad. (PRNDL switch) fails , i try neutral, it now works
or i do same to the + lug on the starter, mr big lug.
it drops , low, and the cables are bad.
or battery, is low, if the head lights dim, greatly cranking, the battery is bad or the cables.
using a volt meter, you can , in fact find any fault. using just 1 jumper wire.
when your gal heard the clunk, that means voltage below 8v.
8v is the magic number, the solenoid, , (some are 7v) drops dead. this is on PURPOSE so the silly thing dont eat to death the silly ring gear in that fly wheel.
so when you hear clunk.
is the battery at 12v?
is the solinoid 3 lugs all 11v or more cranking? yes, bad starter or its ground is loose.
8v? cranking, bad battery ,bad cables, bad ground.
8v? move the jumper up stream to see where the voltage drop happens.
many sidekicks the starter ground is not in the right place, at the top starter bolt or was never torqued to spec.
this is called nodal analysis. (its very easy to do, just tedious)
you can do that , or buy parts and guess.
why not add a dash voltmeter to the car like new cars have.
and see if the battery goes flat , just as the CRANK , happens. best bang for buck that.....
no matter what, it will get worse. no failure i can think of , does self healing, only progressive worse.
the battery has 500 amps cold cranking spec. or more.
and the starter uses 100 amps
but my questions is , how in the world did you loose 1/2 a charge in the battery?
one trick on funky batteries is to swap it with another car, and see if the battery fails again.
keep in mind that wrong tall batteries can in fact hit the hood, on kicks. easy. spark = boom.
keep in mind, that is 6 batteries. 6 cells. and if one cell is weak. that makes them all weak.
because they are in SERIES. (cell resistance adds in a series circuit)
i used to service huge UPS systems (like 9-11 centers) and we used all ways to test a battery (and the systems)
1: a voltmeter like you did, if low?, it's removed, AFTER ALL our charging system is ok. (checked first)
2: we use this very expensive internal cell resistance checker, A.C resistance, in micro-ohms, this tells us 2 things. is it good, and how long is its life. (battery tables are used)
on some cars that are a PITA. i run a wire the starter solenoid. (tiny lug) to the cab (with 5amp inline fuse) and when the car fails to start i glance at the meter.
oh my, the voltage fell to 8v, but the cig lighter jack has 12v but the starter key line, was bad. (PRNDL switch) fails , i try neutral, it now works
or i do same to the + lug on the starter, mr big lug.
it drops , low, and the cables are bad.
or battery, is low, if the head lights dim, greatly cranking, the battery is bad or the cables.
using a volt meter, you can , in fact find any fault. using just 1 jumper wire.
when your gal heard the clunk, that means voltage below 8v.
8v is the magic number, the solenoid, , (some are 7v) drops dead. this is on PURPOSE so the silly thing dont eat to death the silly ring gear in that fly wheel.
so when you hear clunk.
is the battery at 12v?
is the solinoid 3 lugs all 11v or more cranking? yes, bad starter or its ground is loose.
8v? cranking, bad battery ,bad cables, bad ground.
8v? move the jumper up stream to see where the voltage drop happens.
many sidekicks the starter ground is not in the right place, at the top starter bolt or was never torqued to spec.
this is called nodal analysis. (its very easy to do, just tedious)
you can do that , or buy parts and guess.
why not add a dash voltmeter to the car like new cars have.
and see if the battery goes flat , just as the CRANK , happens. best bang for buck that.....
no matter what, it will get worse. no failure i can think of , does self healing, only progressive worse.
http://www.fixkick.com