answer to question 2 above. where is VCC, easy.
some of this is 6 years old and i forgot, that i already did that. for others
sleep , wake up, and bingo , its i my slide show, off ecu.htm.
http://www.fixkick.com/look/ECU-secrets/...ge_26.html
im made this for all those questions, do I really have power. did acid eat up a power trace, or a VIA killed my power path,,, so common those are...
no warranty on rev. engineering.. 5v main must be at 5v.
TTL chip 74hc152 pin 16 is power VCC, (datasheets are google easy today to pull up)
![[Image: 56B30-5VDC.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/look/ECU-secrets/images/56B30-5VDC.jpg)
Junk ECUs , super dogs we called them.
1: acid damage inspection.
2: caps split or blown up, or leaking, or dry inside. (cap test)
3: 5vdc every where it must be. A23 first. watch out of zener and trace to it blown up, due to ,junk yard wild men, hot wiring the TPS or other 5vdc sensor.
4: Power up, CEL glows. (if not, does ECU have power on pin B1?)
5: Diag jumper , CEL must FLash something, if not its DOA.
6: code 12s, ?
7: code 12s, so i pull the ECT and the flashes. 14 DTC, for ECT voltage too high, if not the ECU is DOA. (my guess is backup mode due to power loss somewhere on the main board,) im sure IAT and TPS does simular DTC act. tells you they are missing. (try cranking to, get DTCs if none)
some odd ECU wont show codes until cranked. My 56B throws codes, just with power connected.(after boot up)
6: Noid test.
7: Run the engine tests.
As the FSM states, is to check all ECU connections for shorts. before installing a new ECU. for good reasons...
well, the inputs are safve, they can be shorted to any thing short of spark. All inputs are resistor and R/C input filtered and protected. (if case is grounded)
shorted outputs blow ECUs
all red arrows pointing out ward are outputs , those must not be shorted to power,
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg
see this list of 15 drivers in list)
here
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/transistors.html
these are the drivers that blow up. from shorts.
keep in mind a relay can short its coil and blow up ( the ECU driver for said coil. case in point .eg. IC11, the fuel pump relay and pump are now dead for ever. (rare)
one other bad idea is the guy that hot wired the MAIN relay , slipped 1/8" inch, and blew the B15 diode to kingdomecome.. in Europe B15 is a transistor that turns on when IMMO is happy. very different from ours. ECU dead, no 12v to ECU again.
the chip that blows, there, kills that function.
Many ECUs' that are just laying around are bad. (even those are sold for core value for say $50).
Lots of persons here have installed fresh , injectors wires, or add a 7Amp fuse to the injector red wire. (hot side) & if paranoid, the yellow too. (no shorts on the yellow wire to 12v are allowed or BOOM , R227 smokes)
$400 for a new Cardon ECu can do that to you,, i wish you luck , and success....
Injectors, and all VSV drivers and relay driver pins.
these old ECU do not have output protection like on new cars. (some)
FYI
ps: when C111 goes bad. IC-7 regulator goes nuts. (if a noise pick (negative) goes below about 9v, the reg. drops out) i do not know the actual drop point but it doesn't matter, the cap needs to be good and in place. there.
the new caps on my cap pages shows good low ESR caps. that suck up lots of noise on the cars power distribution (torture system) bus.
One large noise source is the A/C clutch it can produce 100v spikes, when activated. (lots of photos) (back EMF) and its not diode clamped.
only the battery and alternator diodes dampen noise. (both can fail) if fact Alternators can fail and be mostly noise generators, (3phase diode short)
so C111 is a key part in this car.
think of it as protection for when other things , not related are bad. a vary common thing on old cars.'
some of this is 6 years old and i forgot, that i already did that. for others
sleep , wake up, and bingo , its i my slide show, off ecu.htm.
http://www.fixkick.com/look/ECU-secrets/...ge_26.html
im made this for all those questions, do I really have power. did acid eat up a power trace, or a VIA killed my power path,,, so common those are...
no warranty on rev. engineering.. 5v main must be at 5v.
TTL chip 74hc152 pin 16 is power VCC, (datasheets are google easy today to pull up)
Junk ECUs , super dogs we called them.
1: acid damage inspection.
2: caps split or blown up, or leaking, or dry inside. (cap test)
3: 5vdc every where it must be. A23 first. watch out of zener and trace to it blown up, due to ,junk yard wild men, hot wiring the TPS or other 5vdc sensor.
4: Power up, CEL glows. (if not, does ECU have power on pin B1?)
5: Diag jumper , CEL must FLash something, if not its DOA.
6: code 12s, ?
7: code 12s, so i pull the ECT and the flashes. 14 DTC, for ECT voltage too high, if not the ECU is DOA. (my guess is backup mode due to power loss somewhere on the main board,) im sure IAT and TPS does simular DTC act. tells you they are missing. (try cranking to, get DTCs if none)
some odd ECU wont show codes until cranked. My 56B throws codes, just with power connected.(after boot up)
6: Noid test.
7: Run the engine tests.
As the FSM states, is to check all ECU connections for shorts. before installing a new ECU. for good reasons...
well, the inputs are safve, they can be shorted to any thing short of spark. All inputs are resistor and R/C input filtered and protected. (if case is grounded)
shorted outputs blow ECUs
all red arrows pointing out ward are outputs , those must not be shorted to power,
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg
see this list of 15 drivers in list)
here
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/transistors.html
these are the drivers that blow up. from shorts.
keep in mind a relay can short its coil and blow up ( the ECU driver for said coil. case in point .eg. IC11, the fuel pump relay and pump are now dead for ever. (rare)
one other bad idea is the guy that hot wired the MAIN relay , slipped 1/8" inch, and blew the B15 diode to kingdomecome.. in Europe B15 is a transistor that turns on when IMMO is happy. very different from ours. ECU dead, no 12v to ECU again.
the chip that blows, there, kills that function.
Many ECUs' that are just laying around are bad. (even those are sold for core value for say $50).
Lots of persons here have installed fresh , injectors wires, or add a 7Amp fuse to the injector red wire. (hot side) & if paranoid, the yellow too. (no shorts on the yellow wire to 12v are allowed or BOOM , R227 smokes)
$400 for a new Cardon ECu can do that to you,, i wish you luck , and success....
Injectors, and all VSV drivers and relay driver pins.
these old ECU do not have output protection like on new cars. (some)
FYI
ps: when C111 goes bad. IC-7 regulator goes nuts. (if a noise pick (negative) goes below about 9v, the reg. drops out) i do not know the actual drop point but it doesn't matter, the cap needs to be good and in place. there.
the new caps on my cap pages shows good low ESR caps. that suck up lots of noise on the cars power distribution (torture system) bus.
One large noise source is the A/C clutch it can produce 100v spikes, when activated. (lots of photos) (back EMF) and its not diode clamped.
only the battery and alternator diodes dampen noise. (both can fail) if fact Alternators can fail and be mostly noise generators, (3phase diode short)
so C111 is a key part in this car.
think of it as protection for when other things , not related are bad. a vary common thing on old cars.'
http://www.fixkick.com