POST RUNS on test fuel only!
yes, and many Tachometers are very old and have trouble reading 250 RPM.. and with low battery impossble.. if it twitches there is something there, but you have spark so , its good.
i only mention the tacho because, many users have scope, and cant figure out how to see flash codes. its first check, thing. simple. but not conclusive, by any means,
the ECU will tell you if the tacho is bad. it is very reliable that way, (primary side) it can not tell that HV is good, at all.
NO codes, is a bad ECU (DOA)
ECUs that can not tell the ECT is unplugged is a bad ECU.
when changing caps be real sure you do no rip the plated through holes out of the PCB, called VIA's if you do , the PCB looses 1/2 its power and goes to backup mode.
what i do is probe every digital chip for 5v (VCC/VDD) pins for 5vdc, if not present the , power line was cut. or etched through with acid, leaks.
you are doing everything right. and 19inchs vacuum is normal for idle speed. or 10 cranking (shooting from hip) good test, the MAP is not stopping the NOID from flashing.
I assume each test is with a NOID, as it is dead, id keep it connected until, it does flash, after all the injector could be clogged or jammed. theINJ coil reads 1 ohm. so is not burned to crisp.
DEAD NOID:?
the cat will not cause the NOID to go dead. (it can only cause the engine to pump no air and have near zero vacuum cranking)
only TPS TP angle pin wrong (yours is not) 1v ok, over 3v bad, 4v is max. 5v is ground wire cut.
only code 41/42, kills the NOID. (next)
and cut injector wires. (sure) or injector hot wire grounding to frame.
and bad ECU. (injector drivers 1 or 2 or both bad) they can be open ,shorted,or weak , and good. they are both superbeta (high gain) Darlington transistors and are easy to test. (bipolar transistors are)
The are designed to run inductive loads and just hate wire shorts. and burn up easy. (shorted only)
the hot side will burn up easy , with a short (can do so and not split the transistor case or turn it to carbon,etc)
the low side burns up if the injectors shorts and high side at once, or someone hot wired the injector.
i have a transistor tester, so can check the beta easy. but you can use and ohmmeter to see if they are open or shorted, easy. (using diode selection on the dial of DMM) some meters do have Transistor tester socket on top.
put your efforts in ECU that flash codes good, after fresh caps, just the ruby's go bad, never seen other brands puke acid in suzuki ECU.
i use the noid lamp just in case the car has 2 problems
get the noid working first. i use a low current incandescent lamp. (easy to see it)
Some folks can not see 5 milisecond flashes of a very fast LED, lamp.... so use a real NOID lamp.
the lamp makes the flash seem longer, and works best for all humans....
BTW, i can see LED flashes that fast.
cap pulls
there are 2 ways, on a production line, (spent too much time there...)
a PACE de-soldering station..... but not in your shop.
way 2.
Soldering pencil, tip to cap lead, and pad, use as little heat 700F (mine has a dial for temp.) and time as possible.
get the lead straight up., not bent over if found that way.
then using a solder sucker, (spring type not bulb) and heat it,for 3 seconds and suck.
then try to wiggle the cap wire lead with solder iron tip.
repeat , suck, wiggle, at one point it's free. lead floating in hole.
this way protects, the Plated Thru hole from damage, the corner cap has such a feed thru's. it feeds DC power to the other side. and must do so.
rule 2 do not ever drill this PCB.
if you wreck the VIA, feed thru, then run a wire from top to bottom around the side of PCB. it can be fixed, if damaged.
Do not use the heat and yank trick or it will wreck the via's
![[Image: 16v_c103b.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/look/ECU-secrets/images/16v_c103b.jpg)
yes, and many Tachometers are very old and have trouble reading 250 RPM.. and with low battery impossble.. if it twitches there is something there, but you have spark so , its good.
i only mention the tacho because, many users have scope, and cant figure out how to see flash codes. its first check, thing. simple. but not conclusive, by any means,
the ECU will tell you if the tacho is bad. it is very reliable that way, (primary side) it can not tell that HV is good, at all.
NO codes, is a bad ECU (DOA)
ECUs that can not tell the ECT is unplugged is a bad ECU.
when changing caps be real sure you do no rip the plated through holes out of the PCB, called VIA's if you do , the PCB looses 1/2 its power and goes to backup mode.
what i do is probe every digital chip for 5v (VCC/VDD) pins for 5vdc, if not present the , power line was cut. or etched through with acid, leaks.
you are doing everything right. and 19inchs vacuum is normal for idle speed. or 10 cranking (shooting from hip) good test, the MAP is not stopping the NOID from flashing.
I assume each test is with a NOID, as it is dead, id keep it connected until, it does flash, after all the injector could be clogged or jammed. theINJ coil reads 1 ohm. so is not burned to crisp.
DEAD NOID:?
the cat will not cause the NOID to go dead. (it can only cause the engine to pump no air and have near zero vacuum cranking)
only TPS TP angle pin wrong (yours is not) 1v ok, over 3v bad, 4v is max. 5v is ground wire cut.
only code 41/42, kills the NOID. (next)
and cut injector wires. (sure) or injector hot wire grounding to frame.
and bad ECU. (injector drivers 1 or 2 or both bad) they can be open ,shorted,or weak , and good. they are both superbeta (high gain) Darlington transistors and are easy to test. (bipolar transistors are)
The are designed to run inductive loads and just hate wire shorts. and burn up easy. (shorted only)
the hot side will burn up easy , with a short (can do so and not split the transistor case or turn it to carbon,etc)
the low side burns up if the injectors shorts and high side at once, or someone hot wired the injector.
i have a transistor tester, so can check the beta easy. but you can use and ohmmeter to see if they are open or shorted, easy. (using diode selection on the dial of DMM) some meters do have Transistor tester socket on top.
put your efforts in ECU that flash codes good, after fresh caps, just the ruby's go bad, never seen other brands puke acid in suzuki ECU.
i use the noid lamp just in case the car has 2 problems
get the noid working first. i use a low current incandescent lamp. (easy to see it)
Some folks can not see 5 milisecond flashes of a very fast LED, lamp.... so use a real NOID lamp.
the lamp makes the flash seem longer, and works best for all humans....
BTW, i can see LED flashes that fast.
cap pulls
there are 2 ways, on a production line, (spent too much time there...)
a PACE de-soldering station..... but not in your shop.
way 2.
Soldering pencil, tip to cap lead, and pad, use as little heat 700F (mine has a dial for temp.) and time as possible.
get the lead straight up., not bent over if found that way.
then using a solder sucker, (spring type not bulb) and heat it,for 3 seconds and suck.
then try to wiggle the cap wire lead with solder iron tip.
repeat , suck, wiggle, at one point it's free. lead floating in hole.
this way protects, the Plated Thru hole from damage, the corner cap has such a feed thru's. it feeds DC power to the other side. and must do so.
rule 2 do not ever drill this PCB.
if you wreck the VIA, feed thru, then run a wire from top to bottom around the side of PCB. it can be fixed, if damaged.
Do not use the heat and yank trick or it will wreck the via's
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