gorky just got his first GOOD MAF, CONGRATULATIONS. !!
wow closed loop and all the trimmings...... wow.
So for good idle , is it in closed loop, i bet it is you told me that.
good the ISC hose test passes, tell me no horrid , leaks, (normal path)
the second test , prove (unplugging the elect) proves the ISC is stuck open.
for sure. the ISC is failing to close. in fact , not even close to closing.
the blow test, must pass, tiny tiny leaks are ok, (imagine a dripping water faucet) but not flood of air.
leave the bleed closed until we fix the real problem
IF IF IF IF IF
if , the ISC is clean and is working, (it cycles with 12v, and it did)
and you dont mind changing side screw, (whats to lose? its bad, logic) you turn the end screw 5mm,, who knows maybe its already set wrong,.
use lips test.? turn till closed, in hand.
or on car, you idle turn it, until rpm (cw) drops well below 800 (elect, connector unplugged) then plug in electric conn and set bleed if need be. (with bleed closed, id shoot for 600 rpm, this way. then..)
if the the iSC rubber seat is not totally gone,screwing it in, that 5mm allen screw, must drop RPM (unplugged electrically) if not?, its hopeless. (not car the ISC , basket case)
good luck, (you are close to perfect running motor)
all the best !
to be true to facts the bleed sets the ISC to near center of its range.
that is way we must start low, say at 600.
the ECU knows 800 rpm, and tries to hit that , all times hot, no A/C.
when RPM drops the ECU Increases duty cycle to the ISC and more air flows.
if the rpm is above 800 ISC closed,it gets lost.
a new isc is $250 but most can be cleaned and made to work.
wow closed loop and all the trimmings...... wow.
So for good idle , is it in closed loop, i bet it is you told me that.
good the ISC hose test passes, tell me no horrid , leaks, (normal path)
the second test , prove (unplugging the elect) proves the ISC is stuck open.
for sure. the ISC is failing to close. in fact , not even close to closing.
the blow test, must pass, tiny tiny leaks are ok, (imagine a dripping water faucet) but not flood of air.
leave the bleed closed until we fix the real problem
IF IF IF IF IF
if , the ISC is clean and is working, (it cycles with 12v, and it did)
and you dont mind changing side screw, (whats to lose? its bad, logic) you turn the end screw 5mm,, who knows maybe its already set wrong,.
use lips test.? turn till closed, in hand.
or on car, you idle turn it, until rpm (cw) drops well below 800 (elect, connector unplugged) then plug in electric conn and set bleed if need be. (with bleed closed, id shoot for 600 rpm, this way. then..)
if the the iSC rubber seat is not totally gone,screwing it in, that 5mm allen screw, must drop RPM (unplugged electrically) if not?, its hopeless. (not car the ISC , basket case)
good luck, (you are close to perfect running motor)
all the best !
to be true to facts the bleed sets the ISC to near center of its range.
that is way we must start low, say at 600.
the ECU knows 800 rpm, and tries to hit that , all times hot, no A/C.
when RPM drops the ECU Increases duty cycle to the ISC and more air flows.
if the rpm is above 800 ISC closed,it gets lost.
a new isc is $250 but most can be cleaned and made to work.
http://www.fixkick.com