ohhhh, la la, a new one? cute.
first off , i do feel that pain and confusion. for sure, been there done that, too many times. (Im not sure ,on that screw question at all)
yes, not wanting to break the new one. may I ask what source (was it new? , refurb. , maker , Cardone?)
ok the ISC duty cycle. it's in the 96fsm , you can read the pages there... but getting a meter to work right, can be hard. (off my books page)
200 times a second the ISC modulates, (a scope works best) 2nd best is a meter that has Dutycycle in the dial.
we can fiddle it all to work good, by experiments or use a meter.
The isc cant hold HL. failure: Head lights on,.
so the ISC fails to open enough, (could be or its sticking, many stick, ive soaked many for a week to get them truly free)
but if the ISC is working it should open 100% at 100% duty cycle. this allows it to overcome the HP used by the alternator.
The HL use 140watts (aprox) or about 1/4 HP (horse power, nothing is free) so with fan and HL on, the alt sucks almost 1/2 HP.
with NO ISC? (dead) the rpm will drop. due to that load.
the ECU increases the duty on the ISC and adds air until 800 is reached, mine took about 1 second to react (delay)
if the duty hits 100, and 800 is not achieved the ISC is not opening fully or, has input restricked (i think not)
or the duty was wrong all along. no loads.
let me explain all wrong.
normally when you set duty to 50% at 800 , all is good.
but what if you set the bleed to 800 rpm compensating for too little natural air flow. say
duty is 90% at hot idle and no loads, and 800 rpm , the ISC only has 10% remaining, not enough.
one thing that can cause that is the 5mm screw on the side of the ISC set too tight, this causes a false high Duty cycle.
but if the seat is like a saw blade (or moon surface ) in the ISC , then its easy to get there.
in a perfect kick.
the idle bleed is set to 800 rpm hot , no load.
and duty cycle lands on 50% the ECU can increase or decrease air by 50 at any time. and
simple answer ,1
back off the ISC 5mm allen (ccw) see rpm rise. (adds air)
then CW drop bleed rpm back to 800 rpm (reduces air) this act moves DC lower. a goad would be 50% if you had a meter.
now the isc can open more under ECU control and , correct all alternators loads applied up to 50 amps or near 1horse power added load.
good luck
keep in mind , although the core part maybe the same, he 8v and 16v have unique routing. 8v is on TB and 16v on turned and planted on the plenum left side.
the 8v is unique in all years. 89/90 and 91-95 do not fit any 16v .
the correct pn for any 16v is just one number, 18117-58B00
56B is 8v.
the correct part is here , sold at suzuki. $330 bucks, plus tax and shipping, ouch.
many stores, are clueless to 8v and 16v differences, a disease of sorts.
http://www.oemsuzukiparts.com/parts/inde...eid=214330
(04-23-2013, 11:27 AM)gorkyb Wrote: Ignition timing procedure I followed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1y3_E1jK...tube_gdata
the duty cycle is very hard to set with no scope or the proper duty meter connected to the DLC in the engine bay.
one fast trick is to.... lower the rpm
ISC is still not working as supposed to, idle holds steady but when I turn headlights on it drops and ISC can't regulate,
drops RPM means, that the ISC can not open more,
it's not bad enough to not let me drive the car, pass inspection or cause any real issues but it bothers me so I purchased an used ISC.
Tested both with 12v and what a difference between mine and the one I bought, the replacement one does not leak any air when blowing through and when 12v is applied is a strong snap up and down. Thanks for that input, ive never seen or owned any new iSC, they are very expensive,
I clean and refurb them all. if not, i do used one... for cheap.
I know you show this on video at your page but although video is great, having both side by side in front of me really opened my eyes regarding how inconsistent mine is. for sure , not seeing one , in action ,snappiness, and all, is hard to evaluate it.
The only problem is that all the tubes (air and both coolant tubes) are facing the wrong way, I see that they have little philip head screws that I assume one can take out to remove the tubes, so I am guessing they took it apart and put it back wrong?
im not sure, let me see? but seems you are right , move it to the right direction. are the coils same ohms?
If this is doable please tell me how to do it, I don't want to force it and break it but I don't want to send it back just for someone else to do it and send it back to me wasting time and money on shipping charges.
Picture of two ISC's.
first off , i do feel that pain and confusion. for sure, been there done that, too many times. (Im not sure ,on that screw question at all)
yes, not wanting to break the new one. may I ask what source (was it new? , refurb. , maker , Cardone?)
ok the ISC duty cycle. it's in the 96fsm , you can read the pages there... but getting a meter to work right, can be hard. (off my books page)
200 times a second the ISC modulates, (a scope works best) 2nd best is a meter that has Dutycycle in the dial.
we can fiddle it all to work good, by experiments or use a meter.
The isc cant hold HL. failure: Head lights on,.
so the ISC fails to open enough, (could be or its sticking, many stick, ive soaked many for a week to get them truly free)
but if the ISC is working it should open 100% at 100% duty cycle. this allows it to overcome the HP used by the alternator.
The HL use 140watts (aprox) or about 1/4 HP (horse power, nothing is free) so with fan and HL on, the alt sucks almost 1/2 HP.
with NO ISC? (dead) the rpm will drop. due to that load.
the ECU increases the duty on the ISC and adds air until 800 is reached, mine took about 1 second to react (delay)
if the duty hits 100, and 800 is not achieved the ISC is not opening fully or, has input restricked (i think not)
or the duty was wrong all along. no loads.
let me explain all wrong.
normally when you set duty to 50% at 800 , all is good.
but what if you set the bleed to 800 rpm compensating for too little natural air flow. say
duty is 90% at hot idle and no loads, and 800 rpm , the ISC only has 10% remaining, not enough.
one thing that can cause that is the 5mm screw on the side of the ISC set too tight, this causes a false high Duty cycle.
but if the seat is like a saw blade (or moon surface ) in the ISC , then its easy to get there.
in a perfect kick.
the idle bleed is set to 800 rpm hot , no load.
and duty cycle lands on 50% the ECU can increase or decrease air by 50 at any time. and
simple answer ,1
back off the ISC 5mm allen (ccw) see rpm rise. (adds air)
then CW drop bleed rpm back to 800 rpm (reduces air) this act moves DC lower. a goad would be 50% if you had a meter.
now the isc can open more under ECU control and , correct all alternators loads applied up to 50 amps or near 1horse power added load.
good luck
keep in mind , although the core part maybe the same, he 8v and 16v have unique routing. 8v is on TB and 16v on turned and planted on the plenum left side.
the 8v is unique in all years. 89/90 and 91-95 do not fit any 16v .
the correct pn for any 16v is just one number, 18117-58B00
56B is 8v.
the correct part is here , sold at suzuki. $330 bucks, plus tax and shipping, ouch.
many stores, are clueless to 8v and 16v differences, a disease of sorts.
http://www.oemsuzukiparts.com/parts/inde...eid=214330
http://www.fixkick.com