12-08-2023, 02:38 AM
x2 post all things on car (for sure engine/efi ) things not stock, nobody can ever guess what you drive. we are blind.
is this a help me post are just story and solve is it solve please say so.?
yes EGR loves to fail on all cars with EGR, my jeep has none 1995 zero EGR> (it uses dynamic tuning to avoid EGR junk for NOX)
to prove EGR is it,
just remove the EGR vacuum hose at EGR main (rear of intake man) 96 G16B
and put a GOLF tee in the hose so it can not suck air
the #50 ID EGR tube both SST gaskets not missing or cracked sucking air. same with EGR base gasket not sucking air.
Then make sure the EGR is new or make it 100% clean so it can not stuck open, even cleaned some stick still, I put those all in the ground fill, dumps.
SOME EGR mains even the silly body cracks and sucks air.
do not allow any vacuum , hoses or EGR parts or any parts from MAF to TB to suck air ever. from the atomosphere or it goes lean lean lean and stalls or 200rpm
egr sticks open 200 to 400rpm or stalls in fact the EGR test is to see it stall.
vacuum leaks are unmetered air, means you are fooling the MAF> the air must all be metered by the MAF at all times.
if comes back consider this.
make a profile and add that is best.
200 rpm to 400 is most times EGR stuck open and the engine shakes like a wet dog.
or is flooding or vacuum leaks max.
or the IAC is dead as most are this old. (has 2 IAC/ISC , IAC is thermal below TB, ISC is fast 200Hz solenoid idle speed controller. both must work the IAC works only cold until 150 f hits and IAC goes 100%closed hot. ISC then runs the show (idle modulated by ECM)
is the engine hot or cold or both not told. and is key fact. I bet hot as hot = closed loop idle and light cruising.
closed loop is HOT, 180f hot, and a a real scan tool shows the ECT is 180f to 200f is it does PID scan ECT show correct temp or is the thermostat dead.>?>?????
best is post all PID data, and trim. a real scan tool allows you to do all that and matters huge to lower or end all guessing and replacing good things, or putting in new parts that are in fact the wrong parts, making this super hard to diagnose.
P400 can not be ignored.
only cured. The theromo sensor on the EGR main must be clean too, or it lies and P400 hit.
is this a help me post are just story and solve is it solve please say so.?
yes EGR loves to fail on all cars with EGR, my jeep has none 1995 zero EGR> (it uses dynamic tuning to avoid EGR junk for NOX)
to prove EGR is it,
just remove the EGR vacuum hose at EGR main (rear of intake man) 96 G16B
and put a GOLF tee in the hose so it can not suck air
the #50 ID EGR tube both SST gaskets not missing or cracked sucking air. same with EGR base gasket not sucking air.
Then make sure the EGR is new or make it 100% clean so it can not stuck open, even cleaned some stick still, I put those all in the ground fill, dumps.
SOME EGR mains even the silly body cracks and sucks air.
do not allow any vacuum , hoses or EGR parts or any parts from MAF to TB to suck air ever. from the atomosphere or it goes lean lean lean and stalls or 200rpm
egr sticks open 200 to 400rpm or stalls in fact the EGR test is to see it stall.
vacuum leaks are unmetered air, means you are fooling the MAF> the air must all be metered by the MAF at all times.
if comes back consider this.
make a profile and add that is best.
200 rpm to 400 is most times EGR stuck open and the engine shakes like a wet dog.
or is flooding or vacuum leaks max.
or the IAC is dead as most are this old. (has 2 IAC/ISC , IAC is thermal below TB, ISC is fast 200Hz solenoid idle speed controller. both must work the IAC works only cold until 150 f hits and IAC goes 100%closed hot. ISC then runs the show (idle modulated by ECM)
is the engine hot or cold or both not told. and is key fact. I bet hot as hot = closed loop idle and light cruising.
closed loop is HOT, 180f hot, and a a real scan tool shows the ECT is 180f to 200f is it does PID scan ECT show correct temp or is the thermostat dead.>?>?????
best is post all PID data, and trim. a real scan tool allows you to do all that and matters huge to lower or end all guessing and replacing good things, or putting in new parts that are in fact the wrong parts, making this super hard to diagnose.
P400 can not be ignored.
only cured. The theromo sensor on the EGR main must be clean too, or it lies and P400 hit.
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