06-23-2022, 04:55 AM
Until fixkick gives a full list of things to check and do with 1996 kick, here is how I did it on 1991 vitara.
https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-high-id...2#pid13982
My next post under that shows how I built (with fixkick's info) a manual "choke" for cold start. The golf tee thingy was just for testing. I have replaced it with a moped's fuel valve. I ran the hose trough some existing hole from firewall and tied the valve under my radio.
Basic idea. IAC bleeds vacuum when cold and wont close as supposed. Kill it and figure way to give vacuum leak via manual valve.
NOTE: You probably have very different vacuum system, so don't permanently break anything until you are sure the car runs cold and you can transition to normal operation when its starting to warm up.
Basically you need plastic T-junction, similar hose and a plug (like a golf tee).
https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-high-id...1#pid14021
My cold start procedure.
- Open fuel valve 1/5
- Start
- Slowly close fuel valve until I get 1000-1400 rpm
Drive, but be aware car might stumble a little so do not expect to always get good acceleration. It clearly does not like hacking the vacuums.
When my temp gauge raises any noticeable amount I can close the valve, ok my idle might be 600 RPM at that point, but with MT box that's not an issue as long as the engine keeps running.
Not sure how IAC is with -96 kick. With -91 it would require swapping to junk yard throttle body, where the wax pellet is as bad as in mine ie its not replaceable.
https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-high-id...2#pid13982
My next post under that shows how I built (with fixkick's info) a manual "choke" for cold start. The golf tee thingy was just for testing. I have replaced it with a moped's fuel valve. I ran the hose trough some existing hole from firewall and tied the valve under my radio.
Basic idea. IAC bleeds vacuum when cold and wont close as supposed. Kill it and figure way to give vacuum leak via manual valve.
NOTE: You probably have very different vacuum system, so don't permanently break anything until you are sure the car runs cold and you can transition to normal operation when its starting to warm up.
Basically you need plastic T-junction, similar hose and a plug (like a golf tee).
https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-high-id...1#pid14021
My cold start procedure.
- Open fuel valve 1/5
- Start
- Slowly close fuel valve until I get 1000-1400 rpm
Drive, but be aware car might stumble a little so do not expect to always get good acceleration. It clearly does not like hacking the vacuums.
When my temp gauge raises any noticeable amount I can close the valve, ok my idle might be 600 RPM at that point, but with MT box that's not an issue as long as the engine keeps running.
Not sure how IAC is with -96 kick. With -91 it would require swapping to junk yard throttle body, where the wax pellet is as bad as in mine ie its not replaceable.