Hi,
Thanks for the idea of using plaster of Paris. It was quite easy to get there even the TB still fitted on the car. I also did a test plastering to a base of this kind of candle. It was easy enough to get the plaster to split and then dig it out.
Tuikku®
Basically hardest part was to get the first piece of aluminum tape to block the "3 pm" hole. I wanted to get as long as possible strip of tape there so that it has a lot of area where to stick. I managed to get about 1" continuous piece there.
All the other pieces where around 1cm which around 0.39xx". So I kept sticking them there to try to block about everything. (3M scotch aluminum tape)
I did notice on the last test run that after heating up the aluminum tape sticks very well on the IAC hole, but its still semi easily removable. Hardest part is that my fingers wont fit there easily.
Then another layer with the extra strong (3M scotch) duct tape. At least it creates isolation layer to the alu tape.. so I guess that if I have to take the plaster out, I can get it all out before I will have to take the alu tape out. So should be able to do that without getting any of the stuff into engine.
At this point I did a test startup. After dashpot stopped boosting throttle the RPM set so slow that the tachometer some times show 0 sometimes round 200.. ie it was so low that tachometer did not always even work. So best guess is its blocked enough even with tape.
And finally some plaster.
Note I did take the picture before doing some cleanup. That stuff is easy to clean up with wet tissue or some paper like that. Cleaning the bold whole was pretty easy with needless syringe and water. After that I did drove the bolt into crew hole and took it out to be sure I forced it clean.
So I am guessing that tomorrow when all that has set, I need to just make a T-junction to any of the vacuum lines and test startup with "bleed air on" and wait for warm up and block the bleed air to verify this DIY choke works.
All in all it took me 45 - 60 minutes to do this. The first testing with that play dough took 1.5 hours including creating the dough.. so 2.5 hours all in all.
And I would say that you can skip the play dough crap and just use alu + duct tape to block everything in 15-30 minutes to verify if the IAC leaks.
If cold RPM is 400RPM or below I would say it blocks enough. Then just warmup with pressing a throttle to keep RPM around 1000 until STAT opens and see where the idle stabilizes. I did wait about 10 more minutes after STAT opened to be sure I see where it stabilized. Then shutdown and restart after 5 minutes to see it still works. Saves huge amount of effort if one does not need to actually remove whole TB.
Thanks for the idea of using plaster of Paris. It was quite easy to get there even the TB still fitted on the car. I also did a test plastering to a base of this kind of candle. It was easy enough to get the plaster to split and then dig it out.
Tuikku®
Basically hardest part was to get the first piece of aluminum tape to block the "3 pm" hole. I wanted to get as long as possible strip of tape there so that it has a lot of area where to stick. I managed to get about 1" continuous piece there.
All the other pieces where around 1cm which around 0.39xx". So I kept sticking them there to try to block about everything. (3M scotch aluminum tape)
I did notice on the last test run that after heating up the aluminum tape sticks very well on the IAC hole, but its still semi easily removable. Hardest part is that my fingers wont fit there easily.
Then another layer with the extra strong (3M scotch) duct tape. At least it creates isolation layer to the alu tape.. so I guess that if I have to take the plaster out, I can get it all out before I will have to take the alu tape out. So should be able to do that without getting any of the stuff into engine.
At this point I did a test startup. After dashpot stopped boosting throttle the RPM set so slow that the tachometer some times show 0 sometimes round 200.. ie it was so low that tachometer did not always even work. So best guess is its blocked enough even with tape.
And finally some plaster.
Note I did take the picture before doing some cleanup. That stuff is easy to clean up with wet tissue or some paper like that. Cleaning the bold whole was pretty easy with needless syringe and water. After that I did drove the bolt into crew hole and took it out to be sure I forced it clean.
So I am guessing that tomorrow when all that has set, I need to just make a T-junction to any of the vacuum lines and test startup with "bleed air on" and wait for warm up and block the bleed air to verify this DIY choke works.
All in all it took me 45 - 60 minutes to do this. The first testing with that play dough took 1.5 hours including creating the dough.. so 2.5 hours all in all.
And I would say that you can skip the play dough crap and just use alu + duct tape to block everything in 15-30 minutes to verify if the IAC leaks.
If cold RPM is 400RPM or below I would say it blocks enough. Then just warmup with pressing a throttle to keep RPM around 1000 until STAT opens and see where the idle stabilizes. I did wait about 10 more minutes after STAT opened to be sure I see where it stabilized. Then shutdown and restart after 5 minutes to see it still works. Saves huge amount of effort if one does not need to actually remove whole TB.