03-22-2021, 08:08 PM
Hello,
Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
- 242000km / 150 000 miles
- Plate in engine compartment.
- TYPE: ETA01V
- LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
- No AC
(Rear window defroster broken, cant test idle with that).
- Car runs fine, I think it has almost all horses still as it can get into 130-135 km/h (80-83 mph) on highway (yeah not fun to drive
).
- Fuel consumption is good for its age 29-30 MPG. Inspector said emissions are extremely good considering car's age.
- No CEL codes, no CEL light.
New stuff related to this and other stuff I guess:
O2 sensor, 190F stat, tb hoses, brake booster hoses and booster, radiator, radiator fan clutch, engine head gasket, water pump, camshaft belt, clutch and re-machined flywheel.
Last summer we discussed about fixing high idle on another thread originally related to replacing blown brake booster. (Done).
( https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-vitara-...ent?page=2 )
After that I have done about every vacuum leak check and fix that can be done without pulling removing the TB. Due to COVID19 and restrictions car has been unused during winter. I have replaced all but 1 rubber hose that connects to the TB, its the short about 1" hose near engine. Could not change it with my fat fingers. So will change it when I remove TB, anyhow all hoses were still air tight after 30 years
.
Anyhow situation is this.
DP definetlly works. After startup 3000-3500 rpm for 5-10 seconds and then it drops to 2000+ and starts going slowly down as engine heats up.
There is 1 idle hunting condition.
Just before engine is fully warmed up something goes strange.. it will start hunting idle 2000 -> 1000 -> 2000 -> 1000 .. this last about 30-90 seconds, then idle drops to 1300 and stays there.
If I block my radiator and allow water to reach somewhere around 95C (200F) (approximation from temp gun pointed at stat housing giving ~90C () ) idle is less than 1000rpm (which is the limit for emission testing here, idle 1000 or lower or fail not caring what the tail pipe gives out).
I assume that either some TB gasket leaks, but I am more worried that its the 30 year old IAC and the rubber thingy is giving up. 2 years ago "normal" idle was 1100, now its 1300. So slowly creeping up.
Whether the car is on normal running temp (190F stat) or overheated with rad blocked, there is absolutely no reaction to adding engine load by turning blower to full blast, high beams on, seat heaters on, or even applying a bit of load via clutch or power steering. RPM goes down, no regulation. ISC does not care or is hacked.
ISC does care in one situation and you guesstimated that some CARB guy has tampered with screws. If I apply a little throttle (around 2500rpm on neutral) it will start hunting and RPM's bounce like 2500 -> 2300 -> 2500 -> 2300 and it continues for ever until you let the throttle go.
(Tampering is quite probably, someone has tampered with electrics all around the car.. then removed some of them.. there are dead and live wires that are not connected to anything... so I assume the TB is also hacked/tampered).
As I will need to anyhow order some parts from rock-auto I will also order new ISC (mine is 30 years old, so if its not bad yet, it will soon be). 2 sets of all TB gaskets in case I need to open the TB twice during fixing this issue. Not sure if I should order throttle valve position sensor.
Hoping I only need to place one order as filling in all the customs documents are nasty and time consuming as about every item has bit different tariff... and our value added tax is 24%
So now my plan is this.
I will try to return all the adjustment nuts and TB clearance to specs you have on this site and hopefully get normal idle.
I do suspect my IAC is leaking a bit which causes abnormally high idle and that is something I will not be fixing as it would require new TB and there are none
So if the IAC is shit:
1) Can I get hot idle fixed if I block the IAC port with clay or even epoxy from the TB. (Need permanent fix, not something that dissolves over time, hopefully clay would do.. easier to remove if needed).
2) Cold start needs to be hacked. Scraping windows here is a must every winter day so I would rather spend the warmup time scraping instead of manually pressing throttle.
I have 2 ideas for this.
1) Hack a jamming device on the throttle you can use during warmup. Like press a bit of throttle and then jam the pedal / cable there, release before driving / after heating up.
2) Do electronic hack to DP via Arduino or something.. like take control voltage from current DP control voltage and extend DP operating period to NN seconds, or just manual on/off switch.
Question for part 2: Do you have any idea if the DP survives prolonged periods of active usage or will it burn?
While writing this.. option 3 came into my mind.. route a cable from cabin to engine compartment and put up old type of choke cable to pull the throttle/DP handle while the car is cold. (Tho I think its quite the same as option 1)
I really don't care how it runs cold as long as it stays running until warmed up and will not run too high RPM while hacked for warmup. This is mostly hobby car or 2nd car so it's not so important that you can hit the road right after startup.
Car Info:
- 1991 Vitara MT, 2 door, G16a, 4wd.
- 242000km / 150 000 miles
- Plate in engine compartment.
- TYPE: ETA01V
- LAK625K17 (SWE, car has actually been sold in neighbor country FIN)
- No AC
(Rear window defroster broken, cant test idle with that).
- Car runs fine, I think it has almost all horses still as it can get into 130-135 km/h (80-83 mph) on highway (yeah not fun to drive
). - Fuel consumption is good for its age 29-30 MPG. Inspector said emissions are extremely good considering car's age.
- No CEL codes, no CEL light.
New stuff related to this and other stuff I guess:
O2 sensor, 190F stat, tb hoses, brake booster hoses and booster, radiator, radiator fan clutch, engine head gasket, water pump, camshaft belt, clutch and re-machined flywheel.
Last summer we discussed about fixing high idle on another thread originally related to replacing blown brake booster. (Done).
( https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-vitara-...ent?page=2 )
After that I have done about every vacuum leak check and fix that can be done without pulling removing the TB. Due to COVID19 and restrictions car has been unused during winter. I have replaced all but 1 rubber hose that connects to the TB, its the short about 1" hose near engine. Could not change it with my fat fingers. So will change it when I remove TB, anyhow all hoses were still air tight after 30 years
.Anyhow situation is this.
DP definetlly works. After startup 3000-3500 rpm for 5-10 seconds and then it drops to 2000+ and starts going slowly down as engine heats up.
There is 1 idle hunting condition.
Just before engine is fully warmed up something goes strange.. it will start hunting idle 2000 -> 1000 -> 2000 -> 1000 .. this last about 30-90 seconds, then idle drops to 1300 and stays there.
If I block my radiator and allow water to reach somewhere around 95C (200F) (approximation from temp gun pointed at stat housing giving ~90C () ) idle is less than 1000rpm (which is the limit for emission testing here, idle 1000 or lower or fail not caring what the tail pipe gives out).
I assume that either some TB gasket leaks, but I am more worried that its the 30 year old IAC and the rubber thingy is giving up. 2 years ago "normal" idle was 1100, now its 1300. So slowly creeping up.
Whether the car is on normal running temp (190F stat) or overheated with rad blocked, there is absolutely no reaction to adding engine load by turning blower to full blast, high beams on, seat heaters on, or even applying a bit of load via clutch or power steering. RPM goes down, no regulation. ISC does not care or is hacked.
ISC does care in one situation and you guesstimated that some CARB guy has tampered with screws. If I apply a little throttle (around 2500rpm on neutral) it will start hunting and RPM's bounce like 2500 -> 2300 -> 2500 -> 2300 and it continues for ever until you let the throttle go.
(Tampering is quite probably, someone has tampered with electrics all around the car.. then removed some of them.. there are dead and live wires that are not connected to anything... so I assume the TB is also hacked/tampered).
As I will need to anyhow order some parts from rock-auto I will also order new ISC (mine is 30 years old, so if its not bad yet, it will soon be). 2 sets of all TB gaskets in case I need to open the TB twice during fixing this issue. Not sure if I should order throttle valve position sensor.
Hoping I only need to place one order as filling in all the customs documents are nasty and time consuming as about every item has bit different tariff... and our value added tax is 24%
So now my plan is this.
I will try to return all the adjustment nuts and TB clearance to specs you have on this site and hopefully get normal idle.
I do suspect my IAC is leaking a bit which causes abnormally high idle and that is something I will not be fixing as it would require new TB and there are none
So if the IAC is shit:
1) Can I get hot idle fixed if I block the IAC port with clay or even epoxy from the TB. (Need permanent fix, not something that dissolves over time, hopefully clay would do.. easier to remove if needed).
2) Cold start needs to be hacked. Scraping windows here is a must every winter day so I would rather spend the warmup time scraping instead of manually pressing throttle.
I have 2 ideas for this.
1) Hack a jamming device on the throttle you can use during warmup. Like press a bit of throttle and then jam the pedal / cable there, release before driving / after heating up.
2) Do electronic hack to DP via Arduino or something.. like take control voltage from current DP control voltage and extend DP operating period to NN seconds, or just manual on/off switch.
Question for part 2: Do you have any idea if the DP survives prolonged periods of active usage or will it burn?
While writing this.. option 3 came into my mind.. route a cable from cabin to engine compartment and put up old type of choke cable to pull the throttle/DP handle while the car is cold. (Tho I think its quite the same as option 1)
I really don't care how it runs cold as long as it stays running until warmed up and will not run too high RPM while hacked for warmup. This is mostly hobby car or 2nd car so it's not so important that you can hit the road right after startup.