1997 Sidekick Sport

[fixkick]

I'm a newbie, but I have been reading and trying to absorb a lot! I just acquire a 1997 sidekick sport with 199,000 miles.  
According to the PO, it started overheating (what proof of that?)
and after new thermostat (several), ONLY the correct J18 thermostat work , NO THERE as this is a reverse flow thermostat and the ECT is on the other side of the engine and will in fact read way hotter than any G16 made, I will tell you the numbers from the book later)

new radiator, new water pump, and new fan clutch, he parked the vehicle.  I am not familiar with these engines at all!
the only tricks on this engine is that reverse flow and ECT location not the SAME PLACE:
Trick #2 is the metal tube to side of water pump housing , must never be restricted, any ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM.\


I trailered the vehicle home, added water (you meant 50% Coolant AF)to the radiator, letting the car idle with front on incline.  I idles in the drive and drove around the neighborhood. 
The temp really didn't reach the center point of the gauge, the gauge is not an instrument ever, it only lets you know, (after owning car long time) today it is much hotter than normal.

so I "cleaned" the gauge sensor and turned on the heater.  The gauge worked as should, but didn't overheat.  I do not want to run engine before I determine cause.

there are 2 ways to overheat, parked idling for and hour, or up hill flogged hard at full power to  the wheels.


There is not any water in the oil, that I can tell.  After running the vehicle, and cooling, I do have to add coolant.  Staring the engine, observing the coolant flow, no bubbles at the initial startup.  After about 15 seconds the radiator does bubble over. (not good that unless , new coolant all changed out, and system not burped)

I assume this is a head gasket issue?  I do have a check engine code. (WHAT DTC IS THIS)

It appears the engine has been maintained, hoses look good and do not look like original.  PCV valve looks like it was changed at some point and air cleaner is in good shape.  I do not notice a clatter in the engine, but my hearing is not the best.

I plan to do a major tune-up, replacing sensors and components that look like they have been in vehicle for years.
linder
Any recommendations to check or change? 
Should I do a ring job because of mileage?  NO IF ALL 4 READ 199psI Warm hot engine. and new rings will not seat on any used worn cylinder walls.
I imagine the timing chain tensioners need checking. (as always this old)

Thanks, this is a great forum!

Hoopt

overheating, signs, some . real Evidence. not told yet or see?
AF 50% coolant landing on the ground parked hot engine and idling too long, even a 1 hour test. parked,
The fan most blow air first. that thermostatic fan when that hot or it is bad.
the dash gauge will go way too high.
engine pinging, (too hot)
lost power
violent out gassing of RAD to overflow tank is  stop engine fast event.
the scan tool will show way over 200F,  even 240f,  (more later) because the thermstat is up front and ECT is in the rear. so runs even 40F hotter or more, even more  flogged hard up hill.
the dash temp meter is a toy ,only, no numbers on it.

the thermostat must not be G16 , or installed backward  and bleeder hole must be top.

see ECT sensor here, (2 in one, , one for ECU and one for dash gauge)  see this link to after the 2.3L stopped running to hot. (new RAD bigger) but shows correct temps for both H18,j20 and J23, with 200F stat.
https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-2-3-doh...emp?page=3


look here at the stat , it is backwards, after all the water goes backwards direction.
the only why for this to work is tube 22 magic.  no small hose can be blocked here, or heater core too. nor that tricky bypass hose blocked.
as you can see pipe 22, feeds hot water back to the base wax pellet of the STAT, so  it can regulate correctly if not HELL TO PAY here.